TX-FJENG FJ62 gets a 5.3 (1 Viewer)

[fjeng]

And it starts,
I am a bit late starting a thread but wanted to document and share my learning as a possible collaboration of knowledge on my leaning. I bought this 62 with original paint No rust and run great but wanted a 5.3 from the start so being a engineer I over complicated things and did lots of research. When I get it in I will share the final version of the parts list / Price.

I started this weekend and making good progress with preps.
Engine is a 2002 5.3 Drive by Wire out of a truck.. Rare and hard to find throttle parts for but low mileage. I didn't like the compression test so tore it down and replaced rings and lapped the valves. I know it was low mileage due to the original rings were still in spec on the butt gap.

Up until this point all I did was build a front bumper which ill share as well and drive it.

 

[fjeng]

Bumper Build.. Designed it and had the pieces broke by a local shop then fit and welded. Sure sound simple in those few words but I wanted a clean winch bumper tucked as close as i could.

 

[fjeng]

5.3 has some tar like gunk in the valves and had bad compression so I tore it apart and reworked it. and now it has awesome compression and is FRESH, feels good to know exactly when you drop a "unknown" engine in.

 

[fjeng]

Now for the engine PULL, not as bad as I thought only took about 3 hrs by my self. With the right equipment it makes it easier. My engine Hoist is the where it is at.

 

[fjeng]

Striped the engine bay, tucked the harness in the fenders and painted it with 153 from www.Automotivetouchup.com in the spray can and it matched perfect. I recommend this I also sprayed to piece in front of the windshield that had some sun fading.

 

[rrv333]

 

[tgadd]

Really like the bumper build. You are making quick work with the engine swap too

 

[Elbert]

V8's rule..

 

[fjeng]

Update Engine Wiring and Fuel piping:
I reinstalled all of the Engine Bay equip after I painted it and traced out all of my wires and removed the Main EFI Relay and the Fuel Pump relay.
Note: I took the large Yellow and red from the Main EFI and it goes directly thru the Firewall to the Fuel pump (Circuit Open) relay. Solder the fuel pump pos (Red Green) and Walla you have a wire run to the fuel pump that you can wire into your harness fuel relay. I thought I would share this a I though on it a bunch.
Also Wiring Notes: (All in passenger side harness)
1.Temp Sender connection is in the glove box in a two prong connector (green Wire) by where the computer was. You can test it by turning on your key and grounding it which will make your gauge read high.
2. Took (Keyed Hot) from the round three prong connector as well using the Black Blue Wire that ran to the engine
3. Oil sender was a Yellow Wire, dont remember the color dashing maybe green
4. Battery Hot I took from the Main EFI Relay (RED)
5. Back up was Red with black stripe running to the trans plug. Good time to wire in switched 12v as you can turn on your reverse for camping lights.
6. Wire for 12V hot to transmission was Blue to feed the trans switch
7. Starter Wire was Black with Red stripe.


Installed my original fuel filter on the fire wall with a 12mm to -6an Banjo fitting and push-loc. Ran the return line with a -6an to 5/16 compression to go over the return line.
Tested fuel pump and ITS Alive

Replaced all the heater hose with new Gates 5/8" as 30yr old hose exposed to heat is just asking for a reason to give up.


Completed:
Transfer-case rebuild and bolted it to the 4L60e Get the rebuild kit and adapter from George at Valley Hybrids great Price and service. orangefj45
5.3 is ready to mate to transfer case Note: read the service manual before or else you will forget something!! I had to split the case to re arrange the idol gear washers.

Up Next
Start fabricating the exhaust y pipe with it out of the truck will make it much easier to get to!! Using summit universal kit so we will see how bad it is. I am having the exhaust flanges for the 02 Z06 headers cut by a local guy on a plasma table due to they are HARD to find and expensive when I do find them.

If anyone needs these flanges let me know I will get some cut for you.

 

[HemiAlex]

Watching this closely. I'd like to do the same with a 5.3/H55.

I've swapped from a big block Chrysler to a 6.1 Hemi in my Roadrunner. I've already got a spare fuel system to inject a 5.3 sitting in the garage.

 

[fjeng]

Stolen Pics but a good place to share some of my gathered info on the plug wiring and shift MOD

 

[fjeng]

Here is the update on the build:
I contacted my harness guy that is local that gave me a 3 week lead time and 4 weeks went by and he said my "might" be able to do it in 2 weeks. That does not meet my timeline so I made a command decision and picked up my harness and starting to rewire my self. Shipping my PCM to LT1Swap for a program. So last night I stripped the harness and pulled all the connectors and wires that are not needed. So the good news is it was not near as hard as I thought it would be. I have about 7 hrs so far into the harness and I would only expect about an additional 4 to solder everything and finish up. Exhaust parts are here. So I will build the Y pipe and then the MOTOR IS GOING IN!! I found a fuse box out of a 1998 1500 that I will adapt to run the LS and maybe my headlight harness

 

[alaska120]

I see a quite a few of the chebby swaps...curious about power and milage improvements compared to say a 302 or 360 or is it just easier? I'd be game to flop a 345 into mine for s&g's...

 

[fjeng]

I see a quite a few of the chebby swaps...curious about power and milage improvements compared to say a 302 or 360 or is it just easier? I'd be game to flop a 345 into mine for s&g's...

As far as power You can always get some good power out of each, the Chevy LS you can get 300HP stock with a tune if needed so that is real easy. As far as the swap they are just easy due to the amount of information online and aftermarket parts (adapters, harnesses, support). They are super easy to work on, no valve adjustments, no timing adjustments, just drive it for 300,000 miles and then put another in for $2000.

 

[onemanarmy]

An older, original 302? You'll get half the horsepower and lower fuel economy. And be stuck figuring out adapters and wiring on your own.
The new Coyote 302s are much bigger, and will make you realize how 'compact' the LS motors are.

A 345 out of what? Carb? Obviously a carb motor would be much easier, wiring wise.

really liking the detail in this swap, and that front bumper too.

 

[fjeng]

An older, original 302? You'll get half the horsepower and lower fuel economy. And be stuck figuring out adapters and wiring on your own.
The new Coyote 302s are much bigger, and will make you realize how 'compact' the LS motors are.

A 345 out of what? Carb? Obviously a carb motor would be much easier, wiring wise.

really liking the detail in this swap, and that front bumper too.

It is amazing when you pull the 130 HP tractor motor out and the truck raises 2in in the front just how far technology has come when 300Hp comes in such a small package.
Thanks on the bumper complement, we all have idea and some work out and some don't this one I am pleased at. I am trying to keep the detail in it to help the next guy. I am keeping a good Parts list that I plan on sharing when it is Final.

 

[fjeng]

I finished up the harness and pulled the intake to mate the engine and trans. Also got the 3/8 corvette flanges back from my buddy, I drew them up in solidworks and they fit like a glove, ready for welding.

 

[fjeng]

Huge milestone!! Y pipe is built and engine is in!! Now I have to finish my motor mounts and wiring to the fuse box. Advice: Ho ahead and take the rest of the headlight front off the truck it will save you.

 

[fjeng]

Note:
Get some help when you do this as it a little dangerous by yours self.

I need a little help on what to do for the air filter I want to use the stock 62 can.

 

[NCFJ]