To replace or rebuild

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earthcruiser

earthcruiser

Joined
Dec 26, 2005
Threads
15
Messages
77
So about a month ago, I decided to figure out a vacumn hose leak on my 78 "2F" 55. I soon figured out it was a timing issue and would go ahead and address that issue. Soon after I found that I may have a damaged crankshaft pulley. So I did the ebay thing and got the replacement pulley, new front seal and new timing gear cover from toyota. Then went to pull the pulley, found that the pulley was damaged, the keyway was damaged and the keyway slot was damaged.

So I went to a local cruiser shop in Denver, the guy there had no suggestions other than replacing the engine. At this time I haven't decided to cross into the dark side. I don't want to replace with a 327 or 350. There are a number of high mileage 2F on craigslist, but I would be replacing a tired engine with a tired engine. After contacting a good friend about a machine shop, the machine shop has a contact and replace the Crankshaft.

Now what I thought originally was a vacumn leak is a crankshaft, rod bearing, main bears, keyway, pulley, seals, gaskets, and I might as well do the clutch while I'm in there. This also gave me the excuse to buy a engine hoist.

So here is my question, should I replace the crank and all effect on the engine I have or get another 2F and put fresh gaskets and seals on it. I think in the end, they will both cost about the same.

Either way, I will need to buy a gasket kit. Does anyone have a reccomendation for a company to purchase from. I have seen plenty of entries that replace the front and rear seals with original toyota parts, what about the rest. Who has the better gasket kits? SOR, CCOT, MAF, or JT? Same question on the clutch? Has anyone used the center force standard? I heard there is a issue with the fly wheel if you use the double friction.

I'm looking for opinions. Thank you for your thoughts...
Cruiser 006.webp
 
Jim C. and Mark A. have some very good observations on rebuild recommendations on the tech forum I believe and they have soldme on rebuilding rather than changing or swapping.....just got my cam in from Isky after regrinding, reprofiling and hardening....just itching to get on with the rebuild.......believe among other recommends was balancing crank, pistons and rods, hasting rings and felpro gaskets..there are a lot ofother suggestions but those are the ones that I can remember offthe top of my head.........try to find the thread on rebuilding the 2F engine:cheers:

Lou

P.S. if I would had had the money would have considered a diesel...............BUT that is a scary process for me.........need my vehicle up and running ASAP so it has a high milage 2F while the rebuild is going on
 
Rebuild vs. Replace

Today, I pulled the engine and the crank. Overall the bearing and crank look to be in great condition. The engine has 167,000 miles on it and this is the first time it was opened on the lower end. The throw out bearing needs replacing and also the rear crankshaft bearing.

I will see what the machine shop has to offer before I finish making my mind up. I am still leaning toward the rebuild. The goal is to be back on the road by 4th of July.

Does anyone have suggestions for gaskets or clutches? Thanks for the input.
 
Howdy! I'm no help on the parts recommendations, but a good machine shop can rebuild and rekey that crank. We do this all the time on my printing presses at work. We even snap off the ends, and then re-stub them. Works fine. Recutting the keyway on your crank is a no-brainer, since it does not have to index to the engine timing. It can be cut into the opposing side so it is in virgin steel. Just weld up the old one and check the O.D. and fit to the crank pulley. John
 
To Rebuild or Replace

Here is the latest picture
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Rebuild the lower end of the 2F

After digging into the engine. It has 167,000 miles and has never been opened. It needs a pilot bearing, throwout bearing, and crankshaft work. I'm still looking for a good machine shop. More to come
cruiser 004a.webp
 
If I remember correctly, Mark W has had success brazing on cranks for worn out keyways?

I have an old Mazda truck that has a JB welded crank due to an idiot somehow replacing the original harmonic balancer crooked. Works just fine.

I would ask some of the Rising Sun folks about a decent machine shop local to you.
 
I've put a blog on the rising suns site. After investigating five shops, I've run into a dead end. Looks like I'm going to have a different used crank milled. Should still come out fine in the end. It will be another week before I'm back on the road. This will give me time to work rocker panels and other bodywork. Thanks for the input. I will post more on the rebuild as I accomplish it. Does anyone have a good source for a clutch or has ever used a centerforce clutch? Is there an issue with the flywheel with the centerfore clutch? Thanks again.
 
