Upgrades for supercharged fj80

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canyoncruiser

canyoncruiser

15 Year 10 Year
Joined
Jun 27, 2006
Threads
6
Messages
17
Location
Bend, OR
Soon I will be installing a used supercharger on my fj80. A shop that does a lot of power upgrades to vehicles currently has my s/c. They were going to research what I need to make this system highly efficient (i.e. fuel delivery upgrades, cooling system upgrades, high performance plugs, high performance thermostat, etc.) Can anyone out there tell me what types of upgrades I would be wise to do when I have the s/c installed?
 
clownmidget said:
2006 Toyota OEM headgasket...:hillbilly:
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You think he is kidding, but he is telling the truth. At the same time, new fan clutch, radiator, thermostat, clean injectors. You should contact Cruiserdan for the parts as well as his recent fan upgrade for the fan and shrowd (something about a 4runner shroud). Crusierdan is also known as the parts shaman as he works for American Toyota that sells parts to members for a discount. A benifit for you is his personal vehicle is a blown 96 Cruiser so he knows everything you need to know about it.
 
Oops, almost forgot, you should do the temperature gauge mod so your gauge actually works.
 
Cary- doesn't sound like you to slip up on CDan's info like that! ;) I believe the fan change is for the fan itself and not the shroud. Also, CDan owns a '93 80, not a 96 as I'm sure he'll tell us here! :cheers:
 
Correct, fan from 90's 4runner and you trim the lower portion of the shroud, just did the mod myself couple weeks ago.

canyon - one of the angles of attack for the supercharger is to make the truck run as cool as possible. This includes an overhaul of the cooling system, replacing what's needed. There are several things people have done to run the engine cooler including:

- hood vents
- aux. fan
- cooler plugs (MR2)
- 180 degree t-stat

Good luck, you'll love the supercharger.
 
also just do a SEARCH for supercharger and there'll be plenty of advice.

you can drop some major coin into this little "upgrade" too so don't be surprised. realistically with a engine with over 100K you could stare down replacing the headgasket, likely valve job, tendency to want to do a port and polish on the head and intake, all the hoses on the coolant system, new all metal radiator, fan clutch, moded fan as above, exhaust work maybe from new cats back, new oxygen sensors, plumbing in a coolant temp gauge, an egt gauge, a boost gauge, a A/F gauge, going the route of an intercooler or a aquamist water/meth injection, a piggyback ecu/FMU of some kind, higher output fuel pump, better fuel regulator, and on and on...
 
Indeed a slipery slope. Depending on the aquisition cost of the used blower and how deep you go you could easily spend over 5,000 dollars, especialy if you are paying someone else to do the work.

I am very fond of mine but I don't think it a good idea to do one, or a turbo for that matter, unless you are a good amatuer mechanic. Paying somebody to install one and then look after it for you will be costly. Also do remember that the vehicle will require premium gas for the rest of it's life.
 
You could always rig up alcohol/methanol injection and still run 87 octane.... a Hobbs switch would trigger the alchy/meth injection to come on adding octane at the same time when you need it (under boost).
 
gnx7 said:
You could always rig up alcohol/methanol injection and still run 87 octane.... a Hobbs switch would trigger the alchy/meth injection to come on adding octane at the same time when you need it (under boost).
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See my sig line...........You still need premium gas....;)
 
I don't understand why you would need 91 since you aren't raising the compression. If you had the injection kit staged it should be just like a Buick Grand National turbo setup. Same concept.
 
Forced induction DOES rase the effective compression ratio.
 
yes.... but only under boost. and you will have alchy/meth squirting in when you need it.
 
yes...but with the TRD/Kazuma s/c boost comes on just off of idle ~1000 rpm. So unless you want to idle everywhere, you're going to get knocking/pinging with lower octane fuel. That's just the reality of running it.

edit: and you can fool yourself by running low octane fuel but your knock sensor will just retard your timing and a bulk of your s/c performance will vanish. And it'll still ping and knock...
 
I didn't realize the setup made boost basically off idle. Stump puller for sure.

You would need a 5 gallon reservoir of alchy/meth with the boost coming on that often.
 
gnx7 said:
I didn't realize the setup made boost basically off idle. Stump puller for sure.

You would need a 5 gallon reservoir of alchy/meth with the boost coming on that often.
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MY Methanol comes on line when the boost is over 3.5 lbs and the engine RPM is greater than 3,100. When I am being a heavy-foot or if I am towing it will go through about 1 1/2 gallons per 100-150 miles. The nozzle is a 14gph 45 degree spray. If I run a smaller nozzle it will still knock above 4,200 rpm. My reservoir gives me about 8 minutes of WOT operation.
 
Yes, still going. Just like the Energizer Bunny. :steer:
 
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