Wheel Bearings - When to replace / repack (1 Viewer)

Oakleyguy

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@hankinid, which Amsoil Greases are you running for the spindle bearings? I'm looking at the NLGI 2 MP for wheel bearing and then their Offroad Calcium Sulfonate # 1 for the spindle bearings.

EDIT:
From another post it looks like you're using Synthetic Polymeric Off-Road Grease, NLGI #1

Which product are you using on the wheel bearings?
 
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Hello,
First post here. Recently purchased a 2000 Land Cruiser and am in the process of catching up on past maintenance.

I have a few questions regarding front wheel bearings, after doing some reading on the board. Currently there is no play in the wheels, however, the car has 100,000 miles on it and I'm about to get the rotors and pads replaced with the PowerStop kit. The bearings have never been replaced or repacked, from what I can tell.

- Waste of money to repack or replace if they're not loose and there are no other symptoms? Or good preventative while rotors are off?
- What would be a reasonable estimate of additional time / labor cost if rotors and pads are already off to replace or repack bearings?
- If I was to replace rather than repack, what parts would be required? OEM Timkin / Koyo bearings and seals from CruiserDan? Anything other small parts?

Thanks in advance
you do not really need to replace them - seriously they are lifetime bearings - you think I am crazy - unless they are broken then yes you need to replace entire assembly not just bearings , but it is rare case. What you need to do , is to wash them in lithium soap and re-pack them with a new Lithium Bearing Grease you supposed to do that every 50K miles for the front
 

Oakleyguy

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According to the FSM, Wheel bearings are "Non-reusable," take that for what you will.

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hankinid

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hankinid

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According to the FSM, Wheel bearings are "Non-reusable," take that for what you will.
The "non-reusable" assumes that a visual inspection of the bearing and races shows they need replacement...e.g. discoloration due to over-heating, etc...once again, there's nothing special about an LX or LC v. any other vehicle using similar bearings.

The FSM also advises to replace all cone washers; which I'd debate assuming they haven't lost their spring. Lock washers can be reused if you use a portion that hasn't already been bent.

Steve
 
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I use #2 M1 synthetic on both spindle and wheel bearings, yep I know the FSM says use #1 on the spindles.
I am the other way around: I use 3751 NLGI #1 from Lubrication Engineers on both :) yes, it is that good..
 

abuck99

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Replaced these today; old ones were stretched out 3+mm & pretty loose on axle and needed to go up to 2.4.

For reference the gap on the new ring is 5mm, & the gap on the old ring is 8.5mm.

(BTW the Craftsman snap ring tool works like a champ)

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Hey all, wanted to bump this thread instead of starting a new one.

I have a question about when to replace the bearings as opposed to repacking them.

From the research I have done, if there is a "whining" noise above 40 mph it's possible that the wheel bearings are the culprit of the noise and front end vibration. But.. how do you narrow down whether another component is causing the vibration or whether it is the actual wheel bearing itself failing? I've never personally held a "failing" wheel bearing so wondering what I should look for.

Thanks!
 
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Turn the rotor by hand. Do you feel it catch, or the motion isn't smooth. Your bearings are too far gone. Even the slightest "rough" spot you feel when turning means the bearing isn't good for sure anymore.

I had a roaring noise in the bearings. Felt the rough spot on the bearing when turning the rotor. WHen I took the bearing out, visually it still looked A-ok. New bearings solved the roar. They weren't loose or anything when most mechanics do the take the wheel at 12 and 6 test.

Hey all, wanted to bump this thread instead of starting a new one.

I have a question about when to replace the bearings as opposed to repacking them.

From the research I have done, if there is a "whining" noise above 40 mph it's possible that the wheel bearings are the culprit of the noise and front end vibration. But.. how do you narrow down whether another component is causing the vibration or whether it is the actual wheel bearing itself failing? I've never personally held a "failing" wheel bearing so wondering what I should look for.

Thanks!
 
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Turn the rotor by hand. Do you feel it catch, or the motion isn't smooth. Your bearings are too far gone. Even the slightest "rough" spot you feel when turning means the bearing isn't good for sure anymore.

I had a roaring noise in the bearings. Felt the rough spot on the bearing when turning the rotor. WHen I took the bearing out, visually it still looked A-ok. New bearings solved the roar. They weren't loose or anything when most mechanics do the take the wheel at 12 and 6 test.
Thanks... I did notice that the motion wasn't smooth when turning the rotor with the flange removed. Might be worth just replacing it for ease of mind.
 
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This SK snap ring plier tool is well worth it ! - Amazon product
Also wish I had purchased Slee's spindle lubrication tool before I started.


If you want a bolt to pull on the axle spindle a good one is at the front top of the radiator.

I just used both these exact tools yesterday for the same job, worked great. Also, @TheForger axle puller tool helped me squeeze in the next bigger snap ring.
 

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