I see references to the factory setting of 7* BTDC, and one other that references 11* BTDC...does anyone have input on other various degrees and how it effected their performance AND gas mileage?
Thanks!
Thanks!
Timing Adjustment for a 3FE Motor
- Thread starter Cruiser Jimmy
- Start date
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hi there,
ok, maybe I'm just going crazy but I looked and I swear I can't find it...
I spent a good 30 mins with my head in that engine bay..
I couldn't find anything that looked like that timing window...
Plus I have another issue..
My cheapo timing light needs to be connected in series with the spark plug and lead from cylinder 1.
I'm guessing I'm gonna have to try and source the FSM.
Anyone know where we can get these in pdf form nowadays? Or portions of it?
ok, maybe I'm just going crazy but I looked and I swear I can't find it...
I spent a good 30 mins with my head in that engine bay..
I couldn't find anything that looked like that timing window...
Plus I have another issue..
My cheapo timing light needs to be connected in series with the spark plug and lead from cylinder 1.
I'm guessing I'm gonna have to try and source the FSM.
Anyone know where we can get these in pdf form nowadays? Or portions of it?
See the second picture at the top of the thread, the panel in the picture is the right side cover of the engine, follow it all the way to the back where the block flares to meet the bell housing you will find the cover/plug for the timing window.
Question, are you supposed to set timing ONLY at 7* BTDC on 3FE and let ECU do the rest, or can you advance initial setting a little?
I live at ~5000' and have timing over 7* BTDC on my 2F for power/vacuum, but not sure if that will mess with the 3FE ECU...
I live at ~5000' and have timing over 7* BTDC on my 2F for power/vacuum, but not sure if that will mess with the 3FE ECU...
- Thread starter
- #25
I have heard that others have played with the timing a little for more power. However, it's a good idea to adjust the MAF sensor also so the engine does not knock.
I have had the timing at 12º before. That was during the winter, then as the seasons changed I adjusted back down 7 because I started to get pre-detonation.
I have had the timing at 12º before. That was during the winter, then as the seasons changed I adjusted back down 7 because I started to get pre-detonation.
Please help..I'm replacing the distributor on my fj60 but now i can't get the motor going! I did mark the old distributor body in relation to the block with the the rotor facing number1 and the full circle mark lined up with the timing peg. The mark is similar to your pic but further from the fw's outer edge. \before I put in the new dizzy I removed the rocker cover to make sure that no1 had both valves closed and no6 was rocking. However, I'm not sure about the timing mark on the flywheel. Apart from the circle mark, there is also a semi circle mark the same distance from the fw's edge. If i line the new dizzy up with the full circle, no1 is not on compression stroke, so i lined it up with the semi circle which was perfect...but she will not start. Even if i turn the distributor body in both directions while someone else cranks the engine! There is spark and the contact breaker gap is correct. I'm confused... please help...
Hi Johann, and welcome to MUD!
A few items:
If you are working on an FJ60 (w/ manual trans) your flywheel will look different than the automatic tranny flywheel pictured. You will have a 2F vs. the 3FE we are discussing primarily in this thread. The 2F and 3FE are very similar. Your flywheel will have a line for TDC and a "ball" or "BB" sticking out of the flywheel for 7 degrees BTDC.
When you have the line or BB in the timing window, and cylinder #1 as at TDC, I believe your rotor should be pointing towards the cylinder #4 vicinity.
Try these out and let us know!
What year is your 60? Where are you located?
Good luck!
A few items:
If you are working on an FJ60 (w/ manual trans) your flywheel will look different than the automatic tranny flywheel pictured. You will have a 2F vs. the 3FE we are discussing primarily in this thread. The 2F and 3FE are very similar. Your flywheel will have a line for TDC and a "ball" or "BB" sticking out of the flywheel for 7 degrees BTDC.
When you have the line or BB in the timing window, and cylinder #1 as at TDC, I believe your rotor should be pointing towards the cylinder #4 vicinity.
Try these out and let us know!
What year is your 60? Where are you located?
Good luck!
Just take it slow; you can't really srew anything up if you're careful.
Before you even start the rig, make sure you're able to loosen the dizzy adjustment bolt, and make sure you clearly see the timing peephole at the back of the engine.
Great Thread
Hi, I used this thread today and it was very helpful. I've adjusted plenty of timing, but dang...the viewing window is terribly placed on the 3FE and without the inspection mirror hint, I would have pulled my hair out. I rigged up a mirror and got it done really quickly.
Also got the idle adjusted properly. I never noticed that the idle screw was bottomed out. I backed it off 1/2 turn and its dead on 650rpm now.
I'm still not sure what the FSM is referring to when it says that once the TE1-E1 jumper is removed, it should idle at 12deg BTDC? Once I removed the jumper, I couldn't even see the mark in the window with my mirror. Oh well, it seems to running better with more response.
Thanks for the right up and the pics.
Hi, I used this thread today and it was very helpful. I've adjusted plenty of timing, but dang...the viewing window is terribly placed on the 3FE and without the inspection mirror hint, I would have pulled my hair out. I rigged up a mirror and got it done really quickly.
Also got the idle adjusted properly. I never noticed that the idle screw was bottomed out. I backed it off 1/2 turn and its dead on 650rpm now.
I'm still not sure what the FSM is referring to when it says that once the TE1-E1 jumper is removed, it should idle at 12deg BTDC? Once I removed the jumper, I couldn't even see the mark in the window with my mirror. Oh well, it seems to running better with more response.
Thanks for the right up and the pics.
Old thread, but for any that struggle to find the timing window, thought I'd post these shots since I have these parts on the bench and clean.
Timing marks on flex plate. They are not white from the factory - I just took the opportunity to add paint for my own sanity later.
View media item 60507
That's the hole and the "needle"
View media item 60506
Plug is swollen, yours may also be like this - I'm getting a new one if I can find it, cause it's distorted and doesn't fit very well.
View media item 60505
This is the "view" from the engine bay, not that you can really see all this. Main thing to note is the round hole to the far left (US passenger side). That's where the starter mounts, and juts out toward the front of the vehicle. Just above the starter mounts, then, is the rubber plug for the timing hole. Good chance that it's unrecognizable, with the rubber swollen by exposure to leaking PS Fluid and obscured by accumulated grime. I didn't even recognize it till I started cleaning the plate.
View media item 60504
Timing marks on flex plate. They are not white from the factory - I just took the opportunity to add paint for my own sanity later.
View media item 60507
That's the hole and the "needle"
View media item 60506
Plug is swollen, yours may also be like this - I'm getting a new one if I can find it, cause it's distorted and doesn't fit very well.
View media item 60505
This is the "view" from the engine bay, not that you can really see all this. Main thing to note is the round hole to the far left (US passenger side). That's where the starter mounts, and juts out toward the front of the vehicle. Just above the starter mounts, then, is the rubber plug for the timing hole. Good chance that it's unrecognizable, with the rubber swollen by exposure to leaking PS Fluid and obscured by accumulated grime. I didn't even recognize it till I started cleaning the plate.
View media item 60504
Sorry if this is a stupid question, once you get the vehicle to operating temp, idle to 650 rpm, diagnosis box leads jumped, do you then turn the engine off and aline the timing bb with the needle by turning over the engine by hand?
No, you set the timing while the engine is running with the diagnostic connections TE1 and E1 jumped. 3FE may like a little more timing than stock, 9-11 degrees.