Torque numbers for Suspension

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Joined
Apr 25, 2014
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373
Location
Phoenix, Arizona
Hey gang....Just installed an entire new SOR Heavy Duty Suspension 3" Lift Kit on my 85 Fj60.
I added the Skid plates, they seem pretty burly..hope that they do well. Read some old reviews about it after the fact..so if they suck, I am gonna change to the Bolt flip kit from 4+plus.

Cleaned the hell out of everything and painted too. Upgraded to greaseable bolts and pins...OME Steering Stabilizer, Rear sway bar from a 62, New Braided Brake lines all around..( my first brake line bleeding) I got the bug..this was fun.

While I was at it..I installed a new Cat back Exhaust system..seems to be pretty good so far. I know I am gonna need an alignment after this and not sure I can do it, simply because this was my first job on her...any input?

Looking all over for torque values on Suspension U Bolts? Any help on where to look?
Did a search but is not bringing up anything. Also, waited to see what Shims might be needed first..Looks like a 6Degree..so going to work on that this weekend. Having some other trouble as the front Shocks now rub directly on the Front sway bark Lift Link that I installed...Will the 6 degree shims correct this? I am worried it might be the skid plates as they move the shock base closer to sway bar? I ordered some MAF High angle stabilizer links..with the articulation, maybe this and the shims will correct?
Any help to all my crazy questions would be great!
This Site has been great getting me all jacked up and ready to do bigger jobs, Thanks!
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U-Bolts are 90ft/lbs
Shackle/Pin bolts are 67ft/lbs
Shock mounting hardware rear is 27ft/lbs and I think the front TOP is something like 14ft/lbs.

All torque numbers are in the FSM, check my sig if you don't have them.
 
Parking brake cable bracket on the rear diff cover is upside down.

Shiney under there!
 
Those torque numbers mentioned in the manual are only valid for OEM hardware.
If you torque the front u-bolt nuts to 90 ft-lbs with thicker springs, you'll bend off the top U-bolt retainer thats welded to the axle housing.

That spec required that the nut jamb down on the the last thread of the u-bolt. If the springs are thicker, you'll never reach it.

Same with the rear u-bolt nuts. You won't bend off a retainer, since there isn't one, but that spec was met only when the nut bottomed out on the last thread of the OEM u-bolt. Locking it down.

If you've got thicker rear leafs than stock, or different u-bolts, don't go cranking them down to the specs found in the manual.

Do it by feel. Use common sense.

FSM torque specs for shackles are only valid for the OEM shackles too, as the nut bottoms out the side plate to the bushing pin.

If you use that spec with aftermarket shackles that don't have stops on the bushing pin to prevent the side plate from crushing the bushing...It will be crushed.
 
Any Thoughts
Those torque numbers mentioned in the manual are only valid for OEM hardware.
If you torque the front u-bolt nuts to 90 ft-lbs with thicker springs, you'll bend off the top U-bolt retainer thats welded to the axle housing.

That spec required that the nut jamb down on the the last thread of the u-bolt. If the springs are thicker, you'll never reach it.

Same with the rear u-bolt nuts. You won't bend off a retainer, since there isn't one, but that spec was met only when the nut bottomed out on the last thread of the OEM u-bolt. Locking it down.

If you've got thicker rear leafs than stock, or different u-bolts, don't go cranking them down to the specs found in the manual.

Do it by feel. Use common sense.

FSM torque specs for shackles are only valid for the OEM shackles too, as the nut bottoms out the side plate to the bushing pin.

If you use that spec with aftermarket shackles that don't have stops on the bushing pin to prevent the side plate from crushing the bushing...It will be crushed.
Ok, this all makes sense....Any thoughts about the Stabilizer bar and it hitting my Shock? Will the Shims correct this?
 
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