What engine oil are you running?

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Cary, do you know anything about the Walmart SuperTech synthetic? I use the 10W30 in the 5 quart jug for $13. A hell of a deal, and priced about the same as some high end dino oil.
 
I originally ran Mobil 1 5w30 but oil pressure was low so I went with 0w40. Oil pressure better. I had NO consumption with 5 30 but my trunk drinks 0 40. So this change Ima try Rotella Syn. 5w40. We'll see.
 
I went to the Mobil 1 website and noticed that the cst on 5W-30 is 11.3 as opposed to 10.0 for the 10w-30. I found that strange, but is 11.3 still too low for those who favor the 40w oil? I am thinking about switching to 40W next time.
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by AJP
Cary... thanks for the note re: the SAE donut on the 0-40 M1
...do you have any thoughts on the M1 5W-50 I have seen on the local shelves (Toronto, Canada)... still not mentionned on the Mobil web site....

Good oil but there is no need for you to run it. For most engines, wear decreases as oils get heavier, up to the high 30 weight/low 40 weight point (see the oil faq for a discussion of weight spans). After that, unless there is a specific reason to use it heavier oil simply robs power and mileage. I see no reason to run the 5w-50 instead of 0w-40 or the Rotella 5w-40 (actually since you are in Canada you get the Shell Rotella Synthetic 0w-40 which is better than the Rotella we get in the US).
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A delayed thanks Cary!....I installed the 0w-40 Mobil 1 in October and have used less than 1/2qt in 5000km... so I am now about due for another change....I would be very happy to use the Mobil 1 0w-40 again ... but can't find any locally. Haven't found any of the 0w-40 Rotella synthetic either...but haven't looked to far.

Again... appreciate your guidance on this

regards
Adrian
 
Well to start with, you should be running 10,000-15,000km interverals, not 5,000 km. Availability is hard for me to tell in Canada because you get different oils and I am not there. When in doubt fall back on the manufacture approvals. Any oil that meets (they will be labeled on the back as approved) BMW LL-01, Mercedes 229.3 and/or 229.5, and Porsche OE, will be what you are looking for. These oils will be labled as 0w-30, 5w-30, 0w-40, or 5w-40.

Cary
 
the 80 is bulletproof. I decided not to waste money on synthetic and am happy with dino chevron 10-40 (or whatever) w/ 2-3k intervals-I consider that anal for this truck.

This truck has a 8L capacity! That's alot of frickin oil! I bet the only time the engine sees any wear is startup and even w/ cheap, crappy oil it prob makes little to zed difference if you are fanatical enough to be on this forum. JMO

I think just get a lighter weight for cold season startup
 
FirstToy said:
the 80 is bulletproof. I decided not to waste money on synthetic and am happy with dino chevron 10-40 (or whatever) w/ 2-3k intervals-I consider that anal for this truck.

This truck has a 8L capacity! That's alot of frickin oil! I bet the only time the engine sees any wear is startup and even w/ cheap, crappy oil it prob makes little to zed difference if you are fanatical enough to be on this forum. JMO

I think just get a lighter weight for cold season startup
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The mineral will treat you just fine, but you are incorrect about saving money by using it. Here (in CA) a decent mineral runs in the $2.00-2.50 range per quart. Taking the inexpensive end, of $2.00 and comparing it to Mobil 1 at $6.00 a quart, it is break even on oil cost changing the synthetic at 9k mile intervals instead of 3k intervals for mineral. Add in the cost of two extra oil filters, the time spent changing, and the trouble of disposing of 16 extra courts, and in my book Synthetic is only way to go.
 
no, most of my driving in the 80 is offroad. I'm changing it 3k no matter if it's dino or syn.
my truck is lifted so changing oil is about as easy as airing the tires, it's cheaper but the bottom line for me is I'm not using extra $ for syn b/c there is no point to it (for me).

and if you are leaving the filter in for 6K miles w/ M1, then you can change the filter every other change w/ reg. dino.

I just don't think oil is a big deal in the 80 like it is w/ some other cars. It's a low revving engine, it's built like a locomotive, it's got a huge resivoir... just not a big deal to me anymore.
 
FirstToy said:
no, most of my driving in the 80 is offroad. I'm changing it 3k no matter if it's dino or syn.
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Then as you stated there is absolutely no point in you spending extra for Synth. You would just be throwing money down the drain.
 
Just picked up a case of Chevron 10--30 at Costo today for my first oil change.

I am currently running Delo 15-40 in my Diesel Mercedes, but have also run M1 15-50 in that car. I switched back to the Delo because I finally decided that there are way to many Diesel Mercedes' out there in the world with 300k+ miles on them running dino oil. For me, I'm more comfortable changing the oil at intervals of 5000 and running dino oil then going 10000 on synthetic. Plus, I'll only put about 6k-8k miles per on my 80, so I'll mostly likely just change it twice a year. Doesn't make sense to run synthetic. If I had a sales job putting 2k-3k miles per month on my 80, I might run synthetic and change every 10000.

Any thoughts on the Chevron 10-30? I figured all the name brands are pretty good now and at $19.49/case at Costco it's best deal I can find.

Live in Phoenix, AZ
 
landcruiserguyaz said:
Any thoughts on the Chevron 10-30? I figured all the name brands are pretty good now and at $19.49/case at Costco it's best deal I can find.

Live in Phoenix, AZ
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That 10w-30 Chevron is a good oil, but the Delo 400 15w-40 you are already using in your Damlier-Benz is a better oil, especially given your climate. The nice part is you only have to then keep one oil on the shelf.
 
Anyone else use the Toyota Brand Motor Oil 10W-30? The PO had used it the entire time he had the truck so I thought why change. Oh, and it's about $2.00/qt. I use a Napa Gold Small Filter. 3,000 mile intervals.
 
cary said:
That 10w-30 Chevron is a good oil, but the Delo 400 15w-40 you are already using in your Damlier-Benz is a better oil, especially given your climate. The nice part is you only have to then keep one oil on the shelf.
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I know that somebody is going to tell me to go read the FAQ, but I'll ask this anyway. Why are so many people using the Delo 400? My understanding is that Diesel rated oils have detergeants (sp?) and additives that are specfic to Diesel engines. I know that it has an SL rating so it is "ok" to use it in a gasoline engine, but didn't really think it was "recommended". By know means am I an oil expert, though. Just curious.
 
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