Build Troopie build

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the Pyro probe spigot, according to the instructions this spigot is for a specific brand of Pyrometer but i use the Autometer units.
this lead to needing an adapter.
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the adapter installed, not sure if i like that idea yet. i might plug this hole and remove the turbo and install the pyro preturbo...

still thinking it over. i am concerned the tip of the sender might be too close to the outside for an accurate reading...:hhmm:
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this is the suggested routing of the lines with the factory oil sender temp installed.
although this would work, i was concerned with the weight of the line and the oil sender snapping off the brass fitting. not sure if it ever happened to this kit but decided i didn't get all warm and fuzzy over it.
to be fair, the kit itself is very complete (except for the vauge instruction sheet) and excellent bang for the buck. you could install this kit in an afternoon easily.
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i like to have the factory gauges still working but have the aftermarket units installed as well as a check for each other.
i install the after market oil pressure gauge at the turbo end so you have instant notification should the oil pressure drop to the turbo.
i test fitted all the components and found they stuck up way to hight.
i took the tap and seated the threads down low so the fittings fitted much closer together.
now i am more confident on the strength of the unit but still might run a support off the exhaust manifold just to be safe.
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i wasn't overly impressed with the tiny bolt to hold the loom to the bracket to the exhaust manifold, i am sure it would work fine since there is very little stress but i decided to drill a second hole and tap a 6 mm bolt into it.
the routing of the oil pressure line from the turbo though the loom and around the back of the head.

i like this kit.
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next time i will take pics of my solution to the adapter fittings sticking straight out the side of the block.
remember, these are just my suggestions. i am sure there is nothing wrong with the design of the kit.
in the meantime she says enjoy the holiday weekend:
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so this was my solution to the length hanging off the block.
adapter out
T fitting
oil sender top
oil feed bottom
this moves the weight closer to the block which should resist engine vibration and possible cracking in the brass adapters.

the bottom photo is for comparision...
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If she was on the cover of the local gym membership brochure, even old fat people like me would consider joining.:)
......1978HJ45
 
nice pic lulo ...
updates soon, waiting for parts from all over to arrive.
 
quick answer
John (at Radd Cruisers) told me i would be happy, he is confident, i am confident.
 
I am really really excited to hear how this turbo kit works out.
i am having a conflict with myself whether or not to go with this kit or build my own and go with a gbetnik ct26.
I think in the end I will be happy with either one.
Pumped for updates Wayne.
 
Hey Wayne this build is just wicked as is all your builds! I have been following from the beginning and don't comment all that much but really enjoy the ingenuity, creativity & knowledge. I am looking forward seeing this truck up close once in Alberta. We need to setup a meet and greet somewhere in Southern Alberta. Is there a set timeline on when you will be bringing her across country?

Best of luck with the finishing details! Can't wait to see!
 
modifying my intercooler for this build. the idea is to get rid of all the plumbing and to make it generic for any 1HZ, 1PZ turbo build.
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when you are building a new rear diff there are a LOT of small parts needed. these are most of the ones for the e/brake on a FF disc rear.
the tower is still aluminum with a steel arm that goes through it. as most of us Canadians have found aluminum and steel and water becomes a coroded mess in short tme so when you are into the brakes for any reason make sure you put antisieze or water resistant grease between the moving parts.
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brake assembly complete
rear brakes waiting for some bolts from the states
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