What Did You Do To Your Diesel Today (WDYDTYDT)

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and if you are that high on the dash temp gauge you are near complete total meltdown, get a proper water temp gauge hooked up.... first thing
This.
I kind of have the opposite problem; my Hilux came with an A pillar full of gauges, most of which are crap. the temp gauge reads high when the dash gauge is showing mid range. The sensor is installed in the upper radiator hose.

The volt gauge shows 1-2 volts lower than what the battery voltage actually is. I assume the rest of the gauges have similar accuracy issues. I will eventually tear out all of those gauges and their wiring when I find a replacement for the A pillar trim.
 
Today I took my diesel to the shipper to send to the US for a project there.
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So this happened....

One of the last things I was doing in Dubai before coming home to the US for the holidays with family was to drive the re-engined troopy for the first time. It has a freshened 1HZ with a mild Safari turbo kit on it. I drove it for about 10 km before noting that the temp gauge had topped out suddenly (I think suddenly at least). I got it to where I could stop safely, let it cool down and then drove it back to the shop with the newly installed (very effective) heater going full blast and the needle about 50% on the temp gauge.

I'm now back in Florida and I got a couple of photos.
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It is the middle of the night there. I've looked as closely as I can but I can't really see a single point of failure of the head gasket. Wondering if any of you with greater experience might be able to tell me anything about what I am seeing here? 5 and 6 look the worst. I am a bit worried about a cracked head.

I can't quite remember if we used a grade 3, 5 or 7 (special order) after plaining the head. Feel a little like a doofas over all this.

I will say it ran like a champ. Really enjoyed the change from the 1FZ-F to the mild turboed 1HZ and am looking forward to when this is sorted. I'd really like to be doing at least some of this myself but I am relegated to being nothing more than a spectator. :-(
 
would have had to see it freshly opened to see the failure point,
get the head pressure tested, and check block and head for flatness again as it got hot
my HG failure was that my gasket was too thin and the head bottomed out on the liner protrusion and didnt let the head crush the mls gasket properly, so it leaked kind of 'everywhere', but that was on a 3b not HZ and i dont know the particulars of your liner/head situation
 
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Thank you. Initial examination suggests that the head isn't cracked at least. Waiting for more info.
 
Thank you. Initial examination suggests that the head isn't cracked at least. Waiting for more info.
most of the time you can see the cracks with the dye but sometimes they are internal....
if you didnt use a toyota gasket last time... i would
that was my issue
 
most of the time you can see the cracks with the dye but sometimes they are internal....
if you didnt use a toyota gasket last time... i would
that was my issue
We've been using Mr. Toyoda's parts by and large, with some aftermarket from Engine Australia. They curate really nice rebulid kits. Pretty sure this gasket came from Toyota.
 
Not my diesel but helping a friend. Baseline a 1HDFT that came from Dubai. In the garage on the stand ready to roll.
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Not my diesel but helping a friend. Baseline a 1HDFT that came from Dubai. In the garage on the stand ready to roll.
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Cripes! She looks rough.

If it is helpful, I recently swapped in a 400 USD Chinese pump on my FT in Dubai and the engine ran just fine. We had an issue with getting the tach to read but we did not ever really figure out why. We reinstalled the original pump rebuilt by Bosch in Dubai. It turned out the pump was in bad shape with a cracked casing and a bunch of internals that needed changing--even on a relatively low-mileage engine.



Do you know anything about the provenance of your engine? It does not have the EGR on it so that argues against it being out of an JDM HDJ81 like mine was.
 
Cripes! She looks rough.

If it is helpful, I recently swapped in a 400 USD Chinese pump on my FT in Dubai and the engine ran just fine. We had an issue with getting the tach to read but we did not ever really figure out why. We reinstalled the original pump rebuilt by Bosch in Dubai. It turned out the pump was in bad shape with a cracked casing and a bunch of internals that needed changing--even on a relatively low-mileage engine.



Do you know anything about the provenance of your engine? It does not have the EGR on it so that argues against it being out of an JDM HDJ81 like mine was.

Some HDJ81s had no EGR, just depended on the region.
 
Replacing a P/S pump today on one of the HDJ81s. We have another which is leaking, I was planning to reseal both. But, when this one started sounding like a jar of marbles, I decided to replace.

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I was pleasantly surprised how easy of a job this was.

Is there a "correct" tool for removing the P/S shaft nut without marring the gear? I used a leather strap wrench along with my impact.
 
If a 1HDT/FT pump is installed wrong it can result in internal damage.

Signs of internal damage;
-excessively noisy pump
-idle bounces around
-power loss

Cheers
 
If a 1HDT/FT pump is installed wrong it can result in internal damage.

Signs of internal damage;
-excessively noisy pump
-idle bounces around
-power loss

Cheers
is this one of those "ask me how i know " scenarios
 
is this one of those "ask me how i know " scenarios


Just experience man from working on a lot of diesels. Some call it “pump pull through” if you can even find people who know anything about the details of these engines. 1HDFTE has a much more robust (larger) shaft in the pump as well as better (stronger) mounting of the pump to both the block and timing case. Clearly Toyota made improvements when the 1HDx became electronic.

Here is another one for ya, automatic equipped 80-series with a 1HDT/FT uses a small spring on the governor inside the injection pump. This spring helps compensate idle when you put the transmission in drive or reverse. If it is worn out, you will never get your idle right. On top of this IP shops never replace it because they can’t test the pumps under load, ie when in D or R of an automatic. It’s also only on non-EGR automatic Cruisers, EGR FT uses a different setup on the governor. There is also zero specs or tests to perform on this spring to figure out if it is still good or not.

Manual transmission has none of it.

1HDFTE also has none of these mechanical items which can be difficult to diagnose.

Cheers
 
Just experience man from working on a lot of diesels. Some call it “pump pull through” if you can even find people who know anything about the details of these engines. 1HDFTE has a much more robust (larger) shaft in the pump as well as better (stronger) mounting of the pump to both the block and timing case. Clearly Toyota made improvements when the 1HDx became electronic.

Here is another one for ya, automatic equipped 80-series with a 1HDT/FT uses a small spring on the governor inside the injection pump. This spring helps compensate idle when you put the transmission in drive or reverse. If it is worn out, you will never get your idle right. On top of this IP shops never replace it because they can’t test the pumps under load, ie when in D or R of an automatic. It’s also only on non-EGR automatic Cruisers, EGR FT uses a different setup on the governor. There is also zero specs or tests to perform on this spring to figure out if it is still good or not.

Manual transmission has none of it.

1HDFTE also has none of these mechanical items which can be difficult to diagnose.

Cheers
IH8Mud needs a "Useful Info" button
 
Found a huge split or crack in my 13BT's intake hose.
Anyone know of a sub that has the little port for the vacuum line?
Merry Xmas too!

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Been waiting for parts to finish this FT. It will go into a LHD 105 mated with a H152.
IP and injectors will be ready tomorrow. Upgraded fuel pin and cover from Trundles. ACL bearings and Turbo arrived. I'm eager to finish it and start it on the bench. Cylinders look great. Meanwhile cleaned it up a bit. Black parts powder coated epoxy Cardinal BK208.
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