What Did You Do With Your 120 Today? (3 Viewers)

Joined
Dec 24, 2015
Messages
493
Location
New Orleans
They're good. Definitely not too harsh or anything. I honestly could go stiffer, but I was afraid of the 886s without extra weight. I was planning on 886s, adding an RRW bumper and winch , but cancelled after 11 weeks and a promise to 'get it built in the next 30 days.'
23.25 F
23.5 R
Thanks for the measurement. At this point, I’m leaning towards the 885. I have a dissent aluminum bumper and it doesn’t weigh that much to move up the 886.
 
Joined
Dec 14, 2020
Messages
162
Location
Missouri
Finished up the rear cargo area sound deadening. Added a 7/16" layer of waterproof foam carpet padding (which cost all of $12 at Menards). This filled the gap between the cargo area panels and the floor, as well as the 3rd row anchors and the floor. Everything is now flush, which should make loading easier, and it should be even quieter than it was with just the foam/foil sound deadener.

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Joined
May 27, 2011
Messages
953
Location
South MS
They're good. Definitely not too harsh or anything. I honestly could go stiffer, but I was afraid of the 886s without extra weight. I was planning on 886s, adding an RRW bumper and winch , but cancelled after 11 weeks and a promise to 'get it built in the next 30 days.'
23.25 F
23.5 R

I initially installed some 886s. Removed them after a day and put stocks back on at center clip on 5100s. They were topped out and very stiff under weight.
 

Toyoland66

SILVER Star
Joined
Feb 3, 2004
Messages
649
Location
Colorado
Starting a weekend project to replace front wheel bearings and reboot CVs on both sides with all new OEM parts

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Tried not to die while putting 20 tons of pressure through Chinese steel and home brew fixtures by hiding behind a sheet of MDF with a face shield on hoping that the bearing would pop loose before the whole assembly buckles and shoots sideways from the pressure. Discovered that even though I could build a fixture to press the wheel hub out of the wheel bearing I still need a bearing splitter to get the outer bearing race off of the wheel hub.

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thats 1/2” thick 3x3 angle, the force it takes to pop the hub out of the bearing is no joke.
 
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Joined
Dec 30, 2017
Messages
108
Location
Montana
Starting a weekend project to replace front wheel bearings and reboot CVs on both sides with all new OEM parts

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Tried not to die while putting 20 tons of pressure through Chinese steel and home brew fixtures by hiding behind a sheet of MDF with a face shield on hoping that the bearing would pop loose before the whole assembly buckles and shoots sideways from the pressure. Discovered that even though I could build a fixture to press the wheel hub out of the wheel bearing I still need a bearing splitter to get the outer bearing race off of the wheel hub.

View attachment 2612486

thats 1/2” thick 3x3 angle, the force it takes to pop the hub out of the bearing is no joke.

This is why I just bought pre assembled bearings and hubs. Cost a bit more but saves so much headache. Took me 3 hours for both sides
 

Toyoland66

SILVER Star
Joined
Feb 3, 2004
Messages
649
Location
Colorado
This is why I just bought pre assembled bearings and hubs. Cost a bit more but saves so much headache. Took me 3 hours for both sides

getting the old wheel hub out of the bearings is much more difficult than pressing together the new assembly.

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But cleaned up and reassembled it’s very satisfying and I like that it’s all OEM parts

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Joined
Apr 21, 2020
Messages
9
Location
California
I built a rear door fold down table, ideas that I picked up from some posts here and FB. I ordered the stainless panel from Home Depot, used 1X1 aluminum angle for the sides, leftover wood from a flooring project, various bolts and nuts, rivets and paracord.

Looking for a solution to lock the table in the upright position. For now, I just have the paracord loop jammed between the table and side bracket. Any ideas?

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Joined
Oct 17, 2012
Messages
44
I built a rear door fold down table, ideas that I picked up from some posts here and FB. I ordered the stainless panel from Home Depot, used 1X1 aluminum angle for the sides, leftover wood from a flooring project, various bolts and nuts, rivets and paracord.

Looking for a solution to lock the table in the upright position. For now, I just have the paracord loop jammed between the table and side bracket. Any ideas?

