What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (15 Viewers)

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Have you tried spraying them with a clear coat after? I've heard that's a trick that helps slow down the yellowing after cleaned, or even buying ppf roll and cutting/applying. You can get ppf rolls for pretty cheap online.

Always heard that...and its likely true. But with this method literally taking only10 minutes...not even masking...I stopped thinking about clear coats, etc. If the clear coat ended up yellowibg, it would mean sanding it off, etc. This goofy way is just so quick & easy, I just figure I’ll keep doi g it a couple times a year.
 
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Always heard that...and its likely true. But with this method literally taking only10 minutes...not even masking...I stopped thinking about clear coats, etc. If the clear coat ended up yellowibg, it would mean sanding it off, etc. This goofy way is just so quick & easy, I just figure I’ll keep doi g it a couple times a year.
Mark, I do something similar. But I use Chemical Guys’ Jet Seal afterwards. Also super easy and I seem to get more life in between touch ups. not sure how that compares to other clear coats.

But thanks for posting your solution - reminds me I’m due for my next session!
 
Mark, I do something similar. But I use Chemical Guys’ Jet Seal afterwards. Also super easy and I seem to get more life in between touch ups. not sure how that compares to other clear coats.

But thanks for posting your solution - reminds me I’m due for my next session!

Will check that out! :cheers:
 
Have you tried spraying them with a clear coat after? I've heard that's a trick that helps slow down the yellowing after cleaned, or even buying ppf roll and cutting/applying. You can get ppf rolls for pretty cheap online.

Never thought of the roll-on thing. Ppf?
 
Goods

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That entire rotor is bare metal. It will rust very quickly. Coated rotors have painted/coated inner and outer hubs and internals to minimize/slow down corrosion and rust.
This is the same kit lots of people have used on here. And they’ve never had any issues…
 
Never thought of the roll-on thing. Ppf?
Paint protection film. The clear wraps people do to cars. Silly cheap for a small roll that'll do your lights and then some, and if it yellows you don't have to worry about sanding like you mentioned just peel it off.
 
Paint protection film. The clear wraps people do to cars. Silly cheap for a small roll that'll do your lights and then some, and if it yellows you don't have to worry about sanding like you mentioned just peel it off.
I put PPF on my lights but did it more out of concern for rocks and pebbles.
 
I put PPF on my lights but did it more out of concern for rocks and pebbles.
I replaced mine since I got them a bit too hot with the kit I used to clear the yellowing and melted the plastic a bit. Bought new lights and put an old xpel kit a mud member offered to sell on them. I have since also used PPF for non-car related things too, stuff is great.
 
I reworked my yellowed headlights a few months ago. I used the 3M kit for sanding and the sylvania kit for the UV protection. The UV coating is a PITA to wipe on correctly and I don't like how it turned out. And it's already yellowing just slightly, probably from application error. Good thing is that it supposedly wipes off with isopropyl alcohol. I'll touch them up when I can't stand it anymore and either try @Markuson mag polish or apply ppf. Anything to prolong buying new headlight assemblies.
 
Taking our LC in tomorrow to get the front end plastic wrapped in the hopes of deflecting small stones creating paint chips. Here in the Phoenix area, it is not if but how often the windshield gets replaced from stone damage over the life of the vehicle :cool:

Big day for my wife and me, we get the second Pfizer shot this afternoon. That event will allow for my full concentration on getting the research done for the best rear suspension upgrade for our LC. This forum provides more information than a any other source around. Experience provides the best references.
 
Me? I'd get all new - no doubt.

HTH
I replace them all with drilled and slotted rotors. these would be just back up or spares I guess
 
Junk them. Quality OEM rotors are pretty cheap.

I personally would avoid slotted and drilled as that's actually a liability for stress fractures with most of what you'll find from the aftermarket. Cosmetic drilled rotors versus real deal race rotors which are engineered with them to begin with and use rigorous processes to manufacture them.
 
Junk them. Quality OEM rotors are pretty cheap.

I personally would avoid slotted and drilled as that's actually a liability for stress fractures with most of what you'll find from the aftermarket. Cosmetic drilled rotors versus real deal race rotors which are engineered with them to begin with and use rigorous processes to manufacture them.
I went with the kit people have used on here. So far they have no bad reports.
 

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