Waterproofing the Distributor

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Joined
Mar 13, 2003
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North Front Range, CO
Is there much more than plugging the hole in the hole in the bottom of the distributor?
I have a new seal/gasket for the distributor.

I was thinking just plug you could stick in the hole to plug it when it comes bath time.
 
There are 3 holes in the distributor base, their job is venting to prevent corrosion. For simple washing the easiest is to wrap a towel, rag, etc around the base. For full time, deep water crossing type work, seal the holes and add a hose type vent/breather.
 
If you seal all the holes you will have one gooey corroded mess, I know because I have one in the garage!
 
There are 3 holes in the distributor base, their job is venting to prevent corrosion. For simple washing the easiest is to wrap a towel, rag, etc around the base. For full time, deep water crossing type work, seal the holes and add a hose type vent/breather.

How about sealing and adding a vent hose that leads into the airbox :hhmm:
 
As there is no provision for a FJ60 vacuum vented dist cap. you would need some way to get rid of the moisture.

If you were to seal the cap ( I did that already) and put a hose with a valve on it hanging down so that you could turn it on and off, I think it might work???????:idea:
 
I wounder if a nonUSA has a vented cap?

In the pic you can see an in and an out for the cap.
Seal the cap good and you could just hook it up to a vacuum port and it would vacuum clean all day long.

I did modify the HIE dist cap on my FJ60. I drilled out the cap and put vents in it and JB Weld-ed it.
Hooked it up to the vacuum port and sealed the cap with RV sealant.
It worked but was not pretty.

I would work on the 80 cap but I would want a better way to put ports on it.

Only problem I see is there are no extra vacuum ports on the motor. One would think you could 'T' off a port but I am not sure how you would go about doing it and not affecting the other vacuum line you are 'T'ed off from.
Vent Dist Cap.webp
 
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i suggest you plug a vacuum hose and do what landtoy80 suggested. or just let it dangle in a higher position so water or moisture wont get in and to make it totally water/moisture proof try dabbing some dielectric silicon grease around the connections. it works wonders.:clap:
 
Could my rough engine idle after rinsing off the engine or or splashing through some water be from water getting in the distributer. It goes away after a while driving a couple of miles. If this is so i will definately be water proofing my distributer.
 
Could my rough engine idle after rinsing off the engine or or splashing through some water be from water getting in the distributer. It goes away after a while driving a couple of miles. If this is so i will definately be water proofing my distributer.

Yes, mine dies and runs very rough when I give it a bath.
 
I would try a compressor with a ventilation hole to add pressure to the Distributor so water can't get in? Thoughts?
 
No it's a permeant cap.

100_4275.jpg


I now have the luxury of running triple coil pack and wasted spark, making the distributers rotor button obsolete.

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The ignitor is on the Red Anodized Ali at the end of the coil pack.

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Not sure how do able with the factory ECU this is though :hillbilly:
 
Wtf!?!?!?!?!?!

Details dammit!!

Wait a minute, isn't that a 2F?

No its a 2F-ETI

000_0305.jpg


I just use the dizzy for timing now, the ECU does the rest with the coil pack and ignitor, Worth triple seal water proof connectors too.
 
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Does any body have detailed pics on this mod? I am looking for pics showing how they ran the breather hoses from the distributor to either to the air filter canister, etc. I would like to do something similar.
 
No its a 2F-ETI

000_0305.jpg


I just use the dizzy for timing now, the ECU does the rest with the coil pack and ignitor, Worth triple seal water proof connectors too.

Sorry for the hi-jack. That's just not fair and absolutlly sick. EFI and a turbo in a FJ40. Totally awesome Matt! :cheers:
 
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