What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (20 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Finally have the exterior of the 200 to a point I'm happy with it. Not sure if the PO took it through scratch and dent carwashes, or washed it with a broom, but the clear coat scratches were bad. Started with a thorough cleaning, then a full clay bar, then got out the DA and 105 on a course pad, 205 on a medium pad, and 21 sealant on a finishing pad. Nothing special and I'm not a profession detailer, but it's a solid 80% better. View attachment 3871253View attachment 3871251View attachment 3871250
Love that color. Looks awesome.
 
I wish there were more blue, red and really any *color* 200's out there. That dark blue looks awesome. Good job on the detail. I think my paint is beyond hope at this point.
 
I wish there were more blue, red and really any *color* 200's out there. That dark blue looks awesome. Good job on the detail. I think my paint is beyond hope at this point.
I don’t know, if you have big tires and skids, pinstripes and scratches seem to help give a 200 a more manly and rugged look. Besides, it’s too much work trying to buff them out.
 
To each their own, but I love myself a dirty cruiser. Once every 2 or 3 months I will take mine to a hand car wash and they will give it a good scrub and I mostly like the cleanliness inside. Outside, I can't wait for the next rain to get it dirty again. Oh, and wash away that damn tire shine that I ask them not to use it, but they always seem to "forget." Just hate that shine on my KO3s. :stop:
 
I've also been busy spending money overseas and waiting long periods of time for shipments. :D
I'm sorry if these are repeats for some of you on my same FB groups.
The tire carrier is cool, but I'd like some mods to it and since I don't have an extended fuel tank, I don't see myself using it too much, unless I decide to run larger tires than I can fit underneath, which probably will never happen.
The skid plates I really like, mostly from the weight perspective. I also have the Victory 4x4 skid plates and if I was to do any real offroading, like when I hit wearyman's creek (brutal in a stock lx - ask me how I know), I'd probably use the Victory ones, but driving around Houston, I don't need the added 100+ lb of all that steel.

View attachment 3870933

View attachment 3870934

Those skids look good. Who makes these? I tried googling LDKLZ and I am not finding anything pop up that looks like yours. Thank you!
 
Those skids look good. Who makes these? I tried googling LDKLZ and I am not finding anything pop up that looks like yours. Thank you!
 
those covers looks nice, got a link for them ?
 
Happy Friday everybody! Think about snagging these Tundra Steelies + KO2s to throw on the 200, any fitment concerns? Also with steel wheels do I need different lugnuts, would these work? White Knight Wheel Nut 4 Piece 11709D4 - https://www.autozone.com/suspension-steering-tire-and-wheel/lug-nut/p/white-knight-wheel-nut-4-piece-11709d4/758802_0_0
Image.jpg
 
Happy Friday everybody! Think about snagging these Tundra Steelies + KO2s to throw on the 200, any fitment concerns? Also with steel wheels do I need different lugnuts, would these work? White Knight Wheel Nut 4 Piece 11709D4 - https://www.autozone.com/suspension-steering-tire-and-wheel/lug-nut/p/white-knight-wheel-nut-4-piece-11709d4/758802_0_0View attachment 3871760
The steel wheels do use a different lug than aluminum wheels. Also the tightening torque is like 150 ft lbs instead of 97. Pretty sure steel wheels have a flat vs a conical washer.
 
The steel wheels do use a different lug than aluminum wheels. Also the tightening torque is like 150 ft lbs instead of 97. Pretty sure steel wheels have a flat vs a conical washer.

90942-01101

Screenshot 2025-03-28 at 8.28.25 PM.png
 
Finally have the exterior of the 200 to a point I'm happy with it. Not sure if the PO took it through scratch and dent carwashes, or washed it with a broom, but the clear coat scratches were bad. Started with a thorough cleaning, then a full clay bar, then got out the DA and 105 on a course pad, 205 on a medium pad, and 21 sealant on a finishing pad. Nothing special and I'm not a profession detailer, but it's a solid 80% better. View attachment 3871253View attachment 3871251View attachment 3871250
Tell us more about the 4 door R32!
 
