What Did You Do With Your 120 Today?
- Thread starter kbahus
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Changed out the front brakes with some Centric coated rotors and Akebono pads. No pictures because everyone knows what brakes look like.
Installed the DrKDSS adapter plates for the LCA, along with some poly bushings.
The bar sits way better on the driver side, and can’t tell much difference on the passenger.
Honestly, this is likely short term. I have a feeling I’ll be ditching KDSS in the future, and running something like a currie antirock sway in the rear. This car basically goes to and from the gym, and to and from camp sites. We use my fiancé’s car for road trips and errands.
The KDSS feels really stiff / aggressive when on rutted out forest service roads. It’s also an absolute pain in the ass to remove and re-attach the sway bar.
The bar sits way better on the driver side, and can’t tell much difference on the passenger.
Honestly, this is likely short term. I have a feeling I’ll be ditching KDSS in the future, and running something like a currie antirock sway in the rear. This car basically goes to and from the gym, and to and from camp sites. We use my fiancé’s car for road trips and errands.
The KDSS feels really stiff / aggressive when on rutted out forest service roads. It’s also an absolute pain in the ass to remove and re-attach the sway bar.
Started on the drawers today!
got sick of pulling my heavy-ass bags and bins out from under my sleeping platform. Drawers are 36” deep and 12” tall. Slides are rated for 260 pounds.
got sick of pulling my heavy-ass bags and bins out from under my sleeping platform. Drawers are 36” deep and 12” tall. Slides are rated for 260 pounds.
Drawers came together nicely!
Now to build the replacement for the second row seats. Gonna turn that into more storage with lids that open up on both the passenger and driver side. Basically you’ll open either second row door, and then lift a lid up.
The top will be a sleeping platform front to back. Probably gonna order more drawer slides to make a little slide for my cooler that goes on top of the drawers.
Now to build the replacement for the second row seats. Gonna turn that into more storage with lids that open up on both the passenger and driver side. Basically you’ll open either second row door, and then lift a lid up.
The top will be a sleeping platform front to back. Probably gonna order more drawer slides to make a little slide for my cooler that goes on top of the drawers.
Thanks man!
Price was my main reason for DIY. Absolutely not the quality of an air down gear up build, but the drawers slide in and out and hold a hundred or so pounds of gear! All for $300 in parts from Lowe’s.
Nothing much to report for this past weekend. After years of shrugging it off I finally caved and installed a dash cam. After seeing a post in the GXOR Fakebook group of someone getting brake checked by a dip**** in an Accord, I pulled the trigger.
Drawers done. On to figuring out the second row seat replacement.
Sleeping platform | drawers | storage is just about done. Work got in the way the last few weekends. Had time today, and I made a lot of progress. All that’s left is making the lids for the storage compartment.
The carpet makes it tough to see, but there’s a lip down the inner edge of the storage compartment cutouts. Got magnets under the carpet in the lip. Magnets will go in the four corners of the lid. Hoping that helps keep it from rattling, while still being easy to access the stuff inside.
Next up is making a drawer slide for my cooler that will mount on top of the drawers. Gonna use the extra wood and drawer slides for that.
The carpet makes it tough to see, but there’s a lip down the inner edge of the storage compartment cutouts. Got magnets under the carpet in the lip. Magnets will go in the four corners of the lid. Hoping that helps keep it from rattling, while still being easy to access the stuff inside.
Next up is making a drawer slide for my cooler that will mount on top of the drawers. Gonna use the extra wood and drawer slides for that.
Thank you! I just grabbed two sheets of the mid grade 1/2” plywood from Lowe’s it was priced between the maple and the crummy mdf. Nice smooth finish, but definitely not as nice as the cabinet grade maple. The paint took to it well.
The adjustable feet helped a lot because that was a tough spot to measure precisely!
Woop woop, finished the lids today!
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Made a fridge / cooler slide. Gotta paint it, and install it this week after work. It’s getting a piano hinge on the front and limiter straps or gas struts in the back so it can tilt and slide.
Well my project was supposed to be a weekend project a few weeks ago, but of course things didn't go according to plan. But I finished this past Sunday.
First issue... This was my first 5 wheel rotation and the first time removing my wheels since getting my new wheels and tires installed. MF'ers torqued one of the lugs to hell. I bent the lug wrench in 2 dimensions. I'm a 200+ lb guy jumping on a 3 foot pipe to get it to budge. I thought it finally gave, but it was the lug wrench that was giving. I had an old ratchet wrench I didn't care too much about, found a 4+ foot pipe and after too many colorful words it turned. Amazingly the lug wasn't stripped.
