WeBoost & Wilson Pro Cell Boosters - Code "MUDWEBOOST" at "AllTechSource.com" - Ends Nov. 31, 2020 (1 Viewer)

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I just wanted to say I ordered an OTR one from them and wow did it make a difference. I needed a better cell booster for work (oil field) since my work depends on me having a good Hotspot in the field and it took me from barely one bar to 4 in some places. I plan on buying another one before month end for another personal rig. I appreciate all the hard work that went into making this possible.
And we really appreciate your thoughts and feedback, thank you for taking the time to share that. If you happen to remember next time at work, a picture of your setup and your work areas would be great! I’m trying to collect pictures for a project. I’m thinking a picture of your rig with antenna showing, with your work area as the background will do nicely. Maybe throw in a nice sunrise/sunset as the back-background ;)!

Also, hope you guys don’t mind me sharing some of your feedback/pictures from this thread for a YouTube project I am working on. Thanks and keep them coming please!
 
Just placed an order:-


Order details
ProductTotal
Drive Reach OTR Fleet 471254 × 1$524.99
Subtotal:$524.99
Discount:-$105.00
Shipping:Free Shipping
Tax:$0.00
Payment method:PayPal
Total:$419.99


I won't have time to install it till after Christmas. Already bought MTS, Crawl Control and now, this. Nice Christmas presents for me. :p I do have plan to travel and work from remote location next year. So this will become handy. Thank you !
 
Just placed an order:-


Order details
ProductTotal
Drive Reach OTR Fleet 471254 × 1$524.99
Subtotal:$524.99
Discount:-$105.00
Shipping:Free Shipping
Tax:$0.00
Payment method:PayPal
Total:$419.99


I won't have time to install it till after Christmas. Already bought MTS, Crawl Control and now, this. Nice Christmas presents for me. :p I do have plan to travel and work from remote location next year. So this will become handy. Thank you !
Sweet, thanks for sharing bud!
 
Thanks @SharpeCat for setting this up. I originally purchased this from TW, but this thread appears to be more active.

For those who are wiring this straight to a constant source, how are you wiring this? I’m concerned about having the booster always on and am looking to have a switch to turn the booster off. Currently, I wired this to my blue sea panel. However, I’m now looking at other integrated switches like spod or switch pro paired with a power tray (this is getting pricey) as i have a few things connect - fridge, camera, etc.


I did purchase an additional Wilson magnetic antenna that is smaller as I don’t have a clean way to mount the longer antenna supplies.

Specifically the “rsrp0" or "rsrp1” values
The cell signal started around -115 to -117. The booster increase the signal to -76 to -85.

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85908DD5-F8C3-4F03-84F3-2719838443D8.jpg
 
Thanks @SharpeCat for setting this up. I originally purchased this from TW, but this thread appears to be more active.

For those who are wiring this straight to a constant source, how are you wiring this? I’m concerned about having the booster always on and am looking to have a switch to turn the booster off. Currently, I wired this to my blue sea panel. However, I’m now looking at other integrated switches like spod or switch pro paired with a power tray (this is getting pricey) as i have a few things connect - fridge, camera, etc.


I did purchase an additional Wilson magnetic antenna that is smaller as I don’t have a clean way to mount the longer antenna supplies.

Specifically the “rsrp0" or "rsrp1” values
The cell signal started around -115 to -117. The booster increase the signal to -76 to -85.

View attachment 2491578

View attachment 2491579

View attachment 2491580

I "re-engineered" a Powetrays unit to fit my LC. They do not currently offer a solution for Land Cruisers. . .I did send Maverick (owner of Powertrays) info on my mod for reference. Below are some photos. I wired my WeBoost to my sPod, as like you, I didn't want a constant power draw. Here are some photos and a link to my booster installation:


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If you already have one, it is easy to configure with a Switch-Pros, and it sounds like the same with a Spod. You could also wire it to a switched power source instead of a constant on. I suppose you could set it up with a relay (at the end of the day, Switch-Pros and Spod are essentially fancy relays), but that seems like overkill if you'd just switch on ignition - I don't imagine they draw much power.
 