I've been runnin' a CenterForce I for years. No problems, jsut pay attention to the adjustment
 
earthcruiser said:
I've put a blog on the rising suns site. After investigating five shops, I've run into a dead end. Looks like I'm going to have a different used crank milled. Should still come out fine in the end. It will be another week before I'm back on the road. This will give me time to work rocker panels and other bodywork. Thanks for the input. I will post more on the rebuild as I accomplish it. Does anyone have a good source for a clutch or has ever used a centerforce clutch? Is there an issue with the flywheel with the centerfore clutch? Thanks again.
Click to expand...
Howdy! Look around for non-automotive machine shops. I have a guy that has/can/will do about anything. He did a straight shaft from scratch, 8'long, 4"od, with 3 steps on one end and 4 steps on the other. 4 keyways all indexed. Half the price of the OEM. Works great. He even loaned me a 2.5" pipe tap so I could put caps into my bumper tubes. John
 
Bearings

Can anyone tell me what the difference is in Flange main bearing and thrust main bearing? Also why is there a change in the 2F and when the change happened? I know this is a lot, I didn't realize the 2F changed during its tenure. Are there any other major changes that occurred. I hope to have elwood back on the road pretty soon. Hopefully before the rising suns rallye. Thanks for the help:beer::beer::beer:
 
Gasket

The crank is back from the machine shop.:) New factory gaskets for everything are sitting on the work bench.:):) New vacumn factory vacumn hoses for emissions are sitting on workbench.:):):) The only things I still need to buy are the clutch, new key way for the pulley/balancer and exhaust gasket for the header. Hopefully, I will be able to pickup everything this week.

I have one further question that I need advice on:

What is the best way to beat the exhaust leaking when replacing the header gasket. I have replaced, tightened, retightened this gasket four times in the last two years. Is there a secret that anyone knows about to get this exhaust tight. There is nothing worse than having to drive with the windows cracked in the winter time. Thanks for all the help. Pictures will be posted as the install is accomplished. Thanks again. I will be driving to the next years Rising suns ralllye. :cool::cool::cool::cool::beer:
 
Jim C ended up machining the intake and exhaust manifold for my :princess:FJ 60 and since then not a bit of leakage + he recommended and sent the Felpro gasket....if momma is happy then I can work on the piggy :D

Lou
 
The Crankshaft is back and in the 55. A couple weeks and it'll be back on the road.
Cruiser 003a.webp
 
Getting there

With Bell Housing, and flywheel
Photo0023a.webp
 
Header

So I'm getting to the point that the header is being worked. I brought it to the local machine shop. I was told that there was not enough land to surface sufficently and they suggested I cut the steel between the header pipes. That way, when the header is bolted to the manifold it will flex and seal. Has anyone done this? Does it seal sufficently? Are there any draw backs? Thanks for any input.:confused:
 
What kind of header do you have? I have a Man-a-Fre 6-1 header that has been a PITA during my entire engine swap/build and it still freakin' leaks. I was advised not to shave/grind the header either so I have used different washers to build up the difference between the header and intake manifold. I cut some washers in half to not interfere with the intake manifold. I tried this a few times and thought I finally had it tight, until I started the engine. I used an OEM manifold and may use the aftermarket gasket that came with the header and the OEM gasket next time along with some RTV sealant. This may help. Let us know what you try.
 
How did you guess I have the Man-A-Fre 6 - 1. I took a flat plane (level) to check the difference between each set of pipes. There is almost 1/8th inch cumulative between the first and third set. Descision time: Plan # 1, I'm going to take a plasma cutter, separate the bar and cut some washer and take a flat file to level out as much as I can. Plan B: is to weld a bead and have it machined. I will post results as I go.

As of today, I have the flywheel in place, the clutch disc, pressure plate and bellhousing installed. I went to put the fork back on and the retaining hanger is broken. Called Toyota and was able to order a replacement fork and clips. They will be in on Wednesday. That means one more week sitting in the garage.

Meanwhile, I'm installing rockers and coating with POR-15.
 
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