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Castrol 10w 30
What engine oil are you running?
- Thread starter LongMonster
- Start date
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Old wife's tale, long since debunked. Sludge should not be an issue with any name brand oil, unless you have a car that is specific sludge monster, and then the only cure is preventative maintence by using a good synthetic and regular changes. The 80 is easy on oil, so that is not an issue here.
Castrol GTX is a good quality mineral oil. It is not my first choice but changes at 5,000 mile intervals will work just fine.
mtnfj
I'm in Colorado as well. I run Mobil 1 10-40 in the summer and 10-30 in the winter with K&N filters. Even at 20 below (elevation at home is 10,465 ft) my 60 starts right up. Oil changes are usually at about 5000 miles. The odometer is coming up on 206k and the rear of the valve cover gasket leaks but other than that, things are good. Oh, and by the way, the 5qt. jug at Wal Mart is the cheapest way to go.
I'm in Colorado as well. I run Mobil 1 10-40 in the summer and 10-30 in the winter with K&N filters. Even at 20 below (elevation at home is 10,465 ft) my 60 starts right up. Oil changes are usually at about 5000 miles. The odometer is coming up on 206k and the rear of the valve cover gasket leaks but other than that, things are good. Oh, and by the way, the 5qt. jug at Wal Mart is the cheapest way to go.
I'm in Colorado as well. I run Mobil 1 10-40 in the summer and 10-30 in the winter with K&N filters. Even at 20 below (elevation at home is 10,465 ft) my 60 starts right up. Oil changes are usually at about 5000 miles. The odometer is coming up on 206k and the rear of the valve cover gasket leaks but other than that, things are good. Oh, and by the way, the 5qt. jug at Wal Mart is the cheapest way to go.
Umm, Mobil 1 doesn't come in a 10w-40. For your temps you should run a 0w-xx or 5w-xx oil, as they will lube better on startup.
Walmart oil 
M1 10W-30 year round. I've personally driven my 80 300,000+ miles and have never had any engine problems. All original engine parts including the head gasket working just fine. The M1 has carried it through somethin' like 5 New York/Maryland winters and 7 Arizona summers. At about 5,000 miles my mental red light goes on and I change it whenever I get to it after that. I'm sure M1 has been left in there for up to 8k or more at times.
oil
Cary (Please define "great success.")
My Samurai's were beaten often and over revved constantly with the Valvoline and never had any engine failure. The M715 had a 350 chev that was driven "hard" and also never gave me any failure or trouble. Both Chevy and Ford trucks were tow rigs and again, no mechanical failures. https://forum.ih8mud.com/images/smilies/biggrin.gif
Cary (Please define "great success.")
My Samurai's were beaten often and over revved constantly with the Valvoline and never had any engine failure. The M715 had a 350 chev that was driven "hard" and also never gave me any failure or trouble. Both Chevy and Ford trucks were tow rigs and again, no mechanical failures. https://forum.ih8mud.com/images/smilies/biggrin.gif
Basically, I question you on it because when push comes to shove very few people actually have oil related failures. Over on BITOG.com you will find that Valvoline (which I used to run years ago) isn't really highly thought of, in large part because it's additive package seems to be subpar. It's wear numbers are decent however and the truth is that ALL of the name brand mineral oils are good nowdays. Sythetics buy you a little better cold start protection and are good for longer intervals and extreme conditions (i.e. turbo apps where they see 500f bearings) but are not a miracle unto themselves.
I have said it before and will say it again, in the 80, any name brand SM rated mineral oil is good for at least 5,000 mile intervals, and any name brand synthetic is good for at least 7500 mile intervals. If you are changing your oil more than every 5000 miles, don't spend the money on synthetics, you are really wasting it.
- Thread starter
- #49
Thanks for the strong showing and input on your engine oils. I'm surprised at the variety of brands and weights that are being used out there. To each his own it appears.
From what I can gather I think I'll probably stick with the Mobil 1 or Rotella 5w-40. I'll be doing some Walyworld shelf searching to see what seems easiest to consistently find.
Thanks
From what I can gather I think I'll probably stick with the Mobil 1 or Rotella 5w-40. I'll be doing some Walyworld shelf searching to see what seems easiest to consistently find.
Thanks
Good oil but there is no need for you to run it. For most engines, wear decreases as oils get heavier, up to the high 30 weight/low 40 weight point (see the oil faq for a discussion of weight spans). After that, unless there is a specific reason to use it heavier oil simply robs power and mileage. I see no reason to run the 5w-50 instead of 0w-40 or the Rotella 5w-40 (actually since you are in Canada you get the Shell Rotella Synthetic 0w-40 which is better than the Rotella we get in the US).
I can't remember, but they are constantly talking about it on BITOG. For me, skip it, get the Rotella T Synthetic 5w-40 at $13 gallon, run it 7500-10,000 miles per change and you will get the best bang for your buck.
I'll humor you. BTW, this is covered in the FAQ. Rotella T is a group III hydrocracked oil. Oil nuts like to argue about if a Group III is a synthetic oil. The arguement one side is it is, on the other is that it cannot be legally called synthetic in Europe and is isn't of the same quality as group IV PAO and Group V esters. Aditionally, some manufactures (like BMW) will not approve a group III oil for long life service (BMW will only give group III oils a LL-98 designation, not a LL-01 or LL-04).
Here in the US, the arguement has spurred in large part because of what Castrol did about 10 years ago. Basically, prior to 10 years ago, synthetic was only a Group IV or Group V oil. Castrol then changed their "synthetic" to a group III oil which is far cheaper to manufacture. Mobil 1 filed a complaint with FCC (I believe) arguing that calling the Group III oil synthetic was misleading to the public. The FCC ended up ruling it was not. Then what happened then is almost all the major oil manufactures (except Mobil) switched their US synthetics to Group III oils, as they cost about half as much to produce and they could sell them for the same price.
Until recently, Mobil 1 continued to be the only large manufacture in the US that sold Group IV PAO synthetics (I am excluding Amsoil and Redline which are small producers from this discussion). Now some of the other manufactures are trending back to the PAO oils, I believe that some of the new Pennzoil Platnium grades are Group IV, as are the Ashland oil ones (Valvoline/Union 76/Kendall), and the German Castrol (specific 0w-30 that is made in Germany) is. If you want to be sure you are getting a group IV oil, buy Mobil. Shell is unique because they have been HONEST in their pricing and sold their Group III oils at a reduced price to group IV oils, reflecting the lower production costs.
So at the end of the day, what does this mean? Not a whole lot. Group III oils have gotten better over the years. Group IV and V oils still have an edge in long change intervals and cold start pumping. For most use, there is really no pratical difference. In the case of the 80 (and 100) which are very easy on oil, there is very little difference in wear, but the Mobil 1 will hold up better in long change intervals (10,000 miles+) and have a bit better cold start pumping. For the price, there is no question Rotella Synthetic T 5w-40 is the best value for the dollar, Mobil 1 is slightly better but at a higher cost.
Rotella 5w40 at a 6,000 interval.
