Viscous coupling ... (2 Viewers)

Joined
Jul 20, 2004
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Chandler, AZ
There is no "fixing" it would be replacing, IIRC, dealer replacement is $$$. IMHO, the only thing they really do is an extravagant drive line slack/noise reducer. We have replaced one (with a used one) and taken out a bunch of "good" ones, the only practical difference is slightly more clunk in on/off throttle, etc. They were only used in the '93-'97, the early FJ80 and later 100 series didn't have them.
 
Joined
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This is what a burned up one looks like.
VC_1.jpg

VC_2.jpg

VC_3.jpg
 
Joined
May 31, 2005
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7,013
Tools is trying to tell you not to bother: Just pull it and run without it.

91-92's have the same t-case but with no VC, and it's a non-issue.
 
Joined
Feb 2, 2004
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Location
Washington
Tools, I have not been in a TC. I am trying to visualize what happens when you pull it. Do you pull it out clean it all up so that there is no friction material and re-install? Is it solid lock up once you replace it, or is it just like an open diff vs a limited slip diff? Do you ever notice a traction difference once you pull the "good" ones?
 
Joined
Jul 20, 2004
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Chandler, AZ
Pretty simple job, pull the rear case off the transfer, the VC will be inside, remove the retaining snap-ring (pretty deep in a hole, kinda pain) dump the VC out. Clean the case surfaces, light coat of Ultra Gray RTV, torque it back together.

I say remove it, if for some reason you don't like the way it drives, can always get a replacement and install. I have a few good used ones, but likely not worth the swim across the pond? :hillbilly:
 
Joined
Apr 13, 2013
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Location
Devon UK
Finally got around to removing this VC thingy ....
20141031_151738.jpg
Was a lot easier than I gathered it might be. ..
truck feels a lot smoother to drive without it.
 
Joined
Apr 14, 2013
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229
Pretty simple job, pull the rear case off the transfer, the VC will be inside, remove the retaining snap-ring (pretty deep in a hole, kinda pain) dump the VC out. Clean the case surfaces, light coat of Ultra Gray RTV, torque it back together.

I say remove it, if for some reason you don't like the way it drives, can always get a replacement and install. I have a few good used ones, but likely not worth the swim across the pond? :hillbilly:

Is the Viscous coupler essentially a rubber bushing between the front and rear drive line that dampens? Or is it more complicated? The photo in my eyes makes it appear as it is a rubber device that has failed. There is another thread right now where the OP is worried about installing different sized tires front and rear and causing damage to the coupler.
 
Joined
Apr 14, 2013
Messages
229
Thanks for the reply, now i can see that in the picture you posted! With open ceter diff when one wheel is on a patch of ice or slips you are going nowhere. With the fluid clutch it should transfer some power to the ohter side of the vehicle. The Hundys acomplished this by using the traction control system and no longer needed this type device. A working viscous coupler is a good thinig in slippery conditions(icey roads). Now how to determine if I still have one.
 

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