Wheel Spacer Questions...

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@MTKID I LOVE those OMF rings! Did you have to send the wheel in to get those fitted, or were they bolt on since the Rock Warrior ring is removable?

Thank you!

They have to be sent in. They machine off the outer lip and weld on their own ring and ship back with the outer ring and hardware. I needed to also run bead spacers so the outer ring wasn't overly flexed. Each tire bead is different. I've been sending in one wheel at a time to accomplish this with no downtime. Three down, two to go.
 
As far as a functional advantage, I was always felt the least amount of spacer meant the least amount of scrub steer...
Least is not always better. If you want the same "scrub radius" as stock... and want to run larger diameter tires, you'll have to add spacers and/or change the offset of your wheels.

Scrub radius - Wikipedia
 
Least is not always better. If you want the same "scrub radius" as stock... and want to run larger diameter tires, you'll have to add spacers and/or change the offset of your wheels.

Scrub radius - Wikipedia

I did forget how the tire diameter effects the intersection point at the bottom of the tire for scrub steer. Thank you for that reminder.

Do you happen to know where I may be now running the RW wheel and a 37" tire (that measures 36" mounted) with the 3/4" spacer? Is there free software or a spreadsheet for calculating this?

Edit: I see the calculator linked at the bottom of the Wiki page. I'll have to try to figure that out when I have more time.
 
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@MTKID was any trimming of the lugs required to fit the 3/4" spacers? This was one other concern I had with going shorter.

@hoser that's a good point on scrub radius. In my case I'm only going up to 33's, so I'm thinking that 3/4" may be sufficient and 1.25" may be overkill, but I have no math to back this up. Any further feedback you would like to offer on this subject would be greatly appreciated.
 
@MTKID You have another factor in your calculations.... by adding the outer beadlocks, you've also changed your wheel offset. Generally, adding beadlocks will add ~1" to your wheel width (YMMV). So, if your wheels originally had a +50mm offset and then adding 1" to the outer width and you'll have the effective offset of ~+37mm.

Add your 3/4" spacer and you'll have an effective offset of ~+18mm.

@txgringo I don't think there is one optimal scrub radius but rather an acceptable range. The scrub radius is personal preference. It seems, making the tire fit w/o rubbing takes precedence over scrub radius (within acceptable reason).
 
@MTKID was any trimming of the lugs required to fit the 3/4" spacers? This was one other concern I had with going shorter.

@hoser that's a good point on scrub radius. In my case I'm only going up to 33's, so I'm thinking that 3/4" may be sufficient and 1.25" may be overkill, but I have no math to back this up. Any further feedback you would like to offer on this subject would be greatly appreciated.

For reference, I'm running RW wheels and BORA 1" spacers without issue. The part on the wheel that mates with the hub is hollow (see link). OE studs are longer and will stick past the spacer itself, but the stud will sit in the hollow area of the wheel.

The only concern with going to a 3/4" spacer is how much clearance there is for the hub cap. The 1" spacer is pretty close, not sure if 3/4" will clear without massaging the dust cap.

Wheels: 17" Tundra 5-lug Rock Warrior wheels (Reno, NV)
 
I really wanted to stick to the 1", but :princess:'s tires are bad and I need to get these RWs and the new tires on stat, so I just called up Slee and ordered a set of 1.25 Spidertrax. If the 1" BORAs were available on the shelf, I'd have gone that route as I think the 1.25" is more than she needs for 33's, but I can't wait 3 weeks for them to get here. I called Slee a few minutes after 5PM and Christo picked up and took my order right away. It's always a pleasure dealing with Slee.
 
I have the Slee (made by Spidertrax) 1.25" set. @geanes pic above is an accurate look at how they fit. Stick with Spidertrax or Bora spacers. This is not a mod you want to cheap out on.
I'm looking at these for my 2000 FJ100 and about to order the front ones in 1.25". Did you need to trim your stock lugs? Bora says loctite voids warranty, which I don't really care about, but I've always thought blue loctite was a little extra insurance and not a bad idea. Thoughts on the loctite?
 
I've got a 2000 FJ100 running Tundra 18s and 275/70/18 stock wheels....I need a little more clearance from the UCA
For someone who's successfully done it, Just a few questions about the Bora 1.25" front spacers:
1. Did you have to trim lugs?
2. What was the torque value (100 ft.lbs?)
3. Bora says not to use loctite, but I thought blue (never red) loctite was a good practice

Thanks in advance

Bonus question: - Do the slee/spydertrax spacers also have the cool indents for the hub bolts?
 
I've got a 2000 FJ100 running Tundra 18s and 275/70/18 stock wheels....I need a little more clearance from the UCA
For someone who's successfully done it, Just a few questions about the Bora 1.25" front spacers:
1. Did you have to trim lugs?
2. What was the torque value (100 ft.lbs?)
3. Bora says not to use loctite, but I thought blue (never red) loctite was a good practice

Thanks in advance

Bonus question: - Do the slee/spydertrax spacers also have the cool indents for the hub bolts?

You do not have to trim the lugs, factory spec is what I used at 97 ft.lbs, no locktite needed, just re-torque after 50 miles or so. The spidertrax Slee spacers are the same as the Boras as far as the machining.
 
1.25 with rock warriors and 315/70/17s

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These are 1.25” BORA alum wheel spacers specific for UZJ100 or Lx470 to clear the nuts on fhe plate -yes it cleared 100%.

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I still used red (permanent) loctite thread locker and was @115 lbs ft on the 1/2 torque wrench.
 
Just to confirm, are spacers being installed due to preference in stance or to be able to add wheel caps in the front of the rig?
 
Spacers are needed to run Rock Warrior wheels, or to put wider tires on stock like 305/65/18. It also widen the track, stressing out wheel bearings and suspension components...but it looks great and i'm willing to make that sacrifice
 
I have 2" Tundra spacers from Amazon ($100), machined out front ones to fit hub bolts. I'm a mechanical engineer so I drew it up in Solidworks and had them machined at work. You can see where the machining was done as there is no black anodize on that area. Running 35s on Tundra 20" wheels. I also ran them with the stock 16" with 33s. I have 1.5" lift, 1" body lift, front pinch weld mod (and a little more lol), dremel cut front LX470 bumper for clearance.. Took it to Baja last August no problems off roading.

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so I’ve been reading as much as I can about slee/spidertrax vs bora and they seem the same except slee are about $100 more expensive...

is there any reason to go slee over bora for the exact same product?
 
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Slee vs Bora.... Slee usually gets your order right the first time.o_O
 
so I’ve been reading as much as I can about slee/spidertrax vs bora and they seem the same except slee are about $100 more expensive...

is there any reason to go slee over bora for the exact same product?
I'm sure Slee is a great company, but they resell SpiderTrax, also a great company...hence the markup. I bought directly from Bora, and got exactly what I ordered, no problems...the cutouts for the front hubs are a nice piece of machining. For the front, I spent the higher price for 1.25" spacers, but the rear are same as a Tundra, and I'm running Tundra wheels, and just picked up some black aluminums elsewhere. Haven't put the rears on yet.
 

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