When to Speedi Sleeve ?

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Spike Strip

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When to Speedi Sleeve Crank Pulley?

I've never installed a speedi-sleeve before, and I'm not sure when they're necessary... I know about the "catching your fingernail on the groove" test, but that's kind of subjective...

How's this crank pulley look?

I bought the sleeve already, so even if I don't need it, does it hurt to install ?

Speedi-Sleeve (SKF) Part # 99177 if anyone needs the number :)

Thanks.

CrankPully0004_1.jpg
 
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I would sleeve it. It is easy to do, and it is all apart now. No reason to assemble it then find a leak.


Dynosoar:zilla:
 
Done.

Thanks, all.
Sleeve0001.jpg
 
I bet you a dollar it still leaks. I've only seen one speedy sleeve work. They almost always never go on straight. Most of the time you can get away with 6 or 800 grit emery cloth and give it a good scuff. Load the seal with grease and smear the surface with grease and put it back together.
 
I used some non-hardening sealer to install, but what happens when they don't go on straight ?
 
I used some non-hardening sealer to install, but what happens when they don't go on straight ?


They leak. I installed one on a balancer (SBC), the drum e-break on my FJ40, and on my Dad's Spicer 18 t-case. Oddly enough the e-break was the only one that didn't continue to leak. Marlin confirmed this theory for me a couple years later. If it's that bad replace the part. I would have considered yours to be in great shape. The sealer may help as long as it doesn't break down when exposed to oil. Think of a speedy sleave as a bypass tunnel beween the seal and the flange/yoke that gear oil can sneek under.
 
I personally have used a SS approx 5 times over the years, with zero failures.
I'm juss sayin!
 
Yeah, I was pretty careful when I installed it, using Permatex 2 Gasket sealant. I also sleeved the t'case rear output flange.

That type of G/S is supposed to work well for metal to metal and it resists chemicals.

Well, if they leak, I call CDan. ....

Thanks!

S.
permatex.jpg
 
I always do them with green loctite. Never had a leak.


Dynosoar:zilla:
 
Thread revival. I am about to sleeve this crank pulley shaft with the same SKF sleeve listed above (it also seems to be what SOR sells).

Obviously there are deep ugly grooves on it but it spun pretty true before it all came apart. The sleeve is deep enough to cover all the grooves with some room to spare.

Instructions recommend filling any deep grooves before the sleeve goes on. The sleeve gets installed before the filler sets.

Here's what I have laying around:

Loctite 2-part metal epoxy (cures hard)
Permatex #1 (cures hard)
Permatex #2 (non-hardening)
Permatex aviation form-a-gasket (good stuff but maybe too runny to use for filling?)
Toyota FIPG (non-hardening)
Plus numerous variations on the same theme (Ultra Copper, etc)

@Spike Strip What would you guys use?

Pictures:

image1.jpeg
image0 (1).jpeg
 
I've never used a filler but prolly not a bad idea, particularly since those grooves look so deep. Most people now use Loctite red 640 or 6400 which loctite says is a 'Sleeve Retainer'. Mine has been fine with no leaks but on retrospect, the groove on mine was so minimal, I shouldn't have sleeved it, just moved the seal a little so it was contacting a different spot on the balancer.

If you use a metal epoxy filler, I'm guessing you'd have to install the sleeve while the filler was still pliable, otherwise you'll have to file or turn it to get it true ... Dunno, I've never had to do that... Youtube may have vids on it.

I'd certainly install a new OE seal (well greased) at the same time.

One is up to 350* other to 400*


1654373729043.png


1654373714471.png
 
This is what mine looked like, I diced decided against the SS but I was able to source a new OEM part 🤷‍♂️
1654374788110.png
 
Sleeve Retainer! What will they think of next?

I will still use something thicker for the fill. Maybe the Permatex #2. I am trying to keep the very thin sleeve from morphing to any of the grooves.

The instructions for the sleeve expressly state to install the sleeve before the filler sets, and clean it off at the bottom where excess gets pushed.

Did you make a cut in the flange before you installed it, and then peeled it off once it was in place? I know it was a long time ago... consider this a mental exercise.

@Broski I would buy new OEM if it was available. Looks like you've got an 80 series. Can't even get new aftermarket for the 60 anymore. Long story but I bought a "good" used one and while the shaft was better than what's pictured, it had a wobble once installed.
 
Did you make a cut in the flange before you installed it, and then peeled it off once it was in place? I know it was a long time ago... consider this a mental exercise.


It was difficult to get that shoulder off. I did not cut it before install, but probably a good idea. I had to use a diagonal cutter to clip it, on opposite sides, then needle nose to peel it off, like opening an old can of sardines.
 
I chased a similar issue here: [3FE] Main crank pulley keeps walking, time for engine rebuild? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/3fe-main-crank-pulley-keeps-walking-time-for-engine-rebuild.1272265/

What the mechanic and I found when trying a speedisleeve was a fitment issue of the sleeve being several MM off of spec, too large diameter for the pulley. My leak ended up being fixed by a new pulley and OEM Toyota seal.

I don't know if everyone has run into this issue, but I thought I'd add my experience just in case.
 
You might go to all the trouble trying to sleeve the deeply grooved thingy only to discover a year or so later that the rivets holding the whole balancer together are failing and the entire thing is falling apart.

Your harmonic balancer is talking to you (loudly).
I’ll interpret what he’s saying:

“Replace Me!!!”
 
You might go to all the trouble trying to sleeve the deeply grooved thingy only to discover a year or so later that the rivets holding the whole balancer together are failing and the entire thing is falling apart.

Your harmonic balancer is talking to you (loudly).
I’ll interpret what he’s saying:

“Replace Me!!!”
The rubber is disintegrating as well
 
I hear you all on the replacement/rebuild. It just isn’t easy these days. New OEM is long gone. Used is up to around $650. I bought a “good used” and it has a wobble. Dale Mfg (the rebuilder in Oregon) is closed for all of June, so that puts me 6 weeks out on a rebuild. And he (or any rebuilder) does not deal with the shaft part anyway. Old cars!
 
The Aussie aftermarket HBs are very stout (Rockauto), but they're now expensive...
 

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