AATLAS1X said:
...What are the best pads to use, I have tried to find HP pads like Hawk and other run of the mill brands with no luck. It will be a daily driver so I want stopping power!...
I've used and recommend
http://praisedynobrake.com/ parts. PDB uses kevlar in their composite to enable more sparing use of metallic particles which, in turn, they claim produces less wear to rotors/drums thru less metal to metal contact and less heat– all things being equal. For the last 12 years, I've found PDB pads and shoes to be quiet, low dust (no carbon black & barely noticeable), strong stopping, and very heat resistent due to the heat handling qualities of kevlar.
dgangle said:
I just got off the phone with TLC. The 'monster calipers' have four 40mm pistons. Based upon this, I can see no performance advantage over using the 92-94 V6 4 Runner calipers. As a disadvantage, the TLC's use the smaller FJ40 pad which will wear faster as compaired to the larger 4 Runner...[/url]
I'm no brake engineer, but I'd bet that one couldn't argue with more pad surface = more stopping ability. Kinda like the "no substitute for cubic inches" argument. But I beg to differ on the SSBC/TLC calipers having no performance advantage over the foreskin calipers.
The aluminum calipers will:
1. dissipate heat better.
2. reduce unsprung weight.
3. are probably stiffer bodied to keep better pad alignment.
4. May produce less pad and rotor wear as a result of #1 and #3.
AATLAS1X said:
...I also bought the big vented drilled rotors from Brembo and cant wait to see what they do...
I recommend against both cross-drilled and sloted rotors. The slots REDUCE stopping power but increase cooling. The slots help throw out brake dust away from the rotor surface to provide the next braking action a "clean" rotor. These are great attributes for racing, but not for street vehicles. Maybe one could make a case for slotted rotors on a tow vehicle for downhill grades with an auto trans. And the holes often crack, collect crap, and rust which can contaminate the pads. Racers don't care since they use new pads every race (or so if on a tight budget). I recommend you return the rotors and purchase one of the following in order of cost from least to most expensive:
1. Stock rotors.
2. Stock rotors and have them cryo'd.
3. Nodular iron rotors (available thru PDB, but I don't know if for FJs)
4. Cryo'd nodular iron rotors (again thru PDB).
I will also see if there is a rear shoe worth boying over OEM.
Again, I recommend PDB.
DGANGLE, I think you need to order up a set for your ride...............
He's not worthy.
!
