Trim Packers / Rear Spacers who’s running them?

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linuxgod said:
I tried disconnecting the sway bar on the PS but IIRC the bolt has to be slid towards the center of the vehicle and the gas tank or skid or something was in the way, making it tremendously difficult. It's been a couple years so I'm going from memory here.

Anyone take the panhard rod (track bar) off? Someone suggested that to me previously though I haven't tried to dismantle the rear since.

Spring compressors help if you're doing it alone, but I feel like if I have to use one I'm doing something wrong since nobody else ever mentions them. Also at least the cheap one I have can scratch some paint off the springs (saying this not for suspension beauty but because I presume it may increase the likelihood of rust).
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I've attached a picture of the PS I removed, its just behind the gas tank and had no issues. I circled where I removed from.
20201028_113846.webp


I thought about doing the pan hard as well since saw posts from others about doing that, but then realized it might be a pain trying to center the axle back up and line the rod up.
 
afgman786 said:
I've attached a picture of the PS I removed, its just behind the gas tank and had no issues. I circled where I removed from.
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Ah ok I hadn't tried to unbolt from the top. I tried the horizontal bolt and while the nut comes loose the bolt won't come out without removing the gas tank skid
 
linuxgod said:
Ah ok I hadn't tried to unbolt from the top. I tried the horizontal bolt and while the nut comes loose the bolt won't come out without removing the gas tank skid
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I tried that one first too and ran into the same issue. Then saw the bolt up top and figured what's the worst that can happen its still the same sway bar. Luckily it was real easy to do and wasn't torqued too tight.
 
For what it's worth, I always (and carefully) use this Spring Compressor when I do any suspension work.
These compressors really help when I am working solo.
 
If you guys aren’t already doing it, try loosening the link end bolts that are easy to get to including the panhard rod. Each of these basically adds a rubber torsion spring to hold the axle up at ride height.

I had all but one of those loose when I did my rear suspension recently and there were no issues getting stock springs out or OMEs back in.

Edit: for the sway bar I loosened the two bolts on the passenger side bracket to frame, then put a jack & 4x4 under the KDSS arm to push the whole bar back up and get bolts started on reassembly.
 
bloc said:
If you guys aren’t already doing it, try loosening the link end bolts that are easy to get to including the panhard rod. Each of these basically adds a rubber torsion spring to hold the axle up at ride height.

I had all but one of those loose when I did my rear suspension recently and there were no issues getting stock springs out or OMEs back in.

Edit: for the sway bar I loosened the two bolts on the passenger side bracket to frame, then put a jack & 4x4 under the KDSS arm to push the whole bar back up and get bolts started on reassembly.
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Good to know. Will be tackling this today. Thanks for the tips.
 
Swapped the passenger side longer spring for a shorter driver side Tough Dog spring.

So I am now running the longer spring on the driver side and and the shorter spring on the passenger side and the lean is within Toyota’s specs.

Even with the shorter spring on the passenger side It is still 3/8” higher then the driver side that has the taller spring ... go figure.

This is Pretty close to level as I currently have just over 3/4 tank of fuel.

@bloc @TeCKis300 @linuxgod @afgman786 any of you run into something like this? I am wondering if there is a KDSS issue that needs to be addressed.


when i unbolted the passenger side top sway bar did yours have a lot of pressure behind it ? I had the KDSS opened up and When I unbolted the top sway bar attachment like in your picture it it came down with some force and launched the bushing a couple yards. I was able to install the new spring and then used a jack to get the sway bar back into position and bolted up.
 
TLC2013 said:
Swapped the passenger side longer spring for a shorter driver side Tough Dog spring.

So I am now running the longer spring on the driver side and and the shorter spring on the passenger side and the lean is within Toyota’s specs.

Even with the shorter spring on the passenger side It is still 3/8” higher then the driver side that has the taller spring ... go figure.

This is Pretty close to level as I currently have just over 3/4 tank of fuel.

@bloc @TeCKis300 @linuxgod @afgman786 any of you run into something like this? I am wondering if there is a KDSS issue that needs to be addressed.


when i unbolted the passenger side top sway bar did yours have a lot of pressure behind it ? I had the KDSS opened up and When I unbolted the top sway bar attachment like in your picture it it came down with some force and launched the bushing a couple yards. I was able to install the new spring and then used a jack to get the sway bar back into position and bolted up.
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Huh.. Did you have the driver side fully drooped? I wonder if that is what caused the sway bar to shoot down.

After adding trim packers I'm sitting at around 1/2" difference in the rear when I measured at the hub. I can barely see it and didn't care to chase after it. I also didn't measure before adding them, so not sure if it is a new difference or was there
 
afgman786 said:
Huh.. Did you have the driver side fully drooped? I wonder if that is what caused the sway bar to shoot down.

After adding trim packers I'm sitting at around 1/2" difference in the rear when I measured at the hub. I can barely see it and didn't care to chase after it. I also didn't measure before adding them, so not sure if it is a new difference or was there
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You are correct the driver side was not at full droop. Good call. Makes sense now. I am going to keep the KDSS valves open over night and see if that allows things to settle some more.
 
TLC2013 said:
You are correct the driver side was not at full droop. Good call. Makes sense now. I am going to keep the KDSS valves open over night and see if that allows things to settle some more.
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Drive around a bit with KDSS fully open in case one of the sway bars was cranked in the wrong position? It's a lot of fun making U-turns with KDSS open haha! If you're committed enough you could get some 3 wheel action, at least it felt possible.
 
Opening the KDSS balance screws allows pressure from the accumulators into the cylinder, forcing the shaft out and arm down. It is normal for the KDSS arm to want to push downward firmly when they are open.

A jack and board under the KDSS arm to push it and the sway bar back up in a controlled manner is probably the best way to approach this.
 
where / what are you using to source your rear coil spacers? After installing a rear bumper, I would like to gain a little height back.
 
DJCloz said:
where / what are you using to source your rear coil spacers? After installing a rear bumper, I would like to gain a little height back.
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I initially tried the ironman 20mm rear spacers but the inside diameter is like a 1/8"-1/4" too small. Butchered it up trying to get it to fit onto the bump stop. I found the OME 10mm spacers on ebay and they fit well.
 
DJCloz said:
where / what are you using to source your rear coil spacers? After installing a rear bumper, I would like to gain a little height back.
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Cruiser Outfitters sells them. Along with other vendors
 
TLC2013 said:
I initially tried the ironman 20mm rear spacers but the inside diameter is like a 1/8"-1/4" too small. Butchered it up trying to get it to fit onto the bump stop. I found the OME 10mm spacers on ebay and they fit well.
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Had same issue with my 30mm TT spacers. Had a template 3D printed to guide a hand coping saw. They have been in for a year now with no issues. FWIW see post #19 in this thread if anyone is interested: Help needed with Trail Taylor rear spacer install - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/help-needed-with-trail-taylor-rear-spacer-install.1218258/
 
B Todd said:
Sorry to revive this thread. Are you guys using the OME 10mm trim packers for 80 series?
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yep, I am. I had to force the trim packer on the cone to sit flush. it won't just "fall in", I applied a light coating of grease to get it to sit.
 
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