What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (19 Viewers)

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I added a voltage readout that's connected directly to my battery instead of reading through a 12v accessory plug or through the ECU so I can get a true reading. I have one of the voltage boosting modified fuses so the ECU and other sources don't measure the true voltage of the battery. I used this volt meter which can have two voltage inputs so it only comes on with the ignition but is also directly connected to my battery: NOYITO 0.56 inches LED DC Digital Voltmeter 3-Wire 0.00V-30.0V Battery Voltage Tester Red Blue Two Colors Display(Pack of 2) (Red) - - Amazon.com

I also added a party switch that disables VSC and traction control :steer: I wired it so that the light turns on when the VSC and Trac is turned off: https://amzn.to/3cUS3G4

I left some space on the plate to add something else in the future but I think I may just 3D print something instead.

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I added a voltage readout that's connected directly to my battery instead of reading through a 12v accessory plug or through the ECU so I can get a true reading. I have one of the voltage boosting modified fuses so the ECU and other sources don't measure the true voltage of the battery. I used this volt meter which can have two voltage inputs so it only comes on with the ignition but is also directly connected to my battery: NOYITO 0.56 inches LED DC Digital Voltmeter 3-Wire 0.00V-30.0V Battery Voltage Tester Red Blue Two Colors Display(Pack of 2) (Red) - - Amazon.com

I also added a party switch that disables VSC and traction control :steer: I wired it so that the light turns on when the VSC and Trac is turned off: https://amzn.to/3cUS3G4

I left some space on the plate to add something else in the future but I think I may just 3D print something instead.

JZ2wVLQ.jpg


IdXOowV.jpg


JIRPO9R.jpg

Can you confirm how off the 12v accessory is now that you have a more accurate method.. was it off a lot?
 
Can you confirm how off the 12v accessory is now that you have a more accurate method.. was it off a lot?
It read about .6 ot .7 volts low through Torque or other OBD app. The voltage boosting diode basically tricks the ECU into increasing the voltage by about that same amount so that's why it's off. On a stock truck it's accurate.
 
It read about .6 ot .7 volts low through Torque or other OBD app. The voltage boosting diode basically tricks the ECU into increasing the voltage by about that same amount so that's why it's off. On a stock truck it's accurate.

got it i'm using a 12v accessory plugged into cigarette lighter and found it to be pretty accurate when using a multimeter on battery.. will retry mayhe my memory is fuzzy..

i have a hkb volt booster on mine as well so it's something i worry about.
 
Slee second battery tray...Trigger remote switch...ARB twin compresor...new audio amp install...plus additional electrical wiring for the back end. With the working from home, this all may actually get done.
 
Last night I wrapped up installing the Ironman rear shocks and springs.

(Does anybody happen to know what the washer is for that comes with the rear shocks? In the instructions it looks like it goes at the bottom with the bushings but I didn’t use it and it’s driving me crazy trying to figure out)

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I ordered extended sway bar links from Trail Tailor and those are coming in tomorrow so I can completely finish the rear end.
I also have the Trail Tailor diff drop coming in with the links.

Today I will try to knock out the torsion bars after work and start prepping the front end.

Left to do:
Front end ball joints
Tie rod ends
Diff Drop
Torsion bar reinforcement bracket
Front shocks
Alignment

/done?
 
Last night I wrapped up installing the Ironman rear shocks and springs.

(Does anybody happen to know what the washer is for that comes with the rear shocks? In the instructions it looks like it goes at the bottom with the bushings but I didn’t use it and it’s driving me crazy trying to figure out)

440-FD0-AC-D4-C4-4587-AEBB-D7-DE0-BFB45-A1.jpg


I ordered extended sway bar links from Trail Tailor and those are coming in tomorrow so I can completely finish the rear end.
I also have the Trail Tailor diff drop coming in with the links.

Today I will try to knock out the torsion bars after work and start prepping the front end.

Left to do:
Front end ball joints
Tie rod ends
Diff Drop
Torsion bar reinforcement bracket
Front shocks
Alignment

/done?
I'm interested in your washer question.
Waiting on my Ironman Nitrogas kit to arrive.
 
I'm interested in your washer question.
Waiting on my Ironman Nitrogas kit to arrive.
The picture below is the shock with the hardware it comes with.

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I am unsure of what the washer I’m pointing at is for.

This is otherwise how I assembled the top portion.

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I watched a OME install video on YouTube and this is also how they installed the rear shocks without any washer.
 
Warmed up enough to go after the surface rust on the chassis, the surface rust was making me nuts all winter so I did what I could scraping, wire wheeling, power washing and pick to get to a point of good enough,

Marked improvement
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The OEM skid did not make it and rust killed it. So a bang for the buck Asfir was purchased
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I also placed an order for some White Knuckle sliders.
 
I have slowly been buying parts over the last few years and finally had the time to put it all together. Icon stage 3 front and rear shocks, total chaos UCAs, Trail Tailor diff drop and extended swaybar links front and rear, metal tech 4x4 rear upper and lower Johnny joint Links and OME 866 springs. I cranked the torsion bars up a few turns and leveled out the front at 22” from the center of the hub, I think I may need to reindex my torsion bars so I can get 24” to match the rear, thoughts? I also have Ironman 4x4 torsion reinforcement brackets that have not been installed yet. Did I miss anything?

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Second picture is a very cracked bushing that mounts from the diff drop to the steering rack. I will definitely need to press that out and replace soon. Anyone have a name or part number for this piece?

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Go ahead and replace all three bushings.

 
Go ahead and replace all three bushings.


I'm replacing all of mine with the diff project. None were in terribly bad shape. I figure since they lasted 21 years, it will be sometime after the year 2041, before I would need to think about replacing them again. :zilla:
 
I'm replacing all of mine with the diff project. None were in terribly bad shape. I figure since they lasted 21 years, it will be sometime after the year 2041, before I would need to think about replacing them again. :zilla:
Only one of mine is bad from trying to move them in place with a small crowbar, but I'm replacing all of them while I'm at it.
 
Possibly the easiest auto repair I have done in my life:

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Added some noise deadener stuff from Amazon while I had things taken apart to get my fridge slide going.
 
The picture below is the shock with the hardware it comes with.

8-F5-F1-AA3-6315-47-D4-9-A9-B-0585-F29-EB026.jpg


I am unsure of what the washer I’m pointing at is for.

This is otherwise how I assembled the top portion.

C5-BAF962-F1-FD-44-B9-A1-B3-0-BA88-C13-C41-F.jpg



I watched a OME install video on YouTube and this is also how they installed the rear shocks without any washer.
I'm betting that washer is intended to go over the lower shock stud before you install the shock.
 
Big... NO HUGE week for the old LX! Debadged the back, installed back up lights in the rear bumper, built a sleeping/storage area, installed the TJM T13 bumper, and installed Metaltech sliders:clap:
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