Wind noise

[CloudCity]

Did you also put tape all the way down the sides of the windshield? Air can get in there on a poor install too and buffet around inside the a-pillar.
Long shot but fold your mirrors as you're driving and see if they are creating turbulent air. How do your rubber door seals that fit flush against the body look?

 

[KraziAzn]

Did you also put tape all the way down the sides of the windshield? Air can get in there on a poor install too and buffet around inside the a-pillar.
Long shot but fold your mirrors as you're driving and see if they are creating turbulent air. How do your rubber door seals that fit flush against the body look?

I went back and double checked the duck-tape. I noticed I did miss a spot as shown in the pic below. I taped up that area and the wind noise is gone. Cheap fix and easy fix.

 

[dchilds]

So what’s the permanent fix?

I went back and double checked the duck-tape. I noticed I did miss a spot as shown in the pic below. I taped up that area and the wind noise is gone. Cheap fix and easy fix.

 

[Ayune]

So the seam between the side rubber seal and the body metal was the culprit?

 

[KraziAzn]

So what’s the permanent fix?

I don't know for sure, maybe a new rubber seal? I assume P.O. installer reused the old ones. I looked at your pictures, the top seals on your windshield does not look as tight as mine though. So it can be that too.

So the seam between the side rubber seal and the body metal was the culprit?

Exactly.

 

[mdcoa]

I’ve got pretty pronounced wind sounds and a nice whistle that starts right around 60mph...looking forward to taping stuff and seeing what is the deal. Windshield clearly not original....but I huge gaps at the top either.

 

[CloudCity]

This is up to each of you to decide if you would want to use it or not but I've had good luck with "flowable silicone" on an old car that had good glass but the seals shrunk with age so I didn't want to risk breaking the impossible to find curved glass so used this product. It's very thin and does what it's name suggests, flows for a while before it begins to set up. This means you can squirt a little and let it find the gaps to fill. Large gaps would allow it through so you need to know somewhat what your attacking with it first.
The reason I say its up to you to decide is that a factory rubber seal is always best, silicone can be hard to remove later such as when fitting a new windshield, and there may be other disadvantages to using silicone on a windshield but it worked in the case of that old car.

 

[Pyrenees]

Just to add to the thread, I also get some wind noise on my 01 LX, but since I've read all these windshield horror story threads I've decided to leave it alone since it doesn't leak

 

[mdcoa]

Ha, probably good advice—we tend to have a giant rock hit our windshields annually so maybe I’ll just wait for that to happen and then be very picky about who installs new glass....wonder if my insurance would cover genuine Toyota glass installation by the dealer....seems that’s really the right answer on a truck of this value, provided dealers will even do that.

 

[TLEXAS]

Been there done that with my windscreen a year or so ago on my 100 series cruiser. Had rust spots starting at the top of my screen and lots of wind noise after poor installation of last screen (dropped too low) and tired seals (mostly tired seals was the problem on the sides). Cracked screen again six months later so had all the rust attended to properly by panelbeater and asked screen installer to obtain and install new seals also upgraded my screen to a Lexus whisper screen with top tint and now better than new with a noticable drop in noise probably 5-6 decibels. Toyota dealer had no idea about different windscreens being available for LX100 & LC100 they just go by their parts book. Fortunately my local windscreen shop are clever lads and ordered the upgraded screen for me through their supplier. Further fortune prevailed as the windscreen cost was covered under my glass inclusive insurance policy. If you trawl around this website and perservere you will find all sorts of ways and means to keep your cruiser cruising and in some cases such as I found with the upgraded Lexas screen improve on the original.

 

[MongooseGA]

I guess I'm lucky,my windshield is good. However, I get some wind noise from my driver's window, somewhere toward the top near the seals. If I push my finger outward against the glass while driving, I can hear the sound increase/decrease as I change pressure. All the trim looks to be in shape, anyone else had this issue? I believe it to be more of the 'door to frame' seal than the 'window to door' seal.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

I went back and double checked the duck-tape. I noticed I did miss a spot as shown in the pic below. I taped up that area and the wind noise is gone. Cheap fix and easy fix.

