Thoughts on front locker for 100 series land cruiser?
- Thread starter JRsLC100
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Potentially stupid question - if I’m swapping in an Eaton locker, does it make a difference whether the front diff assembly is from a 98-99 (OEM 2-pinion 4:30) or an 00-02 (OEM 4-pinion 4:30), or are all 98-02 4:30 diff assemblies with Eaton e-lockers equivalently durable?
Front diff blew on my 99 and I want to make sure it doesn’t happen again. Thinking of getting a cheap used assembly and driving/shipping it to ECGS for an Eaton front locker to be installed.
Front diff blew on my 99 and I want to make sure it doesn’t happen again. Thinking of getting a cheap used assembly and driving/shipping it to ECGS for an Eaton front locker to be installed.
It's my understanding that the locker carrier replaces the pinion gears so what you start with (2 vs. 4 pinion) is immaterial. Gear ratio is the only concern. But please start with a 2 pinion so there's one more 4 pinion out there 
. I think I'm going to stop at rear locker only.
. I think I'm going to stop at rear locker only.
They're interchangeable. My 05 LX has a housing from a 98-02.
yup 98-02 is 4.30 gears.
The drive flange is also different - there's a spline count difference between the 4.30s and 4.10 pinion gear.
I actually regeared front/rear to 4.30 and added lockers when I blew my front diff in my '05. Gets everything close to stock with 33s and I got the complete 98-02 diffs *cheap* (like, $400 total for front/rear/T-case).
I ended up getting the 4 pinion upgrade on my 98 and added an ARB air locker because why not. Used it several times, probably never actually necessary if i had chosen a better line, but it engages so much easier than the rear locker and just for that it has been worthwhile imo. added bonus of having onboard air now too
After grenading the original 2-pinion differential on my '99, I recently replaced it with a 4-pinion differential with an Eaton locker, built by Valley Hybrids. It's controlled by an 80 series dual locker knob switch in place of the original single locker one. I haven't had chance to test it out but I will in a few months. I don't anticipate needing it too often given the type of wheeling that I do, but I feel more confident in having a stronger setup vs. OEM.
@cbranch , @Exiled
I think I'm missing something here...why are you guys starting with 4 pinion diffs just to then put in lockers? It's my understanding that the installation of a locker completely replaces the pinion gears whether 2 or 4 so it doesn't matter what you start with as long as the ring and pinion gear ratios match up to the rear diff.
Took the truck to Slee and asked them to do the 4pinion and they said 'why not add an air locker while we're at it' and I agreed
Didn't really put much thought into it tbh
AFAIK that's correct.
So not sure how someone would
The locker replaces the entire center minus the R/P.
It doesn't care about OEM pinions and there's no need for them after the swap, it has its own.
Exactly. So there’s no point starting with a 4 pinion instead of a 2 unless there was other damage.
Thanks to everyone who's contributed to this thread, the info has been super helpful! I did some more digging into locker reliability and it seems like the consensus is that the ARB locker is stronger than the Eaton locker. Is there any metric on how much stronger the ARB actually is?
I already have an OEM locking rear diff in the truck so the air locker would just be for the front diff, and with the extra cost of the compressor, the air locker would likely be a bit more expensive. My goal is to (somewhat cost effectively) swap in a front diff that will not break again... so if the ARB is only marginally stronger than the Eaton, I'll probably go with the Eaton, but if the ARB makes it basically impossible to blow the front diff, maybe it's worth paying up for.
If the front diff is strengthened with a locker, more of the stress when slamming a front tire down will be translated to the CVs? And if the front diff is locked when a front tire lands, there will be less stress on the diff since it was already sending 50% rotational force to each tire, right?
I already have an OEM locking rear diff in the truck so the air locker would just be for the front diff, and with the extra cost of the compressor, the air locker would likely be a bit more expensive. My goal is to (somewhat cost effectively) swap in a front diff that will not break again... so if the ARB is only marginally stronger than the Eaton, I'll probably go with the Eaton, but if the ARB makes it basically impossible to blow the front diff, maybe it's worth paying up for.
If the front diff is strengthened with a locker, more of the stress when slamming a front tire down will be translated to the CVs? And if the front diff is locked when a front tire lands, there will be less stress on the diff since it was already sending 50% rotational force to each tire, right?
My report after having my ARB front locker for a year. I wheel a lot down here in the desert and actually don't use the front often but I am so glad I installed it. Makes it much easier to scale difficult spots I probably could have scaled but much easier on the Cruiser. I installed the ARB dual compressor for it and doubles for airing up tires and air tools. I do need to add an air tank as well. I do have the factory rear locker too. So if you're on the fence about doing it and your wheeling justifies it just do it !
I'm curious, what's the rationale behind the additional air tank?