What has she gotten me into This time!!?!???.... AKA another new guy post (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Sumguy
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Dekeman
SILVER Star
Mine had that color combo too originally, I’ll be looking to go back to original down the road. It seems odd but it grows on you.
Definitely an early model, the choke and rheostat have individual bosses instead of the rectangular cut out.
Definitely an early model, the choke and rheostat have individual bosses instead of the rectangular cut out.
Gretsch
SILVER Star
There is no reality where my wife says "there's this FJ60 on BaT that's ending today". I wouldn't change a thing about your scene. Leave the tires and treat the rust. Otherwise carry on. Cool story. Thanks for sharing.
- Thread starter
- #25
I'm down in west central GA, Warm Springs (Roosevelt's Little White House). Long way from everything, but always up for meeting (getting help or helping others ~ getting a 50x30 shop and 2-post lift this year if everything shakes out right).
Lol... should been pickier? And the tires are going because of Age (14 years) and dry-rot (both sidewall and tread).
So, for the past few days we've take care of step 1 in all used vehicle purchases, the initial clean. This is degreasing the engine and undercarriage (sucks to work on dirty/greasy parts ~ this was a simple full-strength soak and pressure washer rinse, more to come), strip-wash the paint with a coat of wax (spray ceramic stuff), and vacuum/shampoo the inside.
Yup, nastiness... this was a smoker vehicle at some time, as soon as the upholstry cleaner hit the cloth you could smell it.
- Thread starter
- #26
Found several suprises too... like, the Original spare tire (whoever put 33's on clearly weren't worried about having a spare), still has the nipples too! Curious, should I hold onto this thing? I imagine Someone, somewhere, might want an original spare for display purposes... but I don't have room to store it:
Knew the window crank was missing from this door, then noticed it was a different color...
And *THEN* realized it's an FJ62 door with electric windows... well, that sucks. Guess I'm in the market for a drivers rear door from a 60 (assuming all 62's were electric windows).
Started doing the first steps of basic maintenance, namely checking brakes and fluids. Thankfully brake lines are only about 10 years old and look good, pads on the front look dang near new (didn't pull the rear to check). All fluids were full and looked clean/new other than brake/clutch fluid. Looks like plug wires are new-ish and all the vacuum lines seem Very new. But I've got a question on this... a mod I'm not familar with:
Why would anyone tie the fill for the T/C and the Trans? Esp. with polyvinyl tube, which doesn't like petrolium?
And what about the PS fluid cap... toyoDa? Really?
Knew the window crank was missing from this door, then noticed it was a different color...
And *THEN* realized it's an FJ62 door with electric windows... well, that sucks. Guess I'm in the market for a drivers rear door from a 60 (assuming all 62's were electric windows).
Started doing the first steps of basic maintenance, namely checking brakes and fluids. Thankfully brake lines are only about 10 years old and look good, pads on the front look dang near new (didn't pull the rear to check). All fluids were full and looked clean/new other than brake/clutch fluid. Looks like plug wires are new-ish and all the vacuum lines seem Very new. But I've got a question on this... a mod I'm not familar with:
Why would anyone tie the fill for the T/C and the Trans? Esp. with polyvinyl tube, which doesn't like petrolium?
And what about the PS fluid cap... toyoDa? Really?
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- Thread starter
- #27
The biggest negatives I came across were for the exhaust, I seem to be having an issue here (it's 100% floating on the header!!)
The front is obviously just part of a clamp I'm missing and the rear is rust damage, but the middle hanget has me a little confused. It doesn't seem bent, but the front (empty) bolt holes are a long way from lining up with anything and the exhaust part of the hanger isn't quite engaging with the isolating dampers. Link to how it's Supposed to be please?
And I did a Much more through frame inspeaction today. Everything forward of the rear axle is just cosmetic surface rust (lots of whatever the original coating was still in place), the rear C in C-channel is rusted out, and yes I know Someone makes the replacements... I'll get that ordered up soon.