I'd use speed tape over duct tape. Speed tape is a foil and is used pretty extensively on aircraft fuselage as temporary repairs or gaps and even secondary structures.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-Foil-Tape...TF8&qid=1543703337&sr=8-5&keywords=speed+tape

Otherwise, I'd go with a silicon and call it a day.

 

[CloudCity]

I guess I'm lucky,my windshield is good. However, I get some wind noise from my driver's window, somewhere toward the top near the seals. If I push my finger outward against the glass while driving, I can hear the sound increase/decrease as I change pressure. All the trim looks to be in shape, anyone else had this issue? I believe it to be more of the 'door to frame' seal than the 'window to door' seal.

Get some Shin-etsu silicone grease and apply to the inner edges of the rubber seal where the glass contacts along each side when it's rolled up. You can use a q-tip or just your finger but use sparingly and wipe away the excess. It's white so wipe away until you only see clear. I usually suggest avoiding putting on the very top section because that will remain on the top edge of the glass when it's lowered but you can wipe this excess off the glass and rubber with a cloth. Also go ahead and put a thin film on your door body seals and wipe excess off. This is commonly used on many cars to help revitalize the seals and very often makes squeaks and minor noises go away as air is blocked. It's also popular for sunroof seals that leak, squeak, or buffet. It won't work miracles on really degraded seals that are cracked and dry but for those just starting to age it really makes them like new again.

 

[shevy77]

Been there done that with my windscreen a year or so ago on my 100 series cruiser. Had rust spots starting at the top of my screen and lots of wind noise after poor installation of last screen (dropped too low) and tired seals (mostly tired seals was the problem on the sides). Cracked screen again six months later so had all the rust attended to properly by panelbeater and askeo screen installer to obtain and install new seals also upgraded my screen to a Lexus whisper screen with top tint and now better than new with a noticable drop in noise probably 5-6 decibels. Toyota dealer had no idea about different windscreens being available for LX100 & LC100 they just go by their parts book. Fortunately my local windscreen shop are clever lads and ordered the upgraded screen for me through their supplier. Further fortune prevailed as the windscreen cost was covered under my glass inclusive insurance policy. If you trawl around this website and perservere you will find all sorts of ways and means to keep your cruiser cruising and in some cases such as I found with the upgraded Lexas screen improve on the original.

I would love to see the windshield bug (label at bottom of your screen) from your quiet install.

 

[TLEXAS]

 

[TLEXAS]

Just finished a Sunday afternoon scrub ready for the working week

 

[TLEXAS]

 

[dchilds]

I made some progress this evening. I started off by taping the two sides of the windshield - from glass to paint. In other words, you couldn’t see the trim piece at all. I also taped the top in the same fashion. I took the advice above and used some of the aluminum tape. I’m not sure if the type of tape made a difference but I had some on hand.

I took it for a drive and there still seemed to be some noise - though it wasn’t as much of a “moan” anymore. It was more of a faint whistle. I went home and took off my wiper blades. Drove around. Noise unchanged. Taped off the lower area between the hood and the glass. Noise unchanged. Pulled that tape off as well as the top piece of tape (leaving only the sides). Noise unchanged. I took the side pieces off - leaving none. The moan was back along with the whistle. I replaced my double width layer with a single width layer that does not touch the glass. The moan is still gone but the faint whistle remains.

If you’re following along - this is progress! The moan (most annoying part of the wknd noise) is eliminated by taping the gap between the a pillar and the trim : like so

I’m betting the holes in my a pillars are drilled out and the rivets the installer used were too small.

 

[dchilds]

Now I just need to find a more permanent fix to this noise and hunt down the whistle. Assuming that is possible.

 

[AZSlim]

Now I just need to find a more permanent fix to this noise and hunt down the whistle. Assuming that is possible.

Re wistle, try driving with your driver's side window down. Mine has a wistle above 50 that comes from the pivot between the mirror housing and the part that attaches to the body. I can place a finger in front of that pivot while at speed and it stops. Folding in the mirror slightly also stops it.

My truck was repainted at some point, this could be a related artifact.