What did you do with your Tundra or Sequoia this weekend?

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Finally got around to replacing the liftgate window regulator. One bolt gave me a hard time and had to be cut and drilled out as was rusted to the threaded insert that is embedded in the window, but other than that, fairly straightforward. The old one still operated but was starting to make some concerning noises.

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Need to wrap the shell but I think I found a match 😎
Looks like a good match from my house. I also love that color. There was a guy here in Ruidoso who had that red/orange crewmax with matching camper shell. Looked great
 
Those Husky mats have converted me away from Weathertech. They fit better, feel better, and don't get warped edges after years in the heat.
The “baconing” if you will, was why they were suggested to me over the Weathertechs by a few people. I love them so far and they look great!
 
I bought mine this weekend! Long time Toyota owner, have been driving 4Runners since 13 and a 100 series the last 8.5 years. Excited to build this 2014 Limited! First stop is prototype airbag testing/fitting for work. And then maybe 3” lift with FOX/BDS? View attachment 4187252
I just returned from 3k miles field trip, half is twisty gravel, and can highly recommend Timbren. They are zero maintenance and double as a sway bar. I have them now on both my Tundra and wife's Sequoia.
 
I just returned from 3k miles field trip, half is twisty gravel, and can highly recommend Timbren. They are zero maintenance and double as a sway bar. I have them now on both my Tundra and wife's Sequoia.
A bit difficult to justify, as I work for FOX Factory Inc/BDS Suspension… I know they are highly revered, but we’re modifying our newest product offering to fit the Tundra line(s). We are already running them on the “big 3” products, with some great feedback. After the prototype test fitting is done with the airbags, my Tundra will then go for a new FOX coilover test fitting, and then probably land on a 3” hybrid kit with both offerings working together.
Also, a few of my best mates work in our R&D; they would ridicule the crap out of me for not having our brands installed 😂
 
Got around to doing the suspension on my first gen, shocks/coils/lbj/uca/end-links. Did the GX brakes as well while i was in there. Took it for a drive and blew a fuel line, which was a first for me in any vehicle.
 
I got a great deal on my Tundra due to it being a work truck; dents, dings, scratches, and a beat rear bumper. Had a buddy massage out a few of the dents already. Most of the smaller ones I can live with. Also got some Chemical Guys C4 and P4 compounds to battle the scratches. Lastly, already tended to the rear bumper with a complete replacement and new parking sensors. Still rocking my 100 Series’s vanity plate 😂
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Anyone familiar with gear install? After removing my mud terrains and installing all terrains I noticed a humming noise coming from the diff/diffs between 30-50mph.

I had 5.29 nitro gears installed back in March and only noticed it sometimes during decelerating, but the tires were so loud I rarely heard anything. Now with the quiet all terrains it's driving me nuts.

I've put close to 10k miles on them and towed/off-road plenty and no issues at all, no vibration, no grinding noise, just humming coming from the diff/diffs. I followed the break-in cycle to a T and did the fluid change with no metal shavings at 500 miles. Maybe its time to go back to mud terrains to block out the noise :rofl:.
 
Anyone familiar with gear install? After removing my mud terrains and installing all terrains I noticed a humming noise coming from the diff/diffs between 30-50mph.

I had 5.29 nitro gears installed back in March and only noticed it sometimes during decelerating, but the tires were so loud I rarely heard anything. Now with the quiet all terrains it's driving me nuts.

I've put close to 10k miles on them and towed/off-road plenty and no issues at all, no vibration, no grinding noise, just humming coming from the diff/diffs. I followed the break-in cycle to a T and did the fluid change with no metal shavings at 500 miles. Maybe its time to go back to mud terrains to block out the noise :rofl:.
100% it’s from the diffs and not an out of balance driveshaft or bad u-joint? I’m still learning this platform as a 100 Series transplant, but just thinking through less expensive possibilities than a diff.
 
