What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week?

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I did the same on my Tuffy box for my '77. I found my arm felt too high when resting on it so cut about 2" off the bottom. Bent up a new sheetmetal bottom with a 1/2" hem and slid it inside the box. Then pop riveted the box to the new bottom. Put a piece of foam in the bottom for a cleaner look. Can't even tell it was cut.
 
With no doors and therefore, no mirrors, it makes visibility a little harder. I bought some cheap mirrors of Amazon to try. I figured most of the mounting hardware I wouldn’t use but for about $25, if the mirror and arm were decent enough I’d be content. Pleased so far; a couple 5/16” bolts and mounted them through the upper door hinge pin hole. Good visibility in the shop. Heading out for a meetup in a few minutes and I’ll know if they work at all at speed.

QMPARTS Upgraded Mirrors Doors... Amazon.com: QMPARTS Upgraded Mirrors Doors Off Compatible with JK JKU TJ, Round Wrangler Side Mirrors Doorless Mirrors for Safe Doors off Driving Quick Releases Anti-shake for 1997-2018 Wrangler : Automotive - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08VS7L97H?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


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fj40fillet said:
Well as things go. I went to change my t-case and trans fluid to improve shifting a little turned into, I might as well fix that e-brake that does not work too. Waiting on parts but I resealed the output shaft of the t-case, new gasket and new speedo cable seal. New OEM toyota e-brake parts too. I like to use OEM whenever they are available.

I also mounted my new Tuff Console while my seat was out for a seat bracket extension to get more leg room. I'm not a big fan of Tuff Console. I had to elongate the console holes to match up with their bracket they sent, and the bolts they sent don't match the nut inserts in their bracket. JUNK!

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Thanks for the update on the Tuffy center console, I was considering that. Other work you did looks great.
 
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wchevron said:
Got the tires balanced yesterday. The wobble at 50mph is almost all gone. So much smoother driving on the highway. Mechanic said the shocks should be replaced so that's next on the agenda
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I just did the same. Got the tires balances, an alignment and new shocks. Runs straight and true. What kind of shocks are you considering?
 
bernardbar3 said:
Found some Chevy Cobolt seats. Had them reupholstered, rails modified and installed. Wow, what a transition! I can slide back further, recline, sit higher for better visibility and they really update the interior. Next I need to get a center console and headliner. It's coming along. Cheers!

What year is your 40?
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Skreddy said:
With no doors and therefore, no mirrors, it makes visibility a little harder. I bought some cheap mirrors of Amazon to try. I figured most of the mounting hardware I wouldn’t use but for about $25, if the mirror and arm were decent enough I’d be content. Pleased so far; a couple 5/16” bolts and mounted them through the upper door hinge pin hole. Good visibility in the shop. Heading out for a meetup in a few minutes and I’ll know if they work at all at speed.

QMPARTS Upgraded Mirrors Doors... Amazon.com: QMPARTS Upgraded Mirrors Doors Off Compatible with JK JKU TJ, Round Wrangler Side Mirrors Doorless Mirrors for Safe Doors off Driving Quick Releases Anti-shake for 1997-2018 Wrangler : Automotive - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08VS7L97H?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


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Mirrors worked great for what they are. A little vibration at idle but no more than the windshield mounted rear view.


Met some new locals too!

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flee said:
Great timing on your post of the Tuffy console. I just put my Tuffy back in the '63 FJ40 after installing '71 OEM seats. As you might guess,
the Tuffy console was too tall to be useful on the factory bench so I started by sawing 4" off the bottom using an industrial band saw.
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I had a new bottom cut from 16ga cold rolled:
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Then I had a chance to practice my sheet metal welding:
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I didn't have the actual '71 folding center seat back frame but I do have the new foam padding and vinyl that I'll get around to upholstering but
for now I attached the console to a 1-1/8" slab of teak that was lying around for the last 20 years or so. Then I attached it to the seat brackets.
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I positioned it closer to the passenger seat so as not to interfere with the floor shifter.
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Nice mod. Yeah, for the price of them, you would think they would be a slam dunk install. Not the case.
 
knuckle47 said:
I’m sure you don’t need any Sniper motivational speeches and it’s not that a great carburetor does not perform BUT one of the greatest pleasures I get from my Sniper is the amazing instant starts. In my decades of owning land cruisers or older cars that are not regular drivers, if I don’t start it within a week or 10 days ..that start process takes a quite a few cranks.

With the Sniper..I turn the key, pressurize the fuel and it always just starts instantly. Good luck with that decision. But you’ve probably already decided
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Same thing here with a Carter rotary vane electric Fuel pump. It can sit for months... turn the key to prime the carb, pump the gas once, and turn the key. It doesn't matter if it has been sitting for months or days, It starts right up. When it sat for two years I ran it dry before parking it and poured a bit of fuel stabilizer in the tank. Two years later I poured some fresh gas into the tank, ran jumpers for the battery, and it started after cranking over a few times. I then drove it home 70 miles after topping up at the gas station.

And before anyone states that electric pumps aren't reliable... my first Carter pump worked flawlessly for more than 23 years. When it eventually stopped pumping, I likely could have got it working again, but felt it wasn't worth the effort to get it working again when the exterior was very rusty and a couple of the mounting studs broke when I pulled it out to inspect. It was faster and easier to replace it with a newer pump that shour ensure reliability for the next 20+ years.
 
SergP said:
Rope trick... Make sure the rope isn't stuck in the cylinder.. Don't ask me how I know..
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I've never done it with rope, but I did use compressed air. I(t did the job perfectly, and nothing could get stuck in the cylinder. I did it back in '92 by brazing a compressor fitting into a spark plug after breaking the Porcelain out. I then connected the compressor to it with it set at 90 psi.

These days you can probably order a special plug to do it... it was different back then when I started my 40 adventure.
 
I have a compression gauge with a quick disconnect hose, remove the shrader valve and plug my air hose to it. I’ve had it for decades.
 
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