Things TO-DO before GSMTR 2013

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RSHARPfzj80

Appalachia Cruisers
Joined
Mar 23, 2011
Threads
43
Messages
2,568
Location
Knoxville, Tn
1. Change the leaking output shaft seal on the transfer case
2. Change the leaking pinion seal on the rear diff
3. Haven't made it to #3 yet
 
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My list is pretty long still but I'll give the short version:

Finish installing 5 speed and duals (including drive shafts and cross member)
New starter and battery
Install rear shocks
Install LEDs
Hardware for rear springs

I'm sure I'm forgetting some stuff too...

Sent from another Galaxy
 
Long list
Finish regear
Finish wheel bearing replacement
Finish brakes
Install new coil overs and springs if the springs ever show up
Tires
Anything past that is gravy

Sent from my detachment from reality.
 
~~~New starter and battery~~~
Not a necessity, but look into AGM batteries if you haven't already. You might not need it quite as badly as I felt I did, but so far I'm very happy with mine. Helps in pretty much every aspect: Better starting, longer reserve, bombproof, recharges itself quickly, and excels greatly if you ever have a long winch pull.
 
Oh, and my list:

Rebuild rear diff from K2 carnage
Rebuild or replace Trail-Gear power steering pump
Flip tires on rims
And most importantly... Don't break anything else in the next 45 days!
 
Not a necessity, but look into AGM batteries if you haven't already. You might not need it quite as badly as I felt I did, but so far I'm very happy with mine. Helps in pretty much every aspect: Better starting, longer reserve, bombproof, recharges itself quickly, and excels greatly if you ever have a long winch pull.

I've been through about 4 Toyota batteries so I probably need to do something. I think my biggest problem right now is just because its been sitting so much. Need to drive it some and put some fresh gas in it.

Sent from another Galaxy
 
I think my biggest problem right now is just because its been sitting so much.
Another plus for the AGM: they don't discharge very fast compared to lead-acid. There's really only two cons that I can see so far: 1) They're 50-100% more expensive and 2) [The one I bought] only has a 3 year replacement warranty - no pro-rata after that.

Need to drive it some and put some fresh gas in it.
You definitely need to be driving it enough to not have to say that it needs "fresh gas"! :rolleyes:
 
Another plus for the AGM: they don't discharge very fast compared to lead-acid. There's really only two cons that I can see so far: 1) They're 50-100% more expensive and 2) [The one I bought] only has a 3 year replacement warranty - no pro-rata after that.

You definitely need to be driving it enough to not have to say that it needs "fresh gas"! :rolleyes:

Well I haven't driven it at all except for in and out of the shop and onto the trailer since November. Gotta put a trans in it before I can drive it tho.

Which battery do you have? Optima yellow top? I was already thinking about trying to find a deep cycle of some kind.

You know what would really help? Go wheeling more often! :doh:

Sent from another Galaxy
 
Gotta put a trans in it before I can drive it tho.
I can see how that might pose a problem. :doh:

Which battery do you have? Optima yellow top? I was already thinking about trying to find a deep cycle of some kind.
I researched the Optimas a lot as I already have had a red and a blue top - both big disappointments - and found out that reviews are still pretty mixed. But the big thing I took away from all my research is that Optimas, Yellow Tops in particular, are apparently made overseas now, not USA. Most people seem to think the quality turned downhill after that.

I went with a Duralast AGM from AutoZone - for a few reasons:
1) Price, of course, was a little less; ~$150
2) I get a military discount there and some rewards points too.
3) Biggest reason though is that in the unfortunate case that I do have a battery issue on a trip some day, I didn't want to have to fight to find a local Optima dealer and then to try to get it warrantied. Pretty sure AutoZones won't be hard to find and having to warranty their own product would be quick and easy.

You know what would really help? Go wheeling more often! :doh:
THIS!!! ^^^^ :clap:
 
I have run red tops in my 40 for years and had good service. I needed a aux battery for my 60 and read several bad reviews on the new yellow tops so I went with a sears platinum marine battery and it is working well. I bought it on sale and it was about the same price as a yellow top.
 
I got a pretty good connection at our local parts store. He said he could get me a yellow top for a pretty good price. I have heard mixed reviews about them as well. Not familiar with the Duralast version. I have heard good things about the Sears one.

Sent from another Galaxy
 
I got a pretty good connection at our local parts store. He said he could get me a yellow top for a pretty good price. I have heard mixed reviews about them as well. Not familiar with the Duralast version. I have heard good things about the Sears one.
If you can get a deal on a Yellow Top, more power to ya. However, keep in mind that if anything goes wrong and you need a replacement from a small town parts store, you'll likely be buying a whole new battery from them if they don't have a YT in stock; that was my biggest deciding factor.

I have heard good things about the Sears batteries as well but I believe they are still lead-acid batteries, not AGM. AGM's tend to have all the good features of L-A batteries, but are much more durable. Although, again, you're not quite as hard on your rig as I am nor is it on the trail quite as often (unfortunately). AGM's and Gel-Cells have no spillable liquids to speak of therefore are not affected by rollovers or even punctures. Yes, you can poke a hole completely through an AGM battery and it'll still work (from all I've read anyway; I hope to never find that out first hand).
 
If you can get a deal on a Yellow Top, more power to ya. However, keep in mind that if anything goes wrong and you need a replacement from a small town parts store, you'll likely be buying a whole new battery from them if they don't have a YT in stock; that was my biggest deciding factor.

I have heard good things about the Sears batteries as well but I believe they are still lead-acid batteries, not AGM. AGM's tend to have all the good features of L-A batteries, but are much more durable. Although, again, you're not quite as hard on your rig as I am nor is it on the trail quite as often (unfortunately). AGM's and Gel-Cells have no spillable liquids to speak of therefore are not affected by rollovers or even punctures. Yes, you can poke a hole completely through an AGM battery and it'll still work (from all I've read anyway; I hope to never find that out first hand).



I think Sears is offering AGM batteries now...
look at specs on this one...not cheap though.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...tive&cName=Batteries&sName=Car Batteriesmv=rr
 
I think Sears is offering AGM batteries now...
look at specs on this one...not cheap though.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...tive&cName=Batteries&sName=Car Batteriesmv=rr
So they are. Thanks Elbert. I think I recall seeing that now, but had forgotten about it (maybe because of the price? :o ) In truth though, that's not a bad price compared to mine because of the warranty. 4 year replacement then 100 months pro-rated - AWESOME warranty! I'd take that over an Optima in a heartbeat.

Sam - straight from that link: 135-hour long reserve capacity makes it ideal for luxury cars that have multiple battery-run applications (read "winches and lights"). Longer off-season storage time is a useful feature especially for show cars and classic cars (read "people that don't wheel much").
 
The sears platinum is an AGM. I have mine mounted on it's side.
 
I ordered one from my friend over at O'Reilly. It's an AGM but their house brand. 135 bucks vs the ~$200 for the poorly reviewed yellow top. I'm on your train of thinking Steve. There are O'Reillys all over the place.

Edit: Super Start Platinum AGM, 775 CCA.
 
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