- Thread starter
- #61
Still waiting on the Special Assistant West Coast Promo Man...
Today, not so funny - roll over
- Thread starter little_joe
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- Thread starter
- #62
Alright, the insurance adjuster just left. The 40 is definitely totaled, and I need to come up with some fair market value numbers. All of the below assume parts are already in hand, just looking for labor costs or hours required.
- Labor to replace leaf springs, u-bolts, and shocks?
- Labor to install an exhaust?
- Labor to replace front wheel cylinders and bleed brakes?
- Labor to replace slave cylinder and bleed system?
- Labor to replace all steering rod ends?
- Suspension: 4-6 hrs.
- Exhaust: 1-2 hrs.
- Wheel cylinders: 2 hrs.
- Slave cylinder: 1 hr.
- Steering ends: 2 hrs.
6704360349753 hrs Joe time...awesome!!
Your estimate sounds reasonable but I don’t know if book time is reasonable. Maybe add another 4-5 hrs for JIC?
@Trollhole or @Southeast Overland might could weight in on shop labor rates and also comment on your times.
Took me 6 hours just to replace the rear springs, shocks, pins, u-bolts and shackles. Of course I have never done it before so I don't know much about what I am doing and my age is slowing me down. Still need to spend another 6 to 8 hours to complete the front. Otherwise I believe your numbers are plausible.
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- #66
I approached mine as - It's not a race. Take the time, do it right, safety above all. Would have liked to assist with yours, alas....
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- Jan 6, 2012
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Dealership pays about 3 hours to do a pair of leafsprings at the dealership on the rear of tacoma's fyi. Not including if its rusted bad which would increase labor if they have to torch and air hammer stuff. I would think wheel cylinders would be about 1.5 hours per drum.
Shop rates vary widely depending on your location. $65-150/hr is typical.
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- #69
The process seems to move quite slowly, but got some preliminary numbers today. The adjuster pegged it a total loss, value of ~$12.5k. My stated value policy was lower, so... I am waiting to talk with a total loss rep out of Charlotte some time this week so we can get all of the numbers sorted out. Once I have specifics, I'll share them.
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- #70
If anyone is still reading this, 2 questions, but first some context. The 40 runs fine, frame is straight, Johnny did a new clutch + tranny/xfer rebuild, overall it drives, steers, and stops. Top and upper panels are destroyed, hatch may be salvageable. All body panels are dented/smushed, seems only maybe firewall is straight.
- What value would you place on it as a salvage buy-back?
- What value would you place on it sold as-is?
Not sure of your attachment to the truck, but I would take the money and start over with different one. Or get an attorney and sue them for more and get even a better one. Attorneys will cost, but insurance companies tend to low ball first to see if you go away.
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- #72
@Izzyandsue yes I am weighing options. Maybe it's weird, but I see it as somewhat unethical to let this one go to the crusher when the chassis/drivetrain is intact and quite decent - it just needs a tub.
1. $500ish based on fact it runs and drives 'good'
2. $1500 is likely a fair and easy amount to get for it as is. Disclaimer...I have not,inspected it just seen pics.
You didn't ask wether you should buy it back/keep it or move on to another truck BUT it all depends on what you want out of a 40. If it's just to drive around town, have a stock rig and rock the nostalgia then say good bye and buy another one. If you want to build a trail truck then you've got a great platform to start with and might be able to do so in a monetarily advantageous (to you) way.
please don't let it go to the crusher, whatever you do.
someone will buy it.
cash pay out and then buy it back leave enough money to piece together a new body?
someone will buy it.
cash pay out and then buy it back leave enough money to piece together a new body?
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- #77
Well, I got the verdict today and I'm not real happy.
Total loss.
When I ensured it for stated value, being the dumbass I am, I gave them the purchase price.
So that is my settlement.
I can buy it back for 15% stated value, $1200 and ~$6k in my pocket (accounting for deductible also).
The adjuster put the loss at $12,613, but they cannot go above stated value. Stated value was set at purchase, and does not include any improvements since. Coincidentally, my insurance renewal is May, and the stated value would have been greater. Learn from my mistake.
Total loss.
When I ensured it for stated value, being the dumbass I am, I gave them the purchase price.
So that is my settlement.
I can buy it back for 15% stated value, $1200 and ~$6k in my pocket (accounting for deductible also).
The adjuster put the loss at $12,613, but they cannot go above stated value. Stated value was set at purchase, and does not include any improvements since. Coincidentally, my insurance renewal is May, and the stated value would have been greater. Learn from my mistake.
Well, what do you value the drivetrain and frame/vin tags? if you do the buyback and sell thr drivetrain to someone, and the frame and tags to someone, you still can come out ahead. then get something else to drive.
Just an opinion
Just an opinion
Could be worse. No reason not to buy it back.
Title would be salvage tho, correct?