Thanks @SharpeCat for setting this up. I originally purchased this from TW, but this thread appears to be more active.

For those who are wiring this straight to a constant source, how are you wiring this? I’m concerned about having the booster always on and am looking to have a switch to turn the booster off. Currently, I wired this to my blue sea panel. However, I’m now looking at other integrated switches like spod or switch pro paired with a power tray (this is getting pricey) as i have a few things connect - fridge, camera, etc.


I did purchase an additional Wilson magnetic antenna that is smaller as I don’t have a clean way to mount the longer antenna supplies.

Specifically the “rsrp0" or "rsrp1” values
The cell signal started around -115 to -117. The booster increase the signal to -76 to -85.

View attachment 2491578

View attachment 2491579

View attachment 2491580

This thread is definitely better about sharing information. I wired mine up to a switch that I already have that is wired to a constant on. I believe the power draw on this and the other device is minimal, so I do not have a relay but may add one for peace of mind. I used the inline 10A mini fuse that came with it as a safety precaution.

I also got similar results. Around -114 at the worst and -76 at the best.
 
After I made a comment on another member's post about signal strength, I received a PM from someone giving me a more technical explanation of how to measure signal strength. I think my comment was something along the lines of "So you went from 2 bars to 5 bars for the laymans like myself." Regardless, it seems as though the number of bars is not a good measure of signal strength as it can vary by phone (i.e. iPhone vs Samsung vs LG, etc.). For those who want to dive into a little more, here's the article: How to Check Your Phone's Signal Strength | dBm & Top Apps

For those who don't want to read the article, I'll summarize. Signal strength is measured in decibels, much like that of sound. However, it isn't the same dB as sound, but rather dBm. Don't ask what the m stands for. If you cared that much you'd have read the article. but the closer to 0 the better.

Before turning on my WeBoost Drive Reach OTR Fleet model, I was pretty constant at -110 dBm. As you can see on my phone, I had approximately 2 bars (again, arbitrary and not a good measure). This dBm measurement was not constant. It fluctuated a bit. The worst that I saw was -114 dBm and the best was probably -97 dBm. Regardless, -110 dBm seemed to be the "return to normal" after brief changes in signal strength either direction, so that's what I'm going to use as my baseline for the un-boosted signal.

1605629420072.png


After powering on the booster, it seemed to be pretty consistently -76 or -77 dBm.

1605629361831.png


So that's an overall improvement of about 34 dBm. and a 38 dBm improvement if you go from worst to best.

I found that signal strength was best when the phone was within about 3" of the internal antenna. My WeBoost owners manual calls for mounting the internal antenna 18 to 16" away from the intended use area of the phone. I did find signal improvement in this range, but not as good as the 2-3" area.

I often find myself using the Bluetooth in my truck and keeping my phone in the cupholder area of the center console. I think I'm going to permanently mount the internal antenna in the area below the AC controls.

I mounted it with one extension and the spring.

1605629452580.png


It's pretty tall above the cab, so I'm going to look into folding mounts that don't break the bank.

1605629477276.png
 
What is the best model to get for remote areas that offers the strongest signal and is already future proof (4G,LTE,5G)?
Is the newer model (472154) better than the (471154) or the (470210) as it relates to signal strength and antenna quality?
 
Greetings all.

I now have the weboost installed on the top of the Troopy with a rhino rack mount on the alucab pop top. I will post a review in the 70's section under Portland Troopy Build.

Thanks very much to Sharpecat for putting this together and to inukshuk on the Rhino mount lead.
 
I plan to do a writeup on the booster in the Portland Troopy Build thread but haven't had any dry weather in Portland lately to take some pics.

I did use it for the first time last weekend. It did boost the signal from one to four bars. Only downside is that you need to be using your phone within 2-3 feet of the internal antenna. I can definitely see it being useful though.

