What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (23 Viewers)

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Added a Pelican 1170 to hold some survival items to use in a pinch. But I need a way to store these items securely in the event of a rollover or collision. Any suggestions?

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Cam straps. NRS ones, or cheaper army navy store ones. Or look at strapworks.com for custom ones. Check out the loop straps, since you can leave them looped around the tie down points so it's much easier to access your stuff and then re secure it. The advantage over ratchet type ones is if they lose tension they can't come loose. That's why they're used for rafting to keep loads secured in a flip.
 
I think I'll keep it as a spare...

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If you think this guy looks bad, you shoulda seen the rotor...
 
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@DIFF LOCK Build a small shelf back there. Anchor to floor. Might help a bit with smash and grab thieves too.
This was my first thought as well. Assuming you need your 3rd row in place all or most of the time, rather than a drawer system, a small cabinet the width of the tailgate and anchored to the two d-rings would work well. Tailgate storage, either from a vendor or DIY, may fit those items if the storage bags are deleted. Another option would be a simple elastic cargo net doubled over and all four corners attached to the two d-rings. Pics added to be a rule follower...

Edit: about a year ago at an offroad park, I saw a SUV, the brand of which shall not be named, that had traction boards attached directly to the inside of the tailgate and that's where they lived. Holes were drilled and brackets were installed. Obviously, we have the spring loaded shelf between body and gate that would be in the way, but it's easily removed if this solution makes sense for your use. Would certainly limit use of the tailgate for serving drinks, too, but priorities must be considered.
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Well, I decided not to hold out for the spacers (8-week lead time) and threw the new wheels/tires on. I swear these Tundra TRD wheels were made for the 100’s! Tires are 275/70 General Grabber X3.
Very nice. Just saw some on Craigslist today but more than I'd want to spend.
 
Not necessarily this week, but over the last few weeks. I had an occasional check engine light pop up, P0441. Evap purge control. I purchased a new purge valve # 25860-50100 from Fred Anderson Toyota’s online store for around $70. So far, so good.

I also had a return of the failed drivers side door window. The other three switches worked fine. I figured it was the same broken wire that I had a few years ago. I opened up the door panel and pulled the harness back through the door and found the broken wire and made that repair.

And finally, I got my Sharknet grille finished up and installed.

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The grille mesh came out great. Was it difficult to paint the grille border?
 
Installed three rivnuts on the passenger side A pillar to secure the snorkel properly. The anodyne magnets I was using before weren't strong enough. Golden will be up for sale soon, if you are looking for a mechanically well-sorted, triple locked cruiser that wears it's scars proudly!

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The grille mesh came out great. Was it difficult to paint the grille border?
i honestly don’t know how difficult it was. I’ve got a buddy who is a retired body man who saw it on my workbench and he took it and finished it off. He smoothed out some of the cuts, sanded, filler primer and paint. He’s restoring a 70 Mercury Cyclone Spoiler and he used his high end primer through his paint gun. It’s very smooth. He did a much better job than I would have. He used the rattle can of Duplicolor black trim paint I had for it.
 
Due to unusually uncooperative weather for painting through December here in SoCal blacking out my stock wheels took a few weeks. I used Rustoleum Automotive Primer and Dupli-Color Satin finish wheel paint, and received some black lug nuts for Christmas. I even painted the wheel balancing weights to finish the look.

Then last week taught my 15 y.o. Son how to do the oil change. (Our first on this vehicle, as we were finally approaching the 5K mark).

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Switched up from Amazon hid kit to a proper kit (all-Morimoto Elite XB 50w ballast, 6000k xenon bulbs, wiring harness and igniters) the result upward of 30% more light and intensity.
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The 6000k color temp went down to 5500k color temp (I see a hint of yellow) bec of the 50w ballast (was used to pure white), but this setup is growing on me.

I thought the asphalt would melt, HL and FL off: Diode Dynamics SS3 Max pair (spot).
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I've done some searching so please don't bash me for not searching. Does anyone know the main cause for a fuel smell coming from the tank/filler neck/gas cap area on my 100 series?

Really appreciate any replies! :cheers:
 
I've done some searching so please don't bash me for not searching. Does anyone know the main cause for a fuel smell coming from the tank/filler neck/gas cap area on my 100 series?

Really appreciate any replies! :cheers:
Sounds like tank venting. I think some of the people with the issue resolved it by either replacing the charcoal canister with a new OEM unit or cut open the bottom of their existing one and replaced the charcoal inside before sealing it back up. Try searching gas venting and you should be able to find stuff.

Also check out this thread:
Gas tank building excessive pressure & fuel smell. Dangerous for sure! Why does this happen? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/gas-tank-building-excessive-pressure-fuel-smell-dangerous-for-sure-why-does-this-happen.1214321/
 
Switched up from Amazon hid kit to a proper kit (all-Morimoto Elite XB 50w ballast, 6000k xenon bulbs, wiring harness and igniters) the result upward of 30% more light and intensity.View attachment 2892072
The 6000k color temp went down to 5500k color temp (I see a hint of yellow) bec of the 50w ballast (was used to pure white), but this setup is growing on me.

I thought the asphalt would melt, HL and FL off: Diode Dynamics SS3 Max pair (spot).
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Sweet lights! Do you think they need to be pointed slightly up?
 

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