Turbo-Glide installation on 1982 BJ42

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Hey Gringo,

Install looks great, nice and neat! Your going to love the power once its all done.
Looking forward to seeing the vid, and how much boost your pushing. Im running about 12psi under a loaded right foot on the highway, had thought about turning it up to 15 but am undecided.

In regards to your filter question .... I have a generic filter on my setup right now that i plan to replace in the next few days.
A diesel enthusiast at my work recommends a conical filter by a company called AFE. I have no experience with them as of yet, but am told they are very good. Might be worth looking into, here is their website: aFePower.com

Dan
 
Thanks for the info....might have a line on a BJ70 air cleaner lid, which seems to be the one I need. The BJ60's was different size. I'm slammed with work this week, hang tight.
 
EGT is covered, readings will be pre-turbo. I think I'm gonna go with 2.5 inch, although TG actually "recommends" 2.25 inch - as did my local exhaust guy. Everyone has an opinion on that, I suppose.
 
One question: should I connect the top intake tube (with the "Turbo-Glide" sticker on it) from the turbo to the air intake on the engine BEFORE I tighten down the manifold? The reason I ask is that if I cinch the manifold down first, the tube is a tad too long to connect to the air intake on the engine - to where I cannot connect it. I don't want to cut the tube, as the ends flare out a bit. Those with TG kit experience, please advise.
 
Nothing should apply force to the manifold, you really want the manifold to perfectly mate on the block surface. Also i would even recommand using a OEM toyota gasket instead of the one supplied by Turbo glide, i eventually replaced mine. Loctite for the manifold bolt is a good idea, mine eventually all loosen up, consequently lost boost due to manifold leak, when i fixed that i replaced the gasket for a OEM, much better.

Once the manifold perfectly tight, if the tube is too long, simply cut it, mine was tight but didn't required to be cut, the rubber between the elbow and the intake can take the offset. If you end up cutting the tube put the side with the flair near the turbo and the cut side near the intake.

I would not tight the manifold if anything would prevent it to mate the block surface evenly.

BJ42Gringo said:
One question: should I connect the top intake tube (with the "Turbo-Glide" sticker on it) from the turbo to the air intake on the engine BEFORE I tighten down the manifold? The reason I ask is that if I cinch the manifold down first, the tube is a tad too long to connect to the air intake on the engine - to where I cannot connect it. I don't want to cut the tube, as the ends flare out a bit. Those with TG kit experience, please advise.
Click to expand...
 
eleblanc said:
Nothing should apply force to the manifold, you really want the manifold to perfectly mate on the block surface. Also i would even recommand using a OEM toyota gasket instead of the one supplied by Turbo glide, i eventually replaced mine. Loctite for the manifold bolt is a good idea, mine eventually all loosen up, consequently lost boost due to manifold leak, when i fixed that i replaced the gasket for a OEM, much better.

Once the manifold perfectly tight, if the tube is too long, simply cut it, mine was tight but didn't required to be cut, the rubber between the elbow and the intake can take the offset. If you end up cutting the tube put the side with the flair near the turbo and the cut side near the intake.

I would not tight the manifold if anything would prevent it to mate the block surface evenly.
Click to expand...

x2, I've broken the "ears" off of manifolds on other vehicles trying to do things like this.
 
I'm just gonna sawzall the tube. Problem solved.

Hoping to hear back on a BJ70 part-out for the air cleaner...then I'll be good to go.
 
I cant wait to hear the results.:)
 
No air cleaner setup. I don't want to drop $$$ on something I'm not gonna use (K&N). And I need to wire the boost gauge. Everything else is good to go. I'll hope to take care of it this week, probably gonna have to chop my cleaner and weld up the TG supplied adapter. I'm waiting back on one last guy for confirmation on a possible BJ70 donor.

Oddly enough, it seems that my air cleaner is of a different size than the BJ60 and BJ70s I've looked into. I have no idea if it might be a NZ market difference (RHD?) or what.

Patience, young grasshopper. :flipoff2:
 
watch that eccelerater cable i had a turbo set up on a hilux 2.4d done and the accelarater cable bumped up against the battery as it was a little worn it shorted out as the cable is in a metal casing or something well anyway going down the highway at 110klmh it shorted out and welded the accelarater cable itself to the outer metal caseing at pretty much full throttle needless to say it was a bit freaky as my 6 yr old was in the car and stopping was a bit of a concern at full revs but i found a hill and stalled it in 5th gear and all was good so be carefull where you route it
just sold the hilux to put a turbo on my bj42 lx 82 model probably do the same as you with this turbo kit though can get a 13bt donk for less
nice job bud
 
I've got a water-to-air intercooler that would just about perfectly replace that straight piece of tubing. I started with this core and built it up myself. No pics of my completed setup handy on this computer. It's very noticeable on my 6.5 Chevy, though I think I need more water volume for towing. It's a work in progress.

Barrel Style Water to Air Intercooler

intercooler_type20_picture.jpg
 
Here is the finished product. Ugly? Hell yes! The metal was so thin Whitey45 went easy on the welds so as to not destroy the air intake arm. I filled in the gaps with "steel putty", similar to JB Weld - not pretty but should be functional. I then painted it black (not pictured).
TG3.webp
 
EDIT: The picture below shows the 90deg cobra fitting fixed in the wrong orientation. You will notice further into this thread, I was informed that I'm an idiot and the reason stuff didn't line up was because I had the TG supplied elbow incorrectly positioned. Problem fixed.
TG2.webp
 
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Kragen has nice intake ducting near that size for $20. Look for it in the ricer aisle underneath the chromed intake elbows - black, looks like dryer hose.
 
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