URGENT - Engine Turns Over / No Crank (97 1FZ-FE)

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FIDO96

FIDO96

Joined
Aug 22, 2024
Threads
26
Messages
258
Location
Southlake, TX
Solved!

She’s back and running like a champ! Dead fuel pump. Thanks to all below who commented.

I opened the access port and checked the fuel pump, confirmed I’m getting 12v to the pump so nothing upstream of concern (I will be replacing all relays, fuel pump relay and crankshaft position sensor for good measure with OEM parts as soon as they arrive).

I pulled the FP and bench tested it…..dead. I bought it 11/24 from Partsouq so I guess I got a dud…less than 7000 miles. Unless you guys think this sediment is the culprit?

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Original Post for historical context:


Running out to lunch I jumped into my truck, it turned over, sputtered and then just just kept trying to crank. So far I’ve:

A. Replaced EFI relay, even though I could feel it clicking
B. Checked the COR (small round idential relay as EFI below the rest). It also clicks
C. Jumped FB to B+ and get no audible pump sound
D. Replaced Fusible Link spare I keep
E. Removed neg terminal to reset Viper Alarm/remote start




Thoughts?
 
Last edited:
Don't recall if you can hear the pump or not under normal conditions, but it's easy to check physically if there is fuel being pumped to the engine for sure by disconnecting the return fuel line.
 
A bad crank sensor may cut fuel to the pump if it's bad.
 
FIDO96 said:
Running out to lunch I jumped into my truck, it turned over, sputtered and then just just kept trying to crank. So far I’ve:
...
B. When I came back from Napa with new EFI relay, the car was attempting to auto start itself. I was not trying to do it.

Thoughts?
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Exactly what you do mean?

You tried to start it, released the key and it kept cranking?

You went to Napa and it was cranking on its own without the key?

If that's what you mean, then you have an issue with the starter motor internal solenoid. Basically the contacts are shorting out and energizing the starter. Time for new contacts/plunger etc, or just a reman toyota starter. Take care of it asap and in the meantime, disconnect the battery- cable.

cheers,
george.
 
george_tlc said:
Exactly what you do mean?

You tried to start it, released the key and it kept cranking?

You went to Napa and it was cranking on its own without the key?

If that's what you mean, then you have an issue with the starter motor internal solenoid. Basically the contacts are shorting out and energizing the starter. Time for new contacts/plunger etc, or just a reman toyota starter. Take care of it asap and in the meantime, disconnect the battery- cable.

cheers,
george.
Click to expand...
No…two separate events.
1. The initial issue was I turned the ignition, the engine started to crank, sputtered and then stopped. I could turn the engine/starter over with the ignition but nothing was firing.

2. The second issues is more unexplainable. As I was walking up to the vehicle, the hazards flashed and the engine was attempting to auto start without me activating the remote. I can’t rule out the key fob inadvertently activated auto start while in my front pocket, but in 1.5 years, it’s never done that.
 
FIDO96 said:
No…two separate events.
1. The initial issue was I turned the ignition, the engine started to crank, sputtered and then stopped. I could turn the engine/starter over with the ignition but nothing was firing.

2. The second issues is more unexplainable. As I was walking up to the vehicle, the hazards flashed and the engine was attempting to auto start without meet activating the remote. I can’t rule out the key fob inadvertently activated auto start while in my front pocket, but in 1.5 years, it’s never done that.
Click to expand...
3. I replaced the entire starter with an OEM in December, along with the water pump, alternator, battery cables, idler pulley, belts, ac compressor pulley & adjuster, engine oil pressure sensor, fan clutch, fan, and foam around the radiator. Last night I did replace the front sway bars with DeltaVS extenders and Slee Rear extended End Link brackets and OEM endlinks. I try to replace 1-2 components each month with OEM or better parts. Within the last 12 months, replaced a busted fuel tank with an OEM tank and all new fuel tank components, including the sending until, fuel pump assembly, gaskets, bolts, banjo bolts, hoses, etc. I even did the AC Delco Charcoal Canister replacement.
 
FIDO96 said:
I can’t rule out the key fob inadvertently activated auto start while in my front pocket, but in 1.5 years, it’s never done that.
Click to expand...
Do you have an after market remote start? If so that is vital information. If not, the factory remote does not do remote start.
Pretty sure there's not a pin in the diagnostic port to jump the fuel pump, you've got to do that at the circuit opening relay. Key on doesn't prime it like most domestic vehicles either, you've got to be cranking.
And to help us help you, I think we need to clear up some terminology: cranking over/turning over/turning = the starter rotating the engine. Firing = the engine at least trying to run under its own power.
 
60 toy ota said:
Do you have an after market remote start? If so that is vital information. If not, the factory remote does not do remote start.
Pretty sure there's not a pin in the diagnostic port to jump the fuel pump, you've got to do that at the circuit opening relay. Key on doesn't prime it like most domestic vehicles either, you've got to be cranking.
And to help us help you, I think we need to clear up some terminology: cranking over/turning over/turning = the starter rotating the engine. Firing = the engine at least trying to run under its own power.
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Yes. I have a Viper security / remote start

And yes the starter turns the engine over but no attempt at ignition/firing.
 
When you experience the crank, no start condition, is the check engine light illuminated with the key in the 'on' position?
 
I would be looking into the alarm system.
 
Does the alarm/remote start system have a main fuse or relay you can pull out? When I imported a JDM HDJ100, it had some remote start system installed that would cause all kinds of ****ery. The main one being, it would still run with the key in the off position and it being removed.

When I pulled the main fuse it disabled it, and everything worked normally.
 
Now that I’ve had it towed home, I can confirm the following:
A. I can get the engine to sputter and attempt to run with a shot of starter fluid, but once consumed, the engine dies
B. I have a CEL and Alternator Red Square with key in ACC or ON position.
C. When I pulled the low pressure fuel line from the fuel pressure regulator and cranked the engine over, nothing came out.
D. All fuses are working with a mulitmeter
E. I attempted to use the multimeter to check the resistance in the Fuel Pump Relay and with the red (+) lead in slot #3 and the black (-) grounded it the frame, nothing registered, just the OL symbol.

I’m moving away from alarm system issues. We tried in valet mode, reset the system with a neg battery terminal removal and witnessed the engine try to fire with starter fluid. I’m ready to throw parts at it….which one first!
 
Please update your first post with everything that you've tried and learned since your first post in a nice summary. It'll help others with understanding of your situation w/o having to read all of the posts. :-)
 
Time to dig to the fuel pump cover. Use your multimeter to confirm power at the connector during cranking
 
60 toy ota said:
Time to dig to the fuel pump cover. Use your multimeter to confirm power at the connector during cranking
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Bingo. Just finished this. Actually I used this page from my FSM and resistance was not in range and when I connected a battery, nothing

My multimeter sucks so I’m gonna go get a decent one. I do want to confirm power comming to the pump as you described.

Can you save me the research and happen to know the pins I want to test inside the connector? I assume it’s the same #6 (+) and #5(-).

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FIDO96 said:
Bingo. Just finished this. Actually I used this page from my FSM and resistance was not in range and when I connected a battery, nothing

My multimeter sucks so I’m gonna go get a decent one. I do want to confirm power comming to the pump as you described.

Can you save me the research and happen to know the pins I want to test inside the connector? I assume it’s the same #6 (+) and #5(-).

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Yeah i mean if you hold the two sides together you can see the corresponding wires. I believe Toyota would designate them with the same numbers but it's easier imo to just visually ID them
 
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