Now, some basic "What is it" questions....
#1, drivers side rear at the rearmost shackle mount:
Top of Passenger Front wheel:
And drivers side engine compartment, I know it's a fan:
What I'd like to know is if it Should kick on anytime the key is turned on and stay on for ~20 minutes after key out, even on a cold engine.
Thanks for the wlecome folks! I think this is going to conclude my "intro".... I'll get a build (more like maintenance and slow restoration) thread up and running soon. Gotta say, I took it up and down the driveway this afternoon and there's something Very appealing about this engine, it spoke ot my soul in a way very few other engines have... doesn't Quite knock the 1987 Honda VFR700 from top spot, but it's a top 3 for sure.
Brian (and Mrs... she said no to the step-stool in a most emphatic manor)
The front is obviously just part of a clamp I'm missing and the rear is rust damage, but the middle hanget has me a little confused. It doesn't seem bent, but the front (empty) bolt holes are a long way from lining up with anything and the exhaust part of the hanger isn't quite engaging with the isolating dampers. Link to how it's Supposed to be please?
And I did a Much more through frame inspeaction today. Everything forward of the rear axle is just cosmetic surface rust (lots of whatever the original coating was still in place), the rear C in C-channel is rusted out, and yes I know Someone makes the replacements... I'll get that ordered up soon.
Now, some basic "What is it" questions....
#1, drivers side rear at the rearmost shackle mount:
Top of Passenger Front wheel:
And drivers side engine compartment, I know it's a fan:
What I'd like to know is if it Should kick on anytime the key is turned on and stay on for ~20 minutes after key out, even on a cold engine.
Thanks for the wlecome folks! I think this is going to conclude my "intro".... I'll get a build (more like maintenance and slow restoration) thread up and running soon. Gotta say, I took it up and down the driveway this afternoon and there's something Very appealing about this engine, it spoke ot my soul in a way very few other engines have... doesn't Quite knock the 1987 Honda VFR700 from top spot, but it's a top 3 for sure.
Brian (and Mrs... she said no to the step-stool in a most emphatic manor)
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g-man
SILVER Star
The hose on the t/c to trans is a bypass hose. This is a work around for a leaking seal at the transfer case input shaft. It helps to even out the fluid. With the seal leaking one will over fill and the other will get low on fluid. Proper fix is a transfer case rebuild with a new seal and and while you have it apart just rebuild the whole thing. It is possible to rebuild a t/c while on the truck but probably easier to remove the t/c and transmission together and then separate them and rebuild it. while you have it out its a good time to replace the clutch and RMS...rear main seal of the engine.
The bracket on the frame driver side rear is tailpipe hanger.
The elbow fitting on the back of the brake backing plate is a brake line fitting. It's been bypassed. Probably with a longer brake hose. This isn't necesarily a bad thing. If you have to remove the brake backing plate you won't have to disconnect brake lines at the elbow and if the brake hose is long enough, just keep it connected and hang the backing plate from the shock tower while you rebuild the knuckle or brakes or whatever.
The bracket on the frame driver side rear is tailpipe hanger.
The elbow fitting on the back of the brake backing plate is a brake line fitting. It's been bypassed. Probably with a longer brake hose. This isn't necesarily a bad thing. If you have to remove the brake backing plate you won't have to disconnect brake lines at the elbow and if the brake hose is long enough, just keep it connected and hang the backing plate from the shock tower while you rebuild the knuckle or brakes or whatever.
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g-man
SILVER Star
The carb fan should cut on when you turn the engine off ...assuming things got hot enough. There is a temp sensor near the exhaust manifold that has a wire that runs to the fan and turns it off when things cool down. It should be connected to the piping on the EGR inlet below the carb at the intake or just rearward of that. The piping that connects to the PCV hose. There should be a white heat jacket around the wire to keep it from burning up.
g-man
SILVER Star
maybe this schematic will help you to sort out the exhaust brackets. Looks like you'll have to get some exhaust work done.
g-man
SILVER Star
Toyoda...is the real original p/s pump cover.
