What have you done to your 200 Series this week?

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New Grill time:
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Disregard the dirty rig. Moab road trips bring the bugs
Garage Alpha Offroad LX Grill with lights.
Great grill, horrendous company with even worse customer service/support.
Got the grill, but it was missing the hardware and the LEXUS center plate and badge lettering. Multiple voicemails, multiple emails, reviews, and zero response to anything. Gave up and had my guys 3D print the whole center badge and support. Came out incredible. Love the new look.
Wow! That Victory bumper and that grill looks absolutely fantastic together! I was absolutely not considering a front bumper but this may change my mind :/. I have their skid plates, which are amazing (and very stout).
 
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285/70R18 on satin black powdercoated Tundra wheels. Laces out obviously…

< 3” dobinson lift, 1.25” hub spacers >
 
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Just realized I shared the initial photo in the 200 series photos thread, my bad, here are some things done recently.
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All coolant bypass hoses and pipe, new.
All fuel injector nozzles remastered.
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Anyone know the size of the copper washer for the M10 banjo bolts?

Amazon has some that are 10 x 16mm OD x 1mm.

I need to redo a banjo connection for one of the lines I installed. Slee provided the current ones and I forgot to measure them before installing.
 
Anyone know the size of the copper washer for the M10 banjo bolts?

Amazon has some that are 10 x 16mm OD x 1mm.

I need to redo a banjo connection for one of the lines I installed. Slee provided the current ones and I forgot to measure them before installing.
I added the Slee stainless brake lines a few years ago. I wanted some of the spare copper washers to have on hand in case I needed to replace a caliper. Contacted Slee and was told they outsource the manufacturing of those lines and were unable to obtain the copper washers alone. I thought that was odd. Anyway, I ordered an assortment of various sizes of copper washers to have on hand.....Yes, it would be good to know the exact measurement of those copper washers. I don't have one from the Slee kit to measure.

FWIW - OEM uses Part Number: 47389-50020


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I added the Slee stainless brake lines a few years ago. I wanted some of the spare copper washers to have on hand in case I needed to replace a caliper. Contacted Slee and was told they outsource the manufacturing of those lines and were unable to obtain the copper washers alone. I thought that was odd. Anyway, I ordered an assortment of various sizes of copper washers to have on hand.....Yes, it would be good to know the exact measurement of those copper washers. I don't have one from the Slee kit to measure.

FWIW - OEM uses Part Number: 47389-50020


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Measured the OD last night with it still on the car and it looks like it’s 15mm.
Gonna assume they are 1mm thickness..almost all M10 washers are minimum 1mm from what I can find.

Found another OEM option that should work. Looks to be 15mm and cheaper the aluminum one in your pic.

Belmetric has them but damn shipping is 16$.

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Now that I have some more room to work in I think I need to do some mods. Hopefully I don't go too crazy.

My original plan was to cut access holes for the rear upper shock mounts but since I have these oem fox bump stops from the new Tacoma, I'm going to try and retro fit in the rear. These will require an additional hole. These go inside the springs.

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Also the Rear Shock Spacers are back in stock and ready to ship.
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Skids and rear bumper should also be available in a month or so.
 
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My mechanic shared these photos with me while he is in full swing of the Valley plate repair. Thought yall might enjoy a peek at this.

I’ll be honest, I don’t really know exactly what I’m looking at. The first photo is (to my understanding) the most clear to me: lots of coolant crusted over and obvious signs of a decently old leak. Top left of the first photo is… a fully busted hose? Curious what that actually is there. Crazy that this engine has never thrown a code, handled regular commutes at 80-90mph, and didn’t have bigger issues. Though I can totally see how this could get horribly bad if it was left unattended.

Second photo is a coolant tee line that’s clearly seeping? Should be basic remove and replace.

If anyone has a more technical analysis of what I’m looking at, all info is deeply appreciated. Would love to learn more about this car I hope to drive to 500k. Currently at 205k.
 
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My mechanic shared these photos with me while he is in full swing of the Valley plate repair. Thought yall might enjoy a peek at this.

I’ll be honest, I don’t really know exactly what I’m looking at. The first photo is (to my understanding) the most clear to me: lots of coolant crusted over and obvious signs of a decently old leak. Top left of the first photo is… a fully busted hose? Curious what that actually is there. Crazy that this engine has never thrown a code, handled regular commutes at 80-90mph, and didn’t have bigger issues. Though I can totally see how this could get horribly bad if it was left unattended.

Second photo is a coolant tee line that’s clearly seeping? Should be basic remove and replace.

If anyone has a more technical analysis of what I’m looking at, all info is deeply appreciated. Would love to learn more about this car I hope to drive to 500k. Currently at 205k.
First pic is the valley plate area, still has oil separator and SAIS lines running across it. The ugly brown and dark purple stuff is the dried remains of a fair amount of coolant that escaped the sealed area.

Second pic is your “heater T” getting ready to explode. Sometimes mechanics do the whole assembly with soft lines too.. note that the 2013 and up years got an improved resin in those T’s and they don’t degrade the same way. Maybe worth confirming he’s using the later parts.

Interesting conversation starts here: Heater Hose T Upgrade for my 200 - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/heater-hose-t-upgrade-for-my-200.1056592/post-15549418
 
First pic is the valley plate area, still has oil separator and SAIS lines running across it. The ugly brown and dark purple stuff is the dried remains of a fair amount of coolant that escaped the sealed area.

Second pic is your “heater T” getting ready to explode. Sometimes mechanics do the whole assembly with soft lines too.. note that the 2013 and up years got an improved resin in those T’s and they don’t degrade the same way. Maybe worth confirming he’s using the later parts.

Interesting conversation starts here: Heater Hose T Upgrade for my 200 - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/heater-hose-t-upgrade-for-my-200.1056592/post-15549418
Thanks for the explanation! I did confirm with him that he ordered updated parts. Definitely a fair amount of coolant… should be getting the truck back Wednesday.
 
Awaiting my soft open hinge from ebay, I decided to get a jump start to opening up the access hole to the nut on the inside of the tail gate. I wasn't quite ready to break the paint on the hinges just yet, so took a small drill bit wrapped in electrical tape to pin point where I needed to be. I went up from 2mm to 4mm and hand drilled the rest from the outside with stepped drill bit to get the hole "close enough". I was about .25 mm off, so I took a 6x1mm thread chaser to get me where I wanted to be.
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It looks like the hydraulic bumps are going to work. The trd pro fox bumps have 1.75" of travel and engage for 3/4" before the frame mounted bumps stops hit the axle. I assume the rubber bumps have about 1" of travel.
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Only down side is I have a hole in the body now :)
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