Gear hum on deceleration only? May go away as you break them in a bit more. May stay forever if there was a sloppy install (bad contact pattern) or the gears themselves are not that great. May want to give a try to a thicker gear oil, like 110 or even 140.
 
Gear hum on deceleration only? May go away as you break them in a bit more. May stay forever if there was a sloppy install (bad contact pattern) or the gears themselves are not that great. May want to give a try to a thicker gear oil, like 110 or even 140.
The installer has 20+ years and the contact patch he sent me was near perfect. I already use a 140 weight. Might be a minion depth issue based on someone’s post on tundras.com
 
The installer has 20+ years and the contact patch he sent me was near perfect. I already use a 140 weight. Might be a minion depth issue based on someone’s post on tundras.com
Do you have pics of the patch on both sides of the teeth?
 
Just the rear and it looks perfect. I’ll try getting one of the front if installer still has it.

I just got off the phone with Zuk who some of you know as a gear guru. He took me down a rabbit hole but I think we know what it is. Wheel bearing going out. He asked if the noise goes away during a turn and I was like YES! Only to the left. I’m going to jack up each side one by one and do a shake down.

I’m hoping that’s the case. I really don’t want to redo the gears.

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Just the rear and it looks perfect. I’ll try getting one of the front if installer still has it.

I just got off the phone with Zuk who some of you know as a gear guru. He took me down a rabbit hole but I think we know what it is. Wheel bearing going out. He asked if the noise goes away during a turn and I was like YES! Only to the left. I’m going to jack up each side one by one and do a shake down.

I’m hoping that’s the case. I really don’t want to redo the gears.

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The patch on the back side can be moved slightly inwards and away from the edge. The front looks perfect. So it is the gears, not the installer.
 
The patch on the back side can be moved slightly inwards and away from the edge. The front looks perfect. So it is the gears, not the installer.
Checked fluid level in diffs and all good with yellowish color, no dark or anything unusual. Going to drain a bit this afternoon and see if there's any large metal debris. No leaks from the diffs either.

Going to check for pinion backlash play by lifting the rear, putting truck in neutral, and move driveshaft back/forth/up/down and if there's any movement or unusual noise.

The final test will be driving at 40-50 on a straight road and putting truck into neutral. If noise disappears instantly it's strictly the gear mesh pattern. If howling stays exactly the same is structural or bearing related.

Something I should have considered, but this is all new to me, is to use a solid sleeve instead of the collapsed crush sleeve. Apparently, when towing heavy the pinion gear wants to get pulled into the ring gear. This forces the pinion shaft forward against the outer pinion bearing. The extreme thrust from towing can compress the sleeve even further creating slack.

I took a trip last month and towed our trailer for a week with a lot of extra weight in the back of the truck. I started noticing a howling noise but thought it was the tires. 😩
 
Checked fluid level in diffs and all good with yellowish color, no dark or anything unusual. Going to drain a bit this afternoon and see if there's any large metal debris. No leaks from the diffs either.

Going to check for pinion backlash play by lifting the rear, putting truck in neutral, and move driveshaft back/forth/up/down and if there's any movement or unusual noise.

The final test will be driving at 40-50 on a straight road and putting truck into neutral. If noise disappears instantly it's strictly the gear mesh pattern. If howling stays exactly the same is structural or bearing related.

Something I should have considered, but this is all new to me, is to use a solid sleeve instead of the collapsed crush sleeve. Apparently, when towing heavy the pinion gear wants to get pulled into the ring gear. This forces the pinion shaft forward against the outer pinion bearing. The extreme thrust from towing can compress the sleeve even further creating slack.

I took a trip last month and towed our trailer for a week with a lot of extra weight in the back of the truck. I started noticing a howling noise but thought it was the tires. 😩
That would explain it.
 
My wife wanted to add something to the new truck and grabbed these from Etsy. I like the recessed stamp logo, but these do fit well on a Limited. Surprised they are actually a casted and coated product and not plastic.
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