Happy Friday everybody! Think about snagging these Tundra Steelies + KO2s to throw on the 200, any fitment concerns? Also with steel wheels do I need different lugnuts, would these work? White Knight Wheel Nut 4 Piece 11709D4 - https://www.autozone.com/suspension-steering-tire-and-wheel/lug-nut/p/white-knight-wheel-nut-4-piece-11709d4/758802_0_0View attachment 3871760
Love the steelies. Same size and offset as LC wheels. Those tires may look kinda small though.
 
Mine is going back for round 2 of my current alignment saga to weld the cam tabs and align… again asking for the cruiser gods to protect my truck from dropped wrenches, incorrect torque specs, and general incompetence.

ugh, I hate the anxiety mechanics cause me and I say this as a former wrench monkey.
 
View attachment 3870146

I’ve been piddling with a kayak rack for a little while but made some headway today as well as ran into an issue. The Hullavator rack causes a lot of upward force on the dissent rail causing it to warp, this is without a boat on it. So now I’m debating on reinforcing this rail by sandwiching it with some aluminum stock or getting Thule cross bars and attaching those to the dissent rack. The rails would only be up there when hauling the boat and that’s only a couple trips in the spring, bonus is the bars could also go on the manly van if needed.


This is the area of the rail that’s warping.
View attachment 3870147

To get the required overhang I modified a pair of large dissent awning mounts, I may move to the short mounts to pull the rack closer when extended but I think this will make the warping worse because it will be further to the middle of the rail.

I went with the Hullavator because I’m short, the kayak is 80 pounds, and my hitch will be occupied by my camper…. Maybe we have too many hobbies?
I would go with Thule Aero Bars instead of modifying your rack. I’ve used the Hullavator for years on multiple cruisers. There is just a lot of leverage goin on loading/unloading.. I think the bars would handle that better. As you know the overhang you speak of needs to be right so you don’t bang the side of the cruiser. Usually the bars are longer than recommended by Thule. You could just leave the Hullavator bracket attached and remove the Thule bars when not needed.
That rack makes kayak life much easier. My 2 cents!

IMG_8928.jpeg
 
IMG_0181.jpeg
 
Tell us more about the 4 door R32!
My poor door? Rust free straight as an arrow 90 GTS-t. RB25DET swapped already. My buddy bought it from RHD Specialties probably a decade ago. He got bored with it and left it abandoned on his farm for 3 years. I'm probably the only one stupid enough to drive from Buffalo to Seattle and back for a $5k 4 door R32 but I do like a good road trip. I had to scratch a JDM itch, and this was the cheapest way to do it.
Plans are to make it a quasi track car, I'm bored of running enduro's at the local ovals. It's got great bones, but all it need's is everything. At least I'll save it from becoming a drift slut.
IMG_20231002_111258645_HDR.jpg
428601428_25539174425681788_820105112937283979_n.jpg







In LC200 news, bought the currently discounted Rival skid plates. I know, I know, they are probably the weakest of the bunch, but for my use case (95% highway driving) aluminum was the only way I'd go (200's are pigfat enough). And for >$550 delivered, even ASFIR couldn't come close. I don't plan on going anywhere I'd even need skids, but the old "I'd rather have them and not need them, than need them but not have them". Same reason I'll get sliders shortly, but I have no interest in aftermarket bumpers.

skids.jpg
 
I would go with Thule Aero Bars instead of modifying your rack. I’ve used the Hullavator for years on multiple cruisers. There is just a lot of leverage goin on loading/unloading.. I think the bars would handle that better. As you know the overhang you speak of needs to be right so you don’t bang the side of the cruiser. Usually the bars are longer than recommended by Thule. You could just leave the Hullavator bracket attached and remove the Thule bars when not needed.
That rack makes kayak life much easier. My 2 cents!

View attachment 3873507
I believe this is the route I’m going to take but with their square bars. They all have the same weight rating andthe hight will be lowest with them… I have garage clearance issues so every millimeter counts.

Assuming goes well with my alignment and cam tabs welds today I will be back on the Hullavator project this afternoon or morning. Our next camping trip is this weekend and we’re at our spot on the river… it’s boats or bust as far as we’re concerned.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

  • Back
    Top Bottom