Now that I had it off the ground. I finally fixed the rusted through fuel tank strap. I replaced both even though the front one was in very good condition, but as you can see the rear had rusted all the way through. I replaced the straps with the powder coated ones from Rock Auto and got OEM strap covers and hardware.
Installed new UCA's and YOUTUBERS LIE. It's not so simple. Only because the way they put the bolt for the UCAs in. On the drivers side I had to struggle to get it past a wiring bundle of some sort. On the passenger side, I had to unbolt the power steering reservoir, to fenagle it by one of the hoses. Putting them back in I went the other way to save future me some headache.
I was also going to put a 1/4 inch strut spacer in, to help reduce my rake. Unfortunately the Ironman struts I have, the strut tower bolts weren't long enough to accommodate even a 1/4 inch spacer. So, At least for now I still have the rake. Maybe I'll get a larger spacer, that has its own bolts. I have about a 2" rake. Everybody said it would settle. But a year later not too much settling.
Also, I was only trying to disconnect my front sway bar to be able to remove the struts, but broke a bolt, so for the immediate time I'm sway bar free.
Then I replaced the splash guards. These cheapies on ebay seem a lot better, thicker and more flexible than the OEMs.
Then while I had the front skid plate off (oh yeah, I changed the oil too) and the fuel tank skid plate off I sanded the surface rust off and spray painted them. So when my truck rolls over because I don't have a sway bar, those skid plates will look marvelous for those people prying my body out.
After I fix the under trunk spare tire assembly, I think I'll be done with projects for a while, or until I see something else I can't live with out.
First issue... This was my first 5 wheel rotation and the first time removing my wheels since getting my new wheels and tires installed. MF'ers torqued one of the lugs to hell. I bent the lug wrench in 2 dimensions. I'm a 200+ lb guy jumping on a 3 foot pipe to get it to budge. I thought it finally gave, but it was the lug wrench that was giving. I had an old ratchet wrench I didn't care too much about, found a 4+ foot pipe and after too many colorful words it turned. Amazingly the lug wasn't stripped.
Now that I had it off the ground. I finally fixed the rusted through fuel tank strap. I replaced both even though the front one was in very good condition, but as you can see the rear had rusted all the way through. I replaced the straps with the powder coated ones from Rock Auto and got OEM strap covers and hardware.
Installed new UCA's and YOUTUBERS LIE. It's not so simple. Only because the way they put the bolt for the UCAs in. On the drivers side I had to struggle to get it past a wiring bundle of some sort. On the passenger side, I had to unbolt the power steering reservoir, to fenagle it by one of the hoses. Putting them back in I went the other way to save future me some headache.
I was also going to put a 1/4 inch strut spacer in, to help reduce my rake. Unfortunately the Ironman struts I have, the strut tower bolts weren't long enough to accommodate even a 1/4 inch spacer. So, At least for now I still have the rake. Maybe I'll get a larger spacer, that has its own bolts. I have about a 2" rake. Everybody said it would settle. But a year later not too much settling.
Also, I was only trying to disconnect my front sway bar to be able to remove the struts, but broke a bolt, so for the immediate time I'm sway bar free.
Then I replaced the splash guards. These cheapies on ebay seem a lot better, thicker and more flexible than the OEMs.
Then while I had the front skid plate off (oh yeah, I changed the oil too) and the fuel tank skid plate off I sanded the surface rust off and spray painted them. So when my truck rolls over because I don't have a sway bar, those skid plates will look marvelous for those people prying my body out.
After I fix the under trunk spare tire assembly, I think I'll be done with projects for a while, or until I see something else I can't live with out.
I like freedom off-road UCA over SPC. No questioned ask on warranty unlike SPC.
Finished with the drawers / storage / sleeping platform / cooler slide.
Thank you for the kind words! I’m really happy with the end result, and can’t wait to do some camping to test it.
The paint is Valspar flat black interior paint + primer. If I were to do it again, I’d probably do spray paint to save time.
On the front sway bar removal, if you get a HD 24mm Nolathane rear sway bar…it fixes 80% of the front sway even without a front sway bar.
And I need to find me a factory gas tank skid plate that’s in good condition like yours…mine got banged up pretty good on poison spider and golden spike trails in Moab