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- #21
I'm not really experienced with roof racks, and the fairings. Would a light-bar up-front serve the same function as the fairing?
What is the lowest profile roof rack option?
- Thread starter sonk76
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I'm not really experienced with roof racks, and the fairings. Would a light-bar up-front serve the same function as the fairing?
I was lucky enough to see the Gamiviti inventory first hand. Very nice stuff. Too bad I was there to buy an old stock rack for the time being...man that was hard.
Absolutely the totally flat one is on my list.
I don't think you would want to get any lower profile.
Absolutely the totally flat one is on my list.
I don't think you would want to get any lower profile.
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Sonk, I don't think a light bar would net the same benefit, unless you pointed it up towards the moon. You're looking for aerodynamics, and a light bar is a little too brick-shaped. it would help, but wouldn't erase the wind noise as well as a real fairing.
The one paflytyer made is even better in that capacity than a Yakima or Thule one, in that it completely wraps the front of the rack. so essentially the windshield just got taller- what's probably even sweeter is having the sunroof open on the highway, and still being able to have a conversation, or talk on the (hands free) phone.
I run a 48" Yakima fairing and it does a pretty decent job, but I'm sure not as well as that one. dude once you get fairing 2.0 perfected let's talk about a consignment deal..
As for small stuff falling through, paflytyer hit it- really not an issue for most of what we plan to carry up there. Camping chairs, camping tables, stove, sleeping bags, duffel bags, hot shower kit, empty water jugs... they span at least 2-3 bars, and then they get strapped down. Even with a mesh floor you'd still strap it down, you wouldn't let anything slide front to back on its own. On a trip last year I clamped a piece of plastic on mine, just to make sure some of the smaller stuff had a floor- not sure if it was necessary but seemed like a good thing to do. Just placed it all up somewhat logically, then used one of those big bungee spider web things around the perimeter.
But worst case if a chair or something actually rotated 90° and fell between the bars, it only has 3" to go until it's on the roof, and then would still kept in place by the side hoops. Beyond camping stuff, most of what I intend to haul is on the big side- 2x4's, plywood, Ikea runs, boats, 10' sections of steel tubing, RTT, Thule box, bike racks... none of which benefits from being on top of a mesh floor, or being elevated on top of a basket area. that's why I went with the low approach.
Here's a "loaded" pic of my own... yeah I know an 80, but hey it's the rack we're talking about. If you look close you can see the winch line... yup I was stuck!
also a 100 series picture with a more "typical" load...
Thanks again for the support guys, feel free to send me emails off the site, or post up to my vendor thread, or send PM's with more specifics. 5cruiser better get over here quick man or I might find another home for this flat one..
The one paflytyer made is even better in that capacity than a Yakima or Thule one, in that it completely wraps the front of the rack. so essentially the windshield just got taller- what's probably even sweeter is having the sunroof open on the highway, and still being able to have a conversation, or talk on the (hands free) phone.
I run a 48" Yakima fairing and it does a pretty decent job, but I'm sure not as well as that one. dude once you get fairing 2.0 perfected let's talk about a consignment deal..
As for small stuff falling through, paflytyer hit it- really not an issue for most of what we plan to carry up there. Camping chairs, camping tables, stove, sleeping bags, duffel bags, hot shower kit, empty water jugs... they span at least 2-3 bars, and then they get strapped down. Even with a mesh floor you'd still strap it down, you wouldn't let anything slide front to back on its own. On a trip last year I clamped a piece of plastic on mine, just to make sure some of the smaller stuff had a floor- not sure if it was necessary but seemed like a good thing to do. Just placed it all up somewhat logically, then used one of those big bungee spider web things around the perimeter.
But worst case if a chair or something actually rotated 90° and fell between the bars, it only has 3" to go until it's on the roof, and then would still kept in place by the side hoops. Beyond camping stuff, most of what I intend to haul is on the big side- 2x4's, plywood, Ikea runs, boats, 10' sections of steel tubing, RTT, Thule box, bike racks... none of which benefits from being on top of a mesh floor, or being elevated on top of a basket area. that's why I went with the low approach.
