What Did You Do To Your Diesel Today (WDYDTYDT)

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Today I painted Schrodinger's 1HZ in prep for assembly.
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And special bonus pic:
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Engine Australia's special piston oiler/piston cooler
 
Weekend spilled into this past week. Drove California gulch, engineer, cinnamon, then hoped over to Crested Butte, did schofield, and then black bear on our way back. All while towing a patriot campers x2. Got 14mpgs on the big offroading days, and 19 on just highway day.

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Heretic said:
what for what & why?
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Pulling the A442F auto out of my 97 HDJ81. Replacing it with an H152F 5 speed manual. The auto has been fine but I don't love it and I'd rather spend the money I would have spent on valve bodies etc. on a manual transmission
 
ikarus said:
Pulling the A442F auto out of my 97 HDJ81. Replacing it with an H152F 5 speed manual. The auto has been fine but I don't love it and I'd rather spend the money I would have spent on valve bodies etc. on a manual transmission
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Your going to love it. I think the manual really pairs well with the diesel is what truly makes these things a blast to drive.
 
barrett1 said:
Your going to love it. I think the manual really pairs well with the diesel is what truly makes these things a blast to drive.
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I'm stoked. Do you have a diesel 80? Not too many in Utah
 
ikarus said:
Pulling the A442F auto out of my 97 HDJ81. Replacing it with an H152F 5 speed manual. The auto has been fine but I don't love it and I'd rather spend the money I would have spent on valve bodies etc. on a manual transmission
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Yes - IME most autos do not do well with diesels unless they are a close ratio with plenty of different gear ratios (at least more than 3-4, preferably more than 5 - my BMW X1 gas powered has a ZF 8 speed), and have a good locking torque converter.

My Hilux is rather underpowered with the 5L NA 3 liter and I would hate it with an auto. Fortunately it has an ok 5 speed manual (G52) but maybe someday I will go with a better more robust trans (R15x) and transfer case.
 
barrett1 said:
View attachment 3970224Yes sir, an hdj81, manual with lockers. I'm in Ogden. You in Utah?
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Rad. Yeah I'm down in Draper.

Heretic said:
Yes - IME most autos do not do well with diesels unless they are a close ratio with plenty of different gear ratios (at least more than 3-4, preferably more than 5 - my BMW X1 gas powered has a ZF 8 speed), and have a good locking torque converter.

My Hilux is rather underpowered with the 5L NA 3 liter and I would hate it with an auto. Fortunately it has an ok 5 speed manual (G52) but maybe someday I will go with a better more robust trans (R15x) and transfer case.
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Agreed. There's a long winding mountain road that I drive on all the time and I need to have better control over engine braking going down, and speed/power going up. The up-down-up-down shifting is rough trying to maintain speed going up. Plus I just think it'll be fun. This will be my 6th or 7th manual car and I've missed having a manual for a couple years now.
 
Valve job complete along with coolant system flush. New OEM radiator,thermostat and associated hoses. Timing belt, tensioner and water pump. Oil pressure sensor and some other odds and ends. Thanks @rick_d for lending me some SSTs knowledge bombs.

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Thank you for posting this @SKULLGRINDER. What is happening here? I've just completed my first 1HZ valve shimming on the Schrodinger motor (under proper Swedish supervision I hasten to add) and today I found that the valve clearance was way off on the 1HZ I was going to put into my troopy. Is that some kind of fixture to allow you to compress the buckets so you can get the shim out without pulling the camshaft off? If so, that is a tool that would be very nice to have. Where did you get it if you don't mind my asking. We've been pulling the camshaft off each time.

And speaking of which, I'd be interested if anyone has an opinion as to what the effect would be if the clearance is very small. On the first three intakes I was finding 0.06mm to 0.08mm. My understanding is that it should be 0.15 to 0.25mm. This engine came in an Omani diesel 80 which ran fine but frankly was gutless.

And in other news today I put in the oil drain for the turbo going into Schrodinger:
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John Young said:
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Thank you for posting this @SKULLGRINDER. What is happening here? I've just completed my first 1HZ valve shimming on the Schrodinger motor (under proper Swedish supervision I hasten to add) and today I found that the valve clearance was way off on the 1HZ I was going to put into my troopy. Is that some kind of fixture to allow you to compress the buckets so you can get the shim out without pulling the camshaft off? If so, that is a tool that would be very nice to have. Where did you get it if you don't mind my asking. We've been pulling the camshaft off each time.

And speaking of which, I'd be interested if anyone has an opinion as to what the effect would be if the clearance is very small. On the first three intakes I was finding 0.06mm to 0.08mm. My understanding is that it should be 0.15 to 0.25mm. This engine came in an Omani diesel 80 which ran fine but frankly was gutless.

And in other news today I put in the oil drain for the turbo going into Schrodinger:
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Here is a link to the tool:
www.asrparts.com

Toyota SST Valve Clearance Adjusting Tool 1HD-T 1HZ

Genuine Toyota Land Cruiser SST valve shim clearance adjusting tool. For 1HD-T, 1HZ, L, and C Series Diesel engines Toyota PART NUMBER 09248-64011
www.asrparts.com www.asrparts.com

Correct it compresses the bucket allowing the shim to sneak out.
.15-.25mm for intake per FSM
.35-.45mm for exhaust per FSM
Should aim to be in middle range as far as clearance goes
 
Thanks SG! I think I am going to get one of those clever little tools from Al Futtaim the sole Toyota parts distributor here.
 
ikarus said:
Rad. Yeah I'm down in Draper.



Agreed. There's a long winding mountain road that I drive on all the time and I need to have better control over engine braking going down, and speed/power going up. The up-down-up-down shifting is rough trying to maintain speed going up. Plus I just think it'll be fun. This will be my 6th or 7th manual car and I've missed having a manual for a couple years now.
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I've almost always had at least one vehicle with a manual trans. But when I decided I needed AWD for coming/going from my home (especially in the winter), I decided I preferred an 8 speed auto trans for a daily driver. My X1 is about 12 years old, has 120K miles on it, and a few dents - but I don't want anything newer, not as long as it works just as well as when I bought it 11 years ago. I may keep it until I die as I only put about 5K miles per year on it now that I am retired.

The ZF8 in my X1 is great, even for descents. I have paddle shifters, but the stick also allows me to shift up or down, and it does have decent engine braking for an auto-trans (although the turbo 4 is high reving so not as much as some engines). I can also force it to stay in a particular gear with the paddle shift, regardless of RPM. If I use the stick and put it in sport mode it will shift up/down on its own closer to what I would want. If I shift down on a descent it is fairly smart about shifting down more as I slow down - no coasting.

In short, for a daily driver, I like it, especially for traffic. This would be the auto trans I would choose for a diesel if I had to choose an auto-trans. That or a DSG - which would probably be better yet as it would be a faster shift. Either transmission does a shift faster than I can with a clutch and stick shift, especially under load. That said, I would want an auto for backcountry off-roading, especially if I was alone.

The only things I don't like is having to press a button on the stick to engage (shift from park to forward or reverse), and the fact that if I open a door the car stops and goes into park, and a few other quirks for "safety". I also wouldn't want traction or descent control for off-roading.
 
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