Thanks for the help with the air intake, I ordered the parts today and found some parts from the local wrecking yard to go from the can to the MAF and to the intake.
Here is the update and lessons learned from this weekend:
I finished the exhaust from the motor back out the drive side behind the tire. The summit universal 2.5" kit has all that parts you need.
I finished the motor mounts and then found out that my motor was too low where the axle would contact the motor before the bump stops. When I mounted the motor I did not put the hood on as I was doing this by myself and realized that the motor could raise up a few more inches. Also I was a little caught up into getting it mounted and the clearance was just a oversight.
NOTE: When you find the final home for your motor PUT your HOOD on and get it as high as you can. If I was to do it again I would put my motor in the tunnel, mount both drive shafts, get the height right, fabricate and bolt on my cross member, Then Weld the Engine mounts last as they are the hardest to change. Be sure that you get the output shaft the same distance away from the axle flange I almost forgot that.
So Long story short I cut my mounts off the frame and raised it up to make it right! I was temped to add a spacer to the bump stop but I would of always regretted it.
Also got the fuse box from a 1998 Chevy 1500 and rewired it to run my harness and accessories (AC Relay, Fuel Pump, Engine, and two extra relays for toys) It looks great and will work awesome I highly recommend it. $25 from yard with fuses and relays.
Here are some pics of the cross member Mod before the clean up.
The Exhaust Pipes before install Y Pipe Back
Fuse Box and Rewire
Here is the rig POST 1.5" body lift that I built with a OME Med Lift on 33x10.5 I will go 35s on 17 rims when I get some other projects done.