Yes, the tire carrier is very stout. I was pleasantly surprised.Does that vertical tube on the tire carrier have any bracing? It doesn’t look like it would hold up with a large/ heavy wheel and tire setup
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Yes, the tire carrier is very stout. I was pleasantly surprised.Does that vertical tube on the tire carrier have any bracing? It doesn’t look like it would hold up with a large/ heavy wheel and tire setup
Love that color. Looks awesome.Finally have the exterior of the 200 to a point I'm happy with it. Not sure if the PO took it through scratch and dent carwashes, or washed it with a broom, but the clear coat scratches were bad. Started with a thorough cleaning, then a full clay bar, then got out the DA and 105 on a course pad, 205 on a medium pad, and 21 sealant on a finishing pad. Nothing special and I'm not a profession detailer, but it's a solid 80% better. View attachment 3871253View attachment 3871251View attachment 3871250
I don’t know, if you have big tires and skids, pinstripes and scratches seem to help give a 200 a more manly and rugged look. Besides, it’s too much work trying to buff them out.I wish there were more blue, red and really any *color* 200's out there. That dark blue looks awesome. Good job on the detail. I think my paint is beyond hope at this point.
I've also been busy spending money overseas and waiting long periods of time for shipments.
I'm sorry if these are repeats for some of you on my same FB groups.
The tire carrier is cool, but I'd like some mods to it and since I don't have an extended fuel tank, I don't see myself using it too much, unless I decide to run larger tires than I can fit underneath, which probably will never happen.
The skid plates I really like, mostly from the weight perspective. I also have the Victory 4x4 skid plates and if I was to do any real offroading, like when I hit wearyman's creek (brutal in a stock lx - ask me how I know), I'd probably use the Victory ones, but driving around Houston, I don't need the added 100+ lb of all that steel.
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Looks great. I did the same (except I got the HE mat) but also ordered the custom covers for those openings (and braces) in the wheel well arches. I like the D-ring. I need to build a platform of some sort and incorporate the use of these.
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Those skids look good. Who makes these? I tried googling LDKLZ and I am not finding anything pop up that looks like yours. Thank you!
those covers looks nice, got a link for them ?
The steel wheels do use a different lug than aluminum wheels. Also the tightening torque is like 150 ft lbs instead of 97. Pretty sure steel wheels have a flat vs a conical washer.Happy Friday everybody! Think about snagging these Tundra Steelies + KO2s to throw on the 200, any fitment concerns? Also with steel wheels do I need different lugnuts, would these work? White Knight Wheel Nut 4 Piece 11709D4 - https://www.autozone.com/suspension-steering-tire-and-wheel/lug-nut/p/white-knight-wheel-nut-4-piece-11709d4/758802_0_0View attachment 3871760
The steel wheels do use a different lug than aluminum wheels. Also the tightening torque is like 150 ft lbs instead of 97. Pretty sure steel wheels have a flat vs a conical washer.
Tell us more about the 4 door R32!Finally have the exterior of the 200 to a point I'm happy with it. Not sure if the PO took it through scratch and dent carwashes, or washed it with a broom, but the clear coat scratches were bad. Started with a thorough cleaning, then a full clay bar, then got out the DA and 105 on a course pad, 205 on a medium pad, and 21 sealant on a finishing pad. Nothing special and I'm not a profession detailer, but it's a solid 80% better. View attachment 3871253View attachment 3871251View attachment 3871250
Love the steelies. Same size and offset as LC wheels. Those tires may look kinda small though.Happy Friday everybody! Think about snagging these Tundra Steelies + KO2s to throw on the 200, any fitment concerns? Also with steel wheels do I need different lugnuts, would these work? White Knight Wheel Nut 4 Piece 11709D4 - https://www.autozone.com/suspension-steering-tire-and-wheel/lug-nut/p/white-knight-wheel-nut-4-piece-11709d4/758802_0_0View attachment 3871760
I would go with Thule Aero Bars instead of modifying your rack. I’ve used the Hullavator for years on multiple cruisers. There is just a lot of leverage goin on loading/unloading.. I think the bars would handle that better. As you know the overhang you speak of needs to be right so you don’t bang the side of the cruiser. Usually the bars are longer than recommended by Thule. You could just leave the Hullavator bracket attached and remove the Thule bars when not needed.View attachment 3870146
I’ve been piddling with a kayak rack for a little while but made some headway today as well as ran into an issue. The Hullavator rack causes a lot of upward force on the dissent rail causing it to warp, this is without a boat on it. So now I’m debating on reinforcing this rail by sandwiching it with some aluminum stock or getting Thule cross bars and attaching those to the dissent rack. The rails would only be up there when hauling the boat and that’s only a couple trips in the spring, bonus is the bars could also go on the manly van if needed.
This is the area of the rail that’s warping.
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To get the required overhang I modified a pair of large dissent awning mounts, I may move to the short mounts to pull the rack closer when extended but I think this will make the warping worse because it will be further to the middle of the rail.
I went with the Hullavator because I’m short, the kayak is 80 pounds, and my hitch will be occupied by my camper…. Maybe we have too many hobbies?
My poor door? Rust free straight as an arrow 90 GTS-t. RB25DET swapped already. My buddy bought it from RHD Specialties probably a decade ago. He got bored with it and left it abandoned on his farm for 3 years. I'm probably the only one stupid enough to drive from Buffalo to Seattle and back for a $5k 4 door R32 but I do like a good road trip. I had to scratch a JDM itch, and this was the cheapest way to do it.Tell us more about the 4 door R32!
I believe this is the route I’m going to take but with their square bars. They all have the same weight rating andthe hight will be lowest with them… I have garage clearance issues so every millimeter counts.I would go with Thule Aero Bars instead of modifying your rack. I’ve used the Hullavator for years on multiple cruisers. There is just a lot of leverage goin on loading/unloading.. I think the bars would handle that better. As you know the overhang you speak of needs to be right so you don’t bang the side of the cruiser. Usually the bars are longer than recommended by Thule. You could just leave the Hullavator bracket attached and remove the Thule bars when not needed.
That rack makes kayak life much easier. My 2 cents!
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