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Considering powder coating my wheels gunmetal or anthracite grey ..so I plastidipped them "gunmetal" to see how they'd look. Well I guess they needed roughed up first or a dark base layer, because it came our pretty ridiculous. Reminds me of a plastic powerwheels wheel. :hillbilly:

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wpsfan said:
Considering powder coating my wheels gunmetal or anthracite grey ..so I plastidipped them "gunmetal" to see how they'd look. Well I guess they needed roughed up first or a dark base layer, because it came our pretty ridiculous. Reminds me of a plastic powerwheels wheel. :hillbilly:

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A bunch of folks complained about the gun metal color by plasti-dip so they did a charcoal grey that looks less like primer. You might like it.
 
Hey guys - I got a rockauto.com discount code by email, and they encourage you to share it. So if anybody wants 5% off between now and July 10, drop me a PM
 
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So... I'm starting a new job in two weeks and will be commuting in the cruiser for a while. That means I probably should get the exhaust reworked. It's developed a leak between the header and the cats now. I remember a discussion about flowmaster 50s(?) but not what thread that was in. Suggestions on what way I should go and if it is worth it eliminating the cats would be appreciated.

On a related note, what are everyone's thoughts on first gen (00'-06') tundras? Considering looking for one as a work/family truck. Thanks!
 
mountainmanryan said:
So... I'm starting a new job in two weeks and will be commuting in the cruiser for a while. That means I probably should get the exhaust reworked. It's developed a leak between the header and the cats now. I remember a discussion about flowmaster 50s(?) but not what thread that was in. Suggestions on what way I should go and if it is worth it eliminating the cats would be appreciated.

On a related note, what are everyone's thoughts on first gen (00'-06') tundras? Considering looking for one as a work/family truck. Thanks!
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I put in a flowmaster 50. If you go flowmaster, I recommend the 50 for lower noise and no drone at highway speeds. If you have OBDII, I would not consider removing cats, since you will have a CEL. Frankly, with the FZJ, I would probably leave the cats in. With my 3FE, I don't think I gained much with the cats out, either.
 
mountainmanryan said:
I remember a discussion about flowmaster 50s(?) but not what thread that was in.

On a related note, what are everyone's thoughts on first gen (00'-06') tundras? Considering looking for one as a work/family truck. Thanks!
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Was going to say that the FlowMasters were in the Thread of The Frank. Don't know about a 1G Tundra....do you require a pickup for the new job? I heard someone recently acquired a T100. You might be better off to save the $ you'd spend on a newer/used truck and apply it to 80 maintenance/improvements.
 
new to me hazard switch is in. Turn signals are now working! Still have one dash indicator light not working, I'm guessing its the bulb since both terminals work on the light and everything seems to be working fine. Still no brake lights, don't know if my switch is bad? Its a brand new switch though, so I couldn't imagine that being the case. Maybe its something in the 70 to 71 harness upgrade? Not sure. Turn signals are a big improvement though...
 
Saw a video on Youtube about making your own limb risers so I thought I'd give it a shot. Came out really nice and they are removable in about 5 minutes. Cost me about $20 at Home Depot.

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Here is a link to the video:

 
Rebuilt the front axle last weekend - new bearings all around, new front & rear rotors, and rear brake calipers. One of the rear calipers was seized, and the other was leaking.

Found out why I had trouble keeping the right front wheel bearing tight. PO somehow damaged the outer bearin cage - looks like they slipped trying to adjust axle nuts with a screwdriver & hammer:bang: So the inner bearing spun on the spindle. Replaced it with one from my spare axle.

Also had to replace the PS hub - at some point somebody beat it out of the rotor with a steel hammer, then ground it out with an angle grinder or such, with the result that the bearing seal was glued in with something :bang::bang:

Also looked like they tried to take the axle seal out with a jackhammer:doh:

Drives & brakes great now!!

Anyway, easier job this weekend - lights, wipers and a new rear diff actuator. Gave up on constantly rebuilding the old one and having it fail again in a few months
 
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Messing around with the CNC router at the library tonight.
 
Springs505 said:
Libraries have cnc routers now!?!? I need to get out more... nice work! What material is that?
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Yep - Library 21C in Chapel Hills area. Bunch of 3d printers and a laser cutter/engraver as well. Material is just 1" foam insulation board from home depot. Cheap if it doesn't come out, and allows for a fast travel speed to save time.

I may try pouring some aluminum into it.
 
Heat in the shop!
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black95 said:
Nice choice. Buddy of mine has that same heater in his three car garage. Heats up quick.
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It seems a little undersized right now, but I'm going to rig up a curtain between the new part (400 ft^2, insulated) and the old part (600 ft^2, uninsulated). I think that will make a big difference.
 
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