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On my original FB group post I just mounted a spring plunger pin to a 90* bracket and drilled a corresponding hole in the table edge. Works really well. I’ve only been running the 1 but 2 would be better. But on my diy I run the boat seat type hinges that also hold themselves in place so 1 plunger pin was good enough.

The other design I initially toyed with was a plain latch style clamp, the ones that look like miniature versions of the latches used on tire carriers. Cheaper to just do the plunger pin though.
 

Toyoland66

SILVER Star
Joined
Feb 3, 2004
Messages
649
Location
Colorado
Old and busted vs brand new hotness

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rebooting the CVs isn’t too bad a job. Nowhere near as messy as a SFA knuckle job but the cleanup is the most tedious part. I need to do some serious degreasing of my front suspension and wheel Wells. There’s a lot of grease slung around down there from the failed boots.
 
Joined
Apr 21, 2020
Messages
9
Location
California
On my original FB group post I just mounted a spring plunger pin to a 90* bracket and drilled a corresponding hole in the table edge. Works really well. I’ve only been running the 1 but 2 would be better. But on my diy I run the boat seat type hinges that also hold themselves in place so 1 plunger pin was good enough.

The other design I initially toyed with was a plain latch style clamp, the ones that look like miniature versions of the latches used on tire carriers. Cheaper to just do the plunger pin though.
I'll try the spring loaded plunger, maybe two of them since I have the additional weight on the table.
Thanks
 

Toyoland66

SILVER Star
Joined
Feb 3, 2004
Messages
649
Location
Colorado
Joined
Apr 28, 2020
Messages
26
Location
North Lake Tahoe
Awesome job, I have been wanting to do something similar. Do you have any photos of the under bumper structure for the carrier? Is that the 4x innovations latch and hinge and how did you make it clear the rear door? Really looks good!
I worked with a local welding shop. I culled the design together from all the different versions others have posted of this arrangement. I hadn't seen anyone relocate the hitch above the rock slider with out chopping the frame and running a cross beam. This utilizes the existing factory cross piece and leaves nearly all the spare tire space for a tank or whatever but still rates enough for a good tow. Also hadn't seen anyone hang the traction boards from the inside of the swing arm. I wanted to maintain some rearward vision and not have them sticking up and also wanted to avoid spending on a mount view 4x innovations latch modified to fit tightly to the bumper cover, 4x innovations tire toyota tire mount, Mill Tech offroad spindle hinge and 4x4 labs ladder kit w/hi lift jack.
Awesome job, I have been wanting to do something similar. Do you have any photos of the under bumper structure for the carrier? Is that the 4x innovations latch and hinge and how did you make it clear the rear door? Really looks good!
Thanks.... I'm happy with it!....... I'll get more pics up.
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Joined
Dec 2, 2019
Messages
273
Location
Oregon
Whoop Whoop...disabled “rain-sensing” function on windshield wipers. I hate that feature...
There are 2 black housings attached to the windshield, behind the rear view mirror.
The bigger one (on passenger side) is the one you want.
Along the bottom edge there is a long “U” clip. Gently pull that out. A little squeezing and twisting might be necessary, but be gentle.
Once out, wiggle the main box off its internal mounting bracket. Again, be gentle.
Now you’ll see the (only) wire attached. Disconnect it from the harness and you’re done.
Reassemble...gently.
You should now have control of the wipers, using the intermittent settings as they are intended to be used. No “nanny state” rain sensing.
Enjoy your new mastery of the wipers
 
Joined
Dec 14, 2020
Messages
162
Location
Missouri
Received a pair of SRQ Fabrications T4R front recovery points. These things appear beefy; they are made out of 1/4" steel and bolt to both sides of the front frame horns/radiator support. Two plates of 1/4" are welded together at the recovery eyelet, so they are even beefier there. They also came with grade 8 bolts. I was able to get them for $119 shipped due to a sale they had last week. I bought them over other options due to the lower price, but the fact that they still bolted to multiple parts of the frame. Didn't care that they weren't powdercoated as I like paint for ease-of-touch-up. They are currently getting a few coats of primer prior to a few more coats of Majic Farmall Red tractor paint; I'll install them in a couple of weeks (enamel tractor paint has a 24-hour dry time between coats - so it's gonna take awhile).

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