Towing/ Camping /Trailers (2 Viewers)

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You can’t make a 1/4 ton Tongue too long. Longer the better.
I agree I like the length on a 1/4 ton. You can actually see it back there.

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What's the best way to clean paint off the ID tags without ruining the tag? Or can it be done? Are they etched on or just painted?
 
Well guess we wont be able to save the images. Maybe we can get some new ones and then transfer the stamped ID info onto them. There looks to be at least 2 coats of paint over them currently. Erin started working on it yesterday a little.

Is there a go-to place for bearings, seals and such?
 
Guess I just need to help her get it up on some stands so she can pull it apart to inspect them
 
Well guess we wont be able to save the images. Maybe we can get some new ones and then transfer the stamped ID info onto them. There looks to be at least 2 coats of paint over them currently. Erin started working on it yesterday a little.

Is there a go-to place for bearings, seals and such?

Try some of the citrus-based paint stripper. It does a pretty good job of removing it layer by layer if you don’t let it sit too long.
 
I made a 6' tongue extension, pulled the lunette and ran it back to the first crossmember under the trailer. Wound up being ~55 from hitch to front wall of trailer. Made the trailer very easy to pull.

Below was my goto for bearings and seals.
Army Jeep Parts - M100 Parts
 
Lou and I took the 2x3 on the Goat Tail all the way to the rear crossmember. If I was doing another M416 I would do that. It does not need the strength but it would allow you to run a receiver off the back to carry a bike rack or something
 
Had some time this weekend to do a little more work on the trailer

Got a floor cut. I’m going to lay everything out on the floor and then use t-nuts to secure everything so I can easily add and remove things.
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Next weekend I’ll put the side panels on. My plan for the side panels is to weld vertical 1” square tubing studs up the side and install rivnuts in them to them bolt the wood side panels into. the reason for this is to be able to route wires behind the walls and also so there is not bolts going through the side of the tub.

I’ve been collecting all the things needed for a full electrical syste. I plan to mount a group 31 battery in the trailer supplying power a blue sea fuse box. I have a inverter I’m mounted as well as interior and exterior lights.

For those of you that have wired a trailer, what is the best way to pull power from the tow vehicle to the trailer so that the trailer battery is charged while the tow vehicle is running? My current idea was to installed a 12v isolator solenoid like this between the battery and the truck. Would this work or is there a better option?
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I’d go full #EAF and put on a big ass solar panel & charge controller and leave it running all the time.

I would, but with the RTT up top there isn’t much room to spare. I think if this doesn’t work I will install a Redarc DC-to-DC charge system.
 
Lou and I took the 2x3 on the Goat Tail all the way to the rear crossmember. If I was doing another M416 I would do that. It does not need the strength but it would allow you to run a receiver off the back to carry a bike rack or something

Pics pls
 
Installed a front runner flip down table on the tailgate. I used rivnuts to secure the tailgate bolts.
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I still had not installed a tag yet so I shot some m6 rivnuts into the tailgate to hold the LED tail light bolts I found on a motorcycle website.
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Interior side panels got cut and started to install today. Each panel will be bolted to the steel tubing studs using rivnuts and bolts. 12 bolts to undo and you can then take the panels off.
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@JTU post a link to those led bolts please.

I like the side hinge tailgate a lot.
 

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