I'll bet AllTech might honor the code if you called them.?
 
Is the MUDWEBOOST code for 20% off still active?

The 20% ended November 30. AllTechSource dropped the publicly available 10% off on the same day and our code (which was also changed) was reduced to 10%. It's not as great as it was, but the free shipping is like an additional 5% value.
 
Installed my booster today (Drive Reach Fleet OTR). Ran a hot from my sPod through the firewall to the passenger rear. Mounted the Reach unit and power supply on the face of my ARB drawers using Velcro. Mounted the antenna to my Frontrunner rack using the FR tilting antenna mount, and routed the cable down the side of the rear hatch, then up under the weather stripping and under the drawers. Interior antenna is mounted on the dash just above the glovebox. All wiring is hidden under interior trim panels except for the exterior antenna cable where it enters the rear compartment.

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I got around to installing my Wilson antenna on the roof. Have my internal antenna mounted in the same spot as yours. The Wilson antenna is mounted in a similar spot on my OEM rack with 8020 cross bars.

I cannot get the Weboost to work with the Wilson antenna. I get a red light on the Weboost when I turn on power.

From their docs >>
A red light indicates a feedback loop condition called oscillation. When oscillation is detected, your booster shuts down or reduces gain. This is typically caused when the outside antenna and the inside antenna are placed too close together and noise is created on the system.
To correct this: First, unplug booster. Next, relocate the outside antenna and inside antenna further from each other. The objective is to increase the separation distance between them so they won't create a feedback loop reducing the gain and coverage area of the amplifier.
Finally, plug booster back in and run a test. if the red light displays again, increase the separation distance until the condition is corrected.
<<<<

I've tried mounting the Wilson antenna in various spots on the roof and still get the red light on Weboost.

Curios if others have had this problem and/or have suggestions?
 
I got around to installing my Wilson antenna on the roof. Have my internal antenna mounted in the same spot as yours. The Wilson antenna is mounted in a similar spot on my OEM rack with 8020 cross bars.

I cannot get the Weboost to work with the Wilson antenna. I get a red light on the Weboost when I turn on power.

From their docs >>
A red light indicates a feedback loop condition called oscillation. When oscillation is detected, your booster shuts down or reduces gain. This is typically caused when the outside antenna and the inside antenna are placed too close together and noise is created on the system.
To correct this: First, unplug booster. Next, relocate the outside antenna and inside antenna further from each other. The objective is to increase the separation distance between them so they won't create a feedback loop reducing the gain and coverage area of the amplifier.
Finally, plug booster back in and run a test. if the red light displays again, increase the separation distance until the condition is corrected.
<<<<

I've tried mounting the Wilson antenna in various spots on the roof and still get the red light on Weboost.

Curios if others have had this problem and/or have suggestions?
Which antenna? Is it one designed for bigger trucks/homes? If so it might actually be strong enough to interfere with your internal antenna. I’d eliminate that as a problem, by trying to get it working with the Wilson antenna as far away as you can. Confirm it works when not mounted on the rig first.

If that fails their customer service team is top notch, judging front he few I’ve had the pleasure of speaking to!
 
Which antenna? Is it one designed for bigger trucks/homes? If so it might actually be strong enough to interfere with your internal antenna. I’d eliminate that as a problem, by trying to get it working with the Wilson antenna as far away as you can. Confirm it works when not mounted on the rig first.

If that fails their customer service team is top notch, judging front he few I’ve had the pleasure of speaking to!
It's the antenna that was recommended:

Amazon product ASIN B01FUF1JAY
It does work when it's not mounted on the roof.
I received my Prinsu rack today in the mail. I plan to install it later this week. It will give me more mounting options on top and real estate, hopefully fix the error. Seems that most folks installed this Wilson Trucker antenna on an aftermarket rack but I do recall someone who did install it to the OEM rack.

I didn't realize that I responded here on a "group buy" forum and should have posted on the LC200 forum.

@SharpeCat Thanks
 

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