Here's a "loaded" pic of my own... yeah I know an 80, but hey it's the rack we're talking about. If you look close you can see the winch line... yup I was stuck!
also a 100 series picture with a more "typical" load...
Thanks again for the support guys, feel free to send me emails off the site, or post up to my vendor thread, or send PM's with more specifics. 5cruiser better get over here quick man or I might find another home for this flat one..
Last edited:
hoser
SILVER Star
Just a comment about fairings... Initially I wanted a full rack but I bought a half rack. The half rack (positioned towards the rear) is very quiet w/o any fairing... almost can't even tell the difference. When I need to carry a longer load, I just add a yakima/thule bar up front. It gets much louder but since it is easy to remove, it's no big deal as I don't normally run with it.
What is the spacing between the bars?
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Last edited:
re_guderian
SILVER Star
9.5", or 9" gap? Are the bars 1" dia.? If so...10" on center, or 9.5" gap.
, could you use this to either wrap the bars or clamps to use Yakima accessories?
9.5", or 9" gap? Are the bars 1" dia.? If so...
10.5" center to center, so 9.5" gap. ^^^ that rubber looks perfect! I'm gonna get a piece a little thicker than 1/32 though and give it a try. Thanks for that link.
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9.5", or 9" gap? Are the bars 1" dia.? If so...
1" bar, and a 9.5" gap... ok maybe that is 10.5" OC. The plates are 9.5" long, and are used to maintain cross bar spacing throughout the assembly.
Yes that rubber would work well. I have also used rubber gasket material from a garage door gasket that I bought for a different project. Also thin plastic sprinkler line works really well too- just cut off a small piece, slit it lengthwise, then slip it over the bar and it snaps in place- doesn't even have to go all the way around to make those Yak clamps really snug.
re_guderian
SILVER Star
Does either the front foot or cross-bar interfere with tilting the sunroof up?
Not at all, fully opens, closes and tilts up and down. One "bonus" of the gap is that in an emergency, if me, my wife or kids needed to escape the vehicle through the sunroof, we could all get out. My wife and kids, no problem, I'll have to really suck in the gut, but I can fit.
I don't know how likely that is (not very, but you never know), or if it's even a concern. YMMV, but it was in the back of my mind as a "what if". That's what has kept me from welding mesh on the front part of the basket.
re_guderian
SILVER Star
Around here, it's more about keeping the interior of the cruiser about 30-40 degrees cooler in the summer when parked in the sun.
Nice looking rig Neoworm! Have anymore pictures of your rack? How's the strenght of the 1/2" crossbars? How tall is it?
Thanks. It's not the strongest rack but it's strong enough for my tent and a couple jerry cans. The tradeoff is it is relatively inexpensive and really light. The biggest surprise was just how quiet it is. I've never measured how high it is but it's pretty low compared to a lot I've seen.
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Best I can do.
Best I can do.
I've been very happy with my Front Runner Wind Cheetah; low profile was on top of list of requirements. Bought it from Fernando at Camping Lab a couple years ago when he had them specially priced at $900 and free shipping...no brainer on that one.
I've hauled many light to heavy loads on it without issue. I especially like the t-type track for easily, quickly and solidly securing any load.
It was fairly quiet as is...unless the sun roof was open. So I fabbed a fairing and it took care of that issue.
For someone who wants to take it on/off regularly the mounting system leaves a bit to be desired, though, in terms of being able to quickly access the mounting bolts.
I've hauled many light to heavy loads on it without issue. I especially like the t-type track for easily, quickly and solidly securing any load.
It was fairly quiet as is...unless the sun roof was open. So I fabbed a fairing and it took care of that issue.
For someone who wants to take it on/off regularly the mounting system leaves a bit to be desired, though, in terms of being able to quickly access the mounting bolts.
- Thread starter
- #40
--> indicates about 3" height for Gamiviti rack.
As a quick frame of reference, I climbed on the back of my truck tonight and measured the top of the stock cross bars on an '06 LX at ~2.5" (quick measurement--had skis mounted on the roof that interfered a little with getting a clean view, so my measurement might be of 1/4" +/-). So looks like there are options out there that come to within 0.5" of the stock height.
