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Discussion in 'Expedition Builds' started by BMThiker, Jan 11, 2012.
THANK YOU for the links! From appearances, mine appears to be a fast acting fuse.
Sorry, no news yet. Too many "life" projects have put this project off. Fuses have been ordered though. Will update when I make my next move.
Good luck with it.
For a soldering iron to undo and resolder the leads. If you don't have one already I suggest getting one with a grounded tip. It will have a three prong plug. RatShack has some that may work. The grounded tip will help you keep from blowing out circuits with static electricity. For my old non grounded soldering iron I just stick them all on the work bench and let them sit for an hour or so before working on the board. That gives the then a bit of time to equalize in static charge potential. Also I wear 100% cotton clothing only. Cotton is generally resistant to static buildup. Synthetics, wools and silks can be particularly bad for static buildup. If possible I get the humidity up over 40%. You could boil a pot of water on a hot plate on the bench. Another thing I do is touch and hold for a couple seconds on a part of the board like a plated screw hole. That equalizes the last bit of static difference. I always hold boards by the edges only and do my best to not touch any of the chips or other devices on them. That means less chance of statically zapping one.
Just wanted to see if anything happened yet????
Received the fuses, need to buy a decent soldering iron and practice on some old electronics gathering dust before I take the Waeco under the knife.
Success! I replaced the 3.5A-250V fuse and that fixed it. I also discovered a 8A-250V fuse, but it looked to be fine. Ran the fridge all night on the highest setting, however it was frosty in a matter of hours. Thanks for all the assistance and your patience in my protracted write up.
Here's another photo of the main board showing (circled) the fuse I replaced and also indicating a second fuse (arrow) that I identified is 8A-250V (but was not blown).
That's kind of crazy. At least if you were out where you needed to do a field fix you could tie the wires together. Heck if you had the board out might as well solder in a couple minifuse holders so if you blew a fuse it would be an easy fix and a good mod. Would be interesting to see all the part numbers on that board especially the IC. Why they didn't put an Panel mount fuse holder in there is beyond me.
Are those 20mm fuses? And wonder what the distance is between the solder points?
Got to love Mud though. They always come through with the answers.
The best news is that it actually was the 3.5A fuse. It was so hard to tell when it was still soldered to the board whether it was blown or not. Once I got it off the board and could hold it properly up to a light I could see that it was blown. The main board is soldered to the the leads that are soldered to the compressor (the big 16ga wires on the left side of the image above, so the operation was a PITA because I had to work on it while it hung from the side of the fridge.
I think the originals are 10mm fuses. Really frickin tiny. The replacements were a few mm longer.
Glad to see you got it goin. Now throw some beer in there and hit the trails.
Two growlers of beer, 3L of water, sandwich fixins and headed to Tennessee for some wheeling tomorrow morning.
Sent from my Android device
Now I gotta find the old board outta mine and see if it is just a fuse??
Update after this weekend's trip. Fridge gets cold but much colder than it did before this issue. It doesnt run all the time like in emergency mode, but it almost froze my beer on the #3 thermostat setting. Not sure what to check next.
Mine gets pretty cold on #3 setting, not beer freezing cold, but quite cold.
I used to leave it on 3 all the time and things never froze. Only when I set it on 4 would things on the "cold end" of the fridge start freezing. I left it on 1 last night after getting home from our trip and left a bottle of water in the middle of the compartment. Will check on it at lunch today (approximately 17hrs running unopened) and report my findings.
OK, so here's a mystery for the EE's out there. I have just the one power cable with the proprietary end going into the fridge and the cig plug end has been chopped off and Anderson power plugs were fixed into place. The end goal being that I can swap out the stock cig plug as needed and then "hardwire" it directly to my fuse panel. The cig outlet I was using was installed by me and wired into the same fuse panel.
So here is the panty-twister. When I plug the power cable directly into the pigtail I made with matching Anderson power plugs that is wired directly to the fuse panel, the fridge runs all the time and freezes anything inside no matter what the thermostat is set on.
Conversely, when I put the stock cig plug pigtail back on it (which now has the Anderson power plugs on it) and plug it into the 12v outlet that is powered by the same fuse panel, it barely runs and gives me the flashing red light - indicating a voltage drop.
blame the cigarette lighter plug and socket. They are notoriously bad a making a good connection.
Part of the problem is there is a spring in the current path of the tip of the plug. if that spring ends up being the only current path it heats up and looses pressure. That leads to the tip not being pushed against the bottom of the socket with enough force for a good connection. There are other mechanical issues with the design.
True,they are junk and should be treated as such ,but why would his fridge run non stop with a clean supply?
Another vote for the fridge cig plug. They are notoriously bad at keeping a clean contact.
Anderson PP are great at keeping a clean contact and are designed to clean the contact each time you plug in.
My Fridge has Anderson PP plugs and has not failed me yet. In fact I've been slowly converting all my truck based electrics to Power Poles.
A fault in the control circuit. That is a separate issue from the power one.
That's what I'm afraid of.