Timing cover removal fzj80 - stuck
- Thread starter Ancient
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- 80 series repair repair
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get a manual before you break something I'm pretty sure a lot more has to happen for it to come off
From a quick search
To take off the timing cover you need to lift the engine off of the mounts, drive front DS and sway bar, lower oil pan, upper oil pan and oil level sender, and the the front cover. You will need black FIPG, oil level sender oring, lower timing cover rectangle gasket and the 2 timing cover orings.
From a quick search
To take off the timing cover you need to lift the engine off of the mounts, drive front DS and sway bar, lower oil pan, upper oil pan and oil level sender, and the the front cover. You will need black FIPG, oil level sender oring, lower timing cover rectangle gasket and the 2 timing cover orings.
Fj80oregon
GOLD Star
Have you removed the upper pan nuts and bolts on the bottom that go into the cover?
I would remove the two studs that go into the cover that are held on by nuts through the pan.
I would remove the two studs that go into the cover that are held on by nuts through the pan.
- Thread starter
- #4
If I remove the studs from the upper oil pan, wouldn’t I be able just to pull it out from there instead of removing the upper oil pan completely?
Some of the bolts that hold the AC compressor need to be removed. I can't remember if they go into the upper oil pan or the timing cover. Maybe both.
Edit.
Here is photo of what is left when the cover is removed. Might help.
Second edit. Here is a better shot shows pretty much the location of every fastener.
I think you have them all. When I pulled mine I have always removed the oil pump cover first. There may be some resistance because of that.
Edit.
Here is photo of what is left when the cover is removed. Might help.
Second edit. Here is a better shot shows pretty much the location of every fastener.
I think you have them all. When I pulled mine I have always removed the oil pump cover first. There may be some resistance because of that.
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- Thread starter
- #6
The timing cover
Without breaking it and with the head on? Good luck.
Fj80oregon
GOLD Star
That’s the idea. Removing the upper pan is ideal as you will be fighting the oil pump interface with the gear and the block trying to lift up and the 4 studs and dowel inserts. This is why pulling the pan is ideal or pulling the motor. Hard to know if you going to get a good seal trying to fight that into place with fresh FIPG.
- Thread starter
- #9
The head is off
A couple of images showing the short vertical studs that dive through the upper oil pan as mentioned by FJ80Oregon above:
Vertical studs at bottom of timing chain cover:
Rear view of timing chain cover, vertical studs circled:
Different topic but FWIW the large arrow in the photos above indicates a pry point located above the oil pump cover. That area is known to develop an oil seep which might be confused with a oil pump cover leak and/or a distributor O-ring leak (or all three at the same time).
Vertical studs at bottom of timing chain cover:
Rear view of timing chain cover, vertical studs circled:
Different topic but FWIW the large arrow in the photos above indicates a pry point located above the oil pump cover. That area is known to develop an oil seep which might be confused with a oil pump cover leak and/or a distributor O-ring leak (or all three at the same time).
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Truly, I wish you only the best in your project. I'm sure it will work out well for you. That said; this is why I advocate for pulling the whole shootin' match out in the first place. Every "project" is easy and confidence inspiring.
Happy trails!
i feel ya dude.
Fj80oregon
GOLD Star
Nice work, when installing I highly recommend two people as you only get one shot not smearing the FIPG!!