third member pumpkin out, what next??

[2fpower]

So while doing my front end rebuild I decided to pull the front third member and refresh the gasket and do a clean up on the inner axle housing.

The PO did a number on the birfs, no grease at all...https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/603785-front-axle-rust-lubricant.html, so I am wanting to check as much as I can....


I have the third on the bench. Anything I should do to it while it is out? Any adjustment or clearance checks?

125k on rig, last 10 offroad. Yes on lockers.

 

[Kernal]

ZUK (gearinstalls dot com) mentions in one thread how he tightened up the carrier bearing preload on a relatively low mileage differential. Maybe you could shoot him an email and/or pm and ask??

http://gearinstalls.com/freshen.htm

 

[LINUS]

On teardown, did you get good diff oil out the drain, or was there anything suspicious like metal slivers?

You could check the backlash with a paint pen, since you have it out as it is.

I know when I talked to Dan about regearing my set of e-locked diffs that he said it wasn't the place to do your 1st regear, as just the shim pack to get the gears set properly was $$$$ and that as exacting as e-locker ones were that it was better to just spend the money to have them regeared & reset by one of the Toy e-locker specialists - for me, justdifferentials.com (vendor on here) is just on the other side of the pass from me so I had 1 day shipping even though we both just paid for UPS Ground.

The guys over there had a few extras they put into a 3rd member (for $$, not bad though) that makes it a "install & forget it" type thing. But all that would only be worth it if you were regearing IMO.

 

[kidglove13]

Was there anything wrong with the diff before you removed it?

Do you have the tools to check any of the things on the diff?

If there was nothing wrong with it before you removed it I would not mess with it and put it back in.

If it aint broke dont fix it

 

[2fpower]

Was there anything wrong with the diff before you removed it?

Do you have the tools to check any of the things on the diff?

If there was nothing wrong with it before you removed it I would not mess with it and put it back in.

If it aint broke dont fix it

Nope, no special tools.

I only had it on the highway for about 4 hours when the bearings ceased, so do not know if there was any issues.

 

[2fpower]

On teardown, did you get good diff oil out the drain, or was there anything suspicious like metal slivers?

You could check the backlash with a paint pen, since you have it out as it is.

I know when I talked to Dan about regearing my set of e-locked diffs that he said it wasn't the place to do your 1st regear, as just the shim pack to get the gears set properly was $$$$ and that as exacting as e-locker ones were that it was better to just spend the money to have them regeared & reset by one of the Toy e-locker specialists - for me, justdifferentials.com (vendor on here) is just on the other side of the pass from me so I had 1 day shipping even though we both just paid for UPS Ground.

The guys over there had a few extras they put into a 3rd member (for $$, not bad though) that makes it a "install & forget it" type thing. But all that would only be worth it if you were regearing IMO.

I found about 3 metal shavings, so really not concerned too much. The fluid looked fine coming out of the case. I wish it had leaked out to the birfs as then there would be some grease or oil there!

 

[LINUS]

I'm with Kidglove then really - if it's that nice running & the miles are low llike that & the diff fluid looked good & there weren't metal shavings, I'd save the cash & just buy & replace the shaft seals anyhow so you don't get migrating fluid & grease later & call it good with a new 3rd gasket.

I'm pretty precautious & even I think you got a 3rd that'll give you great service for some time to come.

 

[gearinstalls.com]

I found about 3 metal shavings, so really not concerned too much. The fluid looked fine coming out of the case. I wish it had leaked out to the birfs as then there would be some grease or oil there!

Well, you could snug up the carrier bearing pre-load a bit. That involves removing the single 12mm bolt at the top of the 2 bearing caps.....mark the position of the 2 adjuster wheels(a pointy punch works nice).....tighten the "Pinion side" wheel perhaps 2 notches then do the same for the other side(has the ring bolts). If it did that rather easy then repeat for another 2 notches. That should do it. Yoy should not need to loosen the 4 17mm bearing cap bolts.

 

[Kernal]

So it's only the rear E-Locker that uses shims, correct?

 

[2fpower]

thanks

Well, you could snug up the carrier bearing pre-load a bit. That involves removing the single 12mm bolt at the top of the 2 bearing caps.....mark the position of the 2 adjuster wheels(a pointy punch works nice).....tighten the "Pinion side" wheel perhaps 2 notches then do the same for the other side(has the ring bolts). If it did that rather easy then repeat for another 2 notches. That should do it. Yoy should not need to loosen the 4 17mm bearing cap bolts.

Thanks for the advice. Sounds like a great advice. Thanks ZUK.

Here is the pics for anyone following along.

carrier bearing pre-load

 

[LINUS]

So it's only the rear E-Locker that uses shims, correct?

IIRC, yes - it's an adjusting nut on either side for the front ring gear - I see how my post was misleading though. But off the top of my head the adjusting nuts outside the side bearings in the front only are how you adjust unlike the shim pack for the rear.

If memory is bad, please anybody jump in & give me both barrels for misinformation.

 

[Pin_Head]

So it's only the rear E-Locker that uses shims, correct?

Correct (For FZJ80s)

 

[Tapage]

great write ups from Zuk .. thanks !

 

[2fpower]

Made my own tool to tighten the adjustment. Just one quick question.... are these both righty tighty?

THanks,

 

[Kernal]

On ZUK's web site his photos show tightening one side is righty tighty, got to assume they both tighten the same, but you could send him an email to confirm?? Can you take some photos of the tool you made up and how much slack you take out of the carrier bearings?

 

[Pin_Head]

They are both normal right hand threads that are righty tighty.

 

[2fpower]

sst

Here is the sst I made. one for each side. I just welded a large nut to the middle to torque.

 

[2fpower]

sst again

Ended up only moving it one notch tighter.

So, really not all that sloppy.

 

[Kernal]

Was that one notch on each side?

 

[2fpower]

Yes. One notch on each side.