I don't think you'll need to find a new rear door. I have passenger side 62 doors and drivers side 60 doors. Result of repairs from a wreck. The metal framework of both doors are the same. You probably can just get a FJ60 window regulator and remove the 62 regulator. Don't toss it. Sell it. Remove the door card to see what you have in there. If there is wires and motors well...its a 62 and you can sell it. New OEM 60 regulators are still available and should bolt in.
I don't think you'll need to find a new rear door. I have passenger side 62 doors and drivers side 60 doors. Result of repairs from a wreck. The metal framework of both doors are the same. You probably can just get a FJ60 window regulator and remove the 62 regulator. Don't toss it. Sell it. Remove the door card to see what you have in there. If there is wires and motors well...its a 62 and you can sell it. New OEM 60 regulators are still available and should bolt in.
Hokie LX
SILVER Star
But I've got a question on this... a mod I'm not familar with:
Why would anyone tie the fill for the T/C and the Trans? Esp. with polyvinyl tube, which doesn't like petrolium?
And what about the PS fluid cap... toyoDa? Really?
As mentioned, the connecting tube is a common mod but generally is done with more appropriate materials.
The PS cap is factory that says Toyoda. I just bought a new PS pump from the dealer for my 60 and got a laugh out of it.
Welcome BTW! I just got a 60 myself a few months ago that I’ve been working on.
g-man
SILVER Star
Go here in the resources section and download this body and chassis FSM it shows you how to remove a door card and window regulator and how to rebuild a transfer case.
forum.ih8mud.com
FSM - 1984 - 1990 Repair Manual, Chassis/Body
forum.ih8mud.com
Awesome 60! You did just fine. The frame is fine, but I would create an oxygen barrier to prevent future rust. Use Fluid Film or something like it (search here on MUD for threads). Really you have a spit and polish gem there, especially if you don't mind a little patina. That is better than a perfect truck anyway imo. Your wife is a smart lady going after it. I am biased anyway because my girlfriend is smart like that too AND I drove a Bug ($125 purchase price) through high school and most of college lol!
The biggest negatives I came across were for the exhaust, I seem to be having an issue here (it's 100% floating on the header!!)
The front is obviously just part of a clamp I'm missing and the rear is rust damage, but the middle hanget has me a little confused. It doesn't seem bent, but the front (empty) bolt holes are a long way from lining up with anything and the exhaust part of the hanger isn't quite engaging with the isolating dampers. Link to how it's Supposed to be please?
And I did a Much more through frame inspeaction today. Everything forward of the rear axle is just cosmetic surface rust (lots of whatever the original coating was still in place), the rear C in C-channel is rusted out, and yes I know Someone makes the replacements... I'll get that ordered up soon.
Now, some basic "What is it" questions....
#1, drivers side rear at the rearmost shackle mount:
Top of Passenger Front wheel:
And drivers side engine compartment, I know it's a fan:
What I'd like to know is if it Should kick on anytime the key is turned on and stay on for ~20 minutes after key out, even on a cold engine.
Thanks for the wlecome folks! I think this is going to conclude my "intro".... I'll get a build (more like maintenance and slow restoration) thread up and running soon. Gotta say, I took it up and down the driveway this afternoon and there's something Very appealing about this engine, it spoke ot my soul in a way very few other engines have... doesn't Quite knock the 1987 Honda VFR700 from top spot, but it's a top 3 for sure.
Brian (and Mrs... she said no to the step-stool in a most emphatic manor)
Well not ALL 62's had power windows, there were few "poverty pack" 62's offered with crank windows. Also, you don't need a new door, if it is a 62 door the manual window regulator and crank are plug and play on the 62 doors. I actually converted my power windows to all manual using OEM 60 bits. Easy peasy.
