Whos got the H55F Here???
- Thread starter Boston Mangler
- Start date
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all FJ60 have split cases. my 9/85 has a 34mm idler shaft and is the long version with spacer. the plastic piece is not an oil squirter, it's a funnel that captures gear oil slinging around the case and drips it on to the 5th gear mainshaft, it just clips into an existing recess...and is completely independent of size of idler shaft. apparently FJ62 split cases don't need the oiler? I have no direct experience there. I bought a brand new H55F with oiler and shift lever...IMHO, you want to use the 5-speed lever. it sits closer to you, the plastic cup/ballend fits into the shift rail as designed.
your new crawl ratio is 30% lower (41:1) than stock, which is killer (maybe the best reason to buy the tranny!), and the 15% overdrive is perfect for a 2F. with an FJ60, you already have the splitcase, so it makes NO sense to buy a used tranny...why go for a long warranty you might need vs. a short warranty you almost certainly won't?
I run 33x12.50's, and first gear is NOT too short with those tires...it gets you going with less clutch slippage, which is good in my book. I've driven an HJ60 (2H diesel) with stock tires and H55F, and first is too short with 29's.
the H55F is the single best thing I've done to the truck...if and only if I had a lot more power, I'd probably consider an NV4500. I put an NP203 doubler behind it, so now I'm 82:1 with the 3.73's. it's dead simple with the spacer'd-tranny trucks, and not much harder with the short-tranny...using later driveshafts is good advice.
Steve
your new crawl ratio is 30% lower (41:1) than stock, which is killer (maybe the best reason to buy the tranny!), and the 15% overdrive is perfect for a 2F. with an FJ60, you already have the splitcase, so it makes NO sense to buy a used tranny...why go for a long warranty you might need vs. a short warranty you almost certainly won't?
I run 33x12.50's, and first gear is NOT too short with those tires...it gets you going with less clutch slippage, which is good in my book. I've driven an HJ60 (2H diesel) with stock tires and H55F, and first is too short with 29's.
the H55F is the single best thing I've done to the truck...if and only if I had a lot more power, I'd probably consider an NV4500. I put an NP203 doubler behind it, so now I'm 82:1 with the 3.73's. it's dead simple with the spacer'd-tranny trucks, and not much harder with the short-tranny...using later driveshafts is good advice.
Steve
'Nother thing to consider with the MAF combo deals: the t-case that normally comes with the H55F is a 2:1 case while the USA version is a 2.3:1 case. Using the combo deal does not get you all the benefits of using your existing case gearing-wise.
Kevin: I helped Mark W. on Long Island do this swap into his FJ60. Pretty sweet deal, bolted up nice and works well on the trails at Paragon. We did have issue with the bolts that hold the t-case to the trans being too long and hitting one of the gears or something in the trans making it hard to shift into and out of 5th. A couple minutes to grind the bolts a hair shorter took care of that (no I don't remember which bolts). Not sure how common that issue is but it's certainly not a deal killer... This swap is great for a DD/trail vehicle.
Good luck!
Nick Jennings
Kevin: I helped Mark W. on Long Island do this swap into his FJ60. Pretty sweet deal, bolted up nice and works well on the trails at Paragon. We did have issue with the bolts that hold the t-case to the trans being too long and hitting one of the gears or something in the trans making it hard to shift into and out of 5th. A couple minutes to grind the bolts a hair shorter took care of that (no I don't remember which bolts). Not sure how common that issue is but it's certainly not a deal killer... This swap is great for a DD/trail vehicle.
Good luck!
Nick Jennings
- Thread starter
- #64
salvage 60 said:
Thanks for those pics. What year/month is your rig and bellhousing, you are the first person yet that has mentioned this mod. Where did your H55 come from?
Thanks
- Thread starter
- #65
zebrabeefj40 said:
Thanks Nick!
- Thread starter
- #66
theSherpa said:
Are you 100% on that? I have been told by many that the 60's after 7/85 have the 38mm idler. Which is what i sure hope is in mine because that is the rebuild kit i ordered.
Does your tcase has a 4x4 indicator light plug? If so, then from what i have been told by quite a few people, it should be a 38mm idler.
My .02
Boston Mangler said:
Why don't you crawl under the rig and measure the idler shaft??? It should only take you 30 seconds to solve this mystery...
- Thread starter
- #68
cruiseroutfit said:
Cause that would make WAY too much sense and be too simple! LOL
I honestly never really into into this tcase. Anyone got a pic of what i should measure? Can it be done with the D-Shaft on?
THANKS
- Thread starter
- #69
Hey Kurt, i just checked your website for Tcase rebuild kits and see the following:
Split Case 8/80'-4/85' FJ60/70 -$170.00
Part# TC8085
Split Case 4/86'-1/90' Manual Only -$170.00
Part# TC8690
Mine is in the middle of those applications, as it is 7/85
Do i have some oddity that could be either???
Split Case 8/80'-4/85' FJ60/70 -$170.00
Part# TC8085
Split Case 4/86'-1/90' Manual Only -$170.00
Part# TC8690
Mine is in the middle of those applications, as it is 7/85
Do i have some oddity that could be either???
Boston Mangler said:
GET UNDER YOUR RIG AND MEASURE THE IDLER SHAFT!!!
Yes, it can be done with the drive-shaft on. In the middle of your T/C there is a shaft that sticks out the back (under 1/2"), it is held in place by a retainer bolt and plate. That is the shaft you need to measure. The reason I have a vacany between 4/85 & 4/86 is because I have seen trucks in that range with 34mm & 38mm, so no gaurantees... thus I have them measure and send them the correct kit.
PS... thanks for reminding me about the void in my application range, I need to describe that better on my website.
- Thread starter
- #71
Gotcha!
s***, i already ordered my tcase kit thinking i had the 38mm. Gotta cross my fingers and grab the measuring tape!
Thanks Kurt
p.s is that the famed "Rufus" from bumfights on your avatar?
s***, i already ordered my tcase kit thinking i had the 38mm. Gotta cross my fingers and grab the measuring tape!
Thanks Kurt
p.s is that the famed "Rufus" from bumfights on your avatar?
Boston Mangler said:
Yes sir!
Its funny how many customers have asked me "ummm, your avitatar... is that by chance you?"
- Thread starter
- #73
Awesome!
Good stuff that DVD is!
Good stuff that DVD is!
So... what size idler you got?
- Thread starter
- #75
cruiseroutfit said:So... what size idler you got?
No Clue!
Been raining like s*** and i need to get a metric measuring device and to be honest, i still dont know what i am measuring!
Boston Mangler said:
As soon as you get under there you will... it is right smack in the middle of the back side of the case...
- Thread starter
- #77
hey kurt (or others), is this the idler shaft circled in red?
if so, it appears to be a 34mm shaft, would you agree from this poor pic that it is 34mm?
thanks
if so, it appears to be a 34mm shaft, would you agree from this poor pic that it is 34mm?
thanks
That is the idler (good job) and it looks 34mm to me...
- Thread starter
- #79
Thanks Kurt
I appreciate the help! I am learning new stuff everyday about this rig.
Sucks i ordered a 38mm kit! DOH! Learn from mistakes i guess!
Thanks again
I appreciate the help! I am learning new stuff everyday about this rig.
Sucks i ordered a 38mm kit! DOH! Learn from mistakes i guess!
Thanks again
Boston Mangler said:
Better to find that out now rather than when you are trying to get a 38mm idler bearing to fit into the 34mm Idler gear...
Or when your pounding a 38mm idlershaft into a 34mm Split T-case...Was the kit you purchased listed as the correct kit for your year FJ60?