TX-FJENG FJ62 gets a 5.3

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Thanks for the help with the air intake, I ordered the parts today and found some parts from the local wrecking yard to go from the can to the MAF and to the intake.

Here is the update and lessons learned from this weekend:
I finished the exhaust from the motor back out the drive side behind the tire. The summit universal 2.5" kit has all that parts you need.
I finished the motor mounts and then found out that my motor was too low where the axle would contact the motor before the bump stops. When I mounted the motor I did not put the hood on as I was doing this by myself and realized that the motor could raise up a few more inches. Also I was a little caught up into getting it mounted and the clearance was just a oversight.
NOTE: When you find the final home for your motor PUT your HOOD on and get it as high as you can. If I was to do it again I would put my motor in the tunnel, mount both drive shafts, get the height right, fabricate and bolt on my cross member, Then Weld the Engine mounts last as they are the hardest to change. Be sure that you get the output shaft the same distance away from the axle flange I almost forgot that.

So Long story short I cut my mounts off the frame and raised it up to make it right! I was temped to add a spacer to the bump stop but I would of always regretted it.

Also got the fuse box from a 1998 Chevy 1500 and rewired it to run my harness and accessories (AC Relay, Fuel Pump, Engine, and two extra relays for toys) It looks great and will work awesome I highly recommend it. $25 from yard with fuses and relays.

Here are some pics of the cross member Mod before the clean up.
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The Exhaust Pipes before install Y Pipe Back
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Fuse Box and Rewire
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Here is the rig POST 1.5" body lift that I built with a OME Med Lift on 33x10.5 I will go 35s on 17 rims when I get some other projects done.
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Finished Rewiring the GM OEM Fuse Box, Got it installed and also got most of the air box done. The top piece to the air box is a lid from the 62, the elbow is off of a 1998 GM Truck 5.7 with a hole drilled in it for the wing nut. I will close up the hole in the front and add one of the filter indicators
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that let you know when to change.
 
More on the update:
I did finish the wiring and gas pedal install (Drive by Wire) and had the great moment we all look for! It Fired on the first turn of the KEY.. I Did Woop in excitement.

So I have completed the Shifter for the transfer case and the transmission for the OEM floor shifter. The picture that was posted earlier is perfect to use the lower shifer at 3" that is perfect but you will want to adjust the 15 1/4" a little depending where your transmissions lands I think mine ended up around 16".

The Intake is complete and it just touches the hood. too close for comfort but it FITS.

All AC hoses Built and installed from a local Car Quest, took my mess in and we ordered the parts then took them back and cut to fit, marked and returned for crimping. Fit Like a Glove.

Im pretty happy with the computer mounting location being out of the way and connectors down so water has a hard time getting in the connectors.

Next up: Install Exhaust and drive shafts and complete the interior wiring. OBDII, Tac, Check Engine, and ill hold off for the Cruise.

Question: Does anyone have any good switch ideas for the DBW cruise control?
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Finished all of the hit list!!! AC charged and is cold and ready for TX.
Had to add a modify the shifter linkage to add in a long mut and bolt for adjustment now the shift indicator is perfect!
The engine cranks right up and wow the power! But I have a transmission issue I'm chasing. It would not shift into second and so I replaced the B shift sol. As it threw a code, pulled the pan and found it unplugged??? So replaced it anyway and now still won't shift into third. So to the transmission shop.. That's the gamble with getting wrecking yard engines... My lesson learned would be don't buy the $1500 deal, go ahead and buy the $2700 nice engine with solid history. But when it is all said and done I will have a rebuilt engine and transmission.
 
@fjeng, where are you at with the rest of the build?

I have been bad on the update due to I work at a Power plant and when we shut down to refuel (Nuclear) we work 6x13s so not a lot of time for projects.
Status: I got the 62 back from the transmission shop and the inside of the trans was SHOT he said he had no idea how it even drove. This enforces my earlier point just pay the extra for the Really good engine. But I have put about 2000 miles on it this month driving it everyday back and forth to work with NO issues!! Whoo HOO

Oh ya the only redo was my muffler I had a 16" magnaflo and I was a little too loud and had some "droning" so I added a 16" resonator in front of it and it sounds great!

This has now become our families primary for all the weekend. Worth the $$

Items not finished:
-Wire up my Cruise Control
-Wire up my key-less entry / remote start


Update: So whats next?
I will start my FAB on my rear swing out bumper and starting a design on a roof rack.
Heavy thought on installing Land Rover Discovery seats but just not sure....
 
I got the 62 back from the transmission shop and the inside of the trans was SHOT he said he had no idea how it even drove. This enforces my earlier point just pay the extra for the Really good engine.

Sorry to hear you had issues with your trans. :( Pull outs come with that risk. This is why I skipped buying used and rebuilding locally and went right to Monster Trans. They have many options and come with a warranty.
 
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Finished hooking up my cruise control and it is awesome!!
Used two momentary buttons from radio shack and they look very of the era. Mounted them on the steering column. I hard wired the ON and so the red one is Set and the black one is Resume
Also I got some kydex and made a fuse cover that houses my scan gauge
 
Started my rear bumper for a dual swing out with Claw latches built for hot rods. I have the shell almost done next will be mounting and then for the reinforcement. The left side will have the tire and the right will be a cooler/jerry can mount.
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I bought a universal should kit from summit it was pretty easy. I got the wrong size it was too tall so I cut it horizontally to fit. Used 1/8" rivets and 10-32 rivnuts to tie it all together. I used rivnuts (harbor freight) so I wouldn't have to pull it to work in the water pump if needed. Not sure it was worth the extra work but that was my thought
 
That's an interesting concept on that rear bumper Mr. @fjeng ..
I imagine it is not finished, but will you be boxing in the ends on it ?
 
It is far from finished and will have full boxed ends similar to my front bumper. Will hav slam latches with gas struts that auto open. I'm thinking about mounting a air tank in the dead space on the bumper or boxing it in to have a place for a strap and such.
 
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Didn't like my hinges so I decided to run the lathe and build some spindle swing outs. 1" boat spindles with bearings and the hub is made out of 2 3/8" oil field pipe. No play so this will work much better.
 
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