Builds The White Trash - Chopped 80 tube bed AKA Proper Cupholders for Starbucks (5 Viewers)

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I love this thread. No f***s given.

Also, please keep the red side markers, Toyota got them right.
 
I love this thread. No f***s given.

Also, please keep the red side markers, Toyota got them right.

The markers are staying!! Well, one is. The other one is broken. But it will be replaced!!
 
Welp. Got the windshield in. For some reason I was really nervous to attempt this, but it was super easy. Time will tell if it worked. I welded some extra tabs around the windshield frame to give a little more surface area to glue to and to keep the windshield out of the cab if something were to go wrong.

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Oh and some bayud ayuss Ebay specials. It was a used OEM light for 60 bucks or a whole set of eurotrash lights for 70... ok, fine, I kind of like the clear lens look...

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For the front bumper: one bent horizontal tube on minimal (but beefy) brackets/ shackle tabs.

This picture ^ makes me wish mine coulda stayed white, too. My favorite thread in the boards, keep the posts comin' :beer:
 
For the front bumper: one bent horizontal tube on minimal (but beefy) brackets/ shackle tabs.

This picture ^ makes me wish mine coulda stayed white, too. My favorite thread in the boards, keep the posts comin' :beer:

Yea. I'm either going to copy yours or just use the trail gear Winch plate.

I'm also going to cut out all that s*** in front of the fenders that was behind the factory bumper.
 
Or paint that s*** behind the bumper black, so it just blends in. Guess you're not afraid of the saw, though.

My bumper is 2x6 .188 wall with a couple wedges cut out and bent back/ welded. The brackets are leftover 3/8 steel building "L" my buddy picked up from a construction site. I have a center piece cut but need to get it welded in place. I also have plans/ material for black HDPE end caps I was gonna bolt on but I don't mind the shadetree fab look for now.
 
I agree, cut out what you can. Actually, I just sliced it starting at the body mount and also the inner fender, bent them to fill the hole so mud did not go flying into the engine bay off the wheels. Did it like @jcardona1 . My pics should be in my Foo build.
 
I agree, cut out what you can. Actually, I just sliced it starting at the body mount and also the inner fender, bent them to fill the hole so mud did not go flying into the engine bay off the wheels. Did it like @jcardona1 . My pics should be in my Foo build.

If you wouldn't have tagged me I would have never seen this thread, I really thought it was about cupholders. But this thread is sweet! Following along as I'm still considering chopping mine.
 
If you wouldn't have tagged me I would have never seen this thread, I really thought it was about cupholders. But this thread is sweet!

Ya same here, It's like a stealth build thread!!!

There is probably tons of people wondering why there is 5 pages about stupid cupholders
 
If you wouldn't have tagged me I would have never seen this thread, I really thought it was about cupholders. But this thread is sweet! Following along as I'm still considering chopping mine.

Yea. I think a lot of people think that! haha. I guess the internet hides sarcasm too well.


I agree, cut out what you can. Actually, I just sliced it starting at the body mount and also the inner fender, bent them to fill the hole so mud did not go flying into the engine bay off the wheels. Did it like @jcardona1 . My pics should be in my Foo build.

Yup that's my plan. I'm going to cut slowly and see if I can't keep the bolts and weldnuts in the picture. That way I can still remove the inners if needed.
 
Ya same here, It's like a stealth build thread!!!

There is probably tons of people wondering why there is 5 pages about stupid cupholders

This is the 80 section. No one even thinks twice about it!! :meh:
 
Okay so now that I know this thread exists, can you simply cut off the back half of the roof and add a half roll cage? Or is the entire roof structure compromised requiring a full interior cage/reinforcement? This is what I've always envisioned doing.

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I am by no means an expert and have very very limited experience with hardcore/race scenarios.

I would want some type of cross bracing for the roof structure after you chop the back off. Something to resist being pushed over to the left or right and flattened. Also, most 80s, when rolled, tend to smoosh the front of the cab. I always imagine in a bad roll you could draw a line from your forward most structural rollbar to the front of the hood and assume the cab will flatten at LEAST that much.

With mine, I think I will put a pretty substantial rollbar behind me in the b-pillar area and triangulate it back to a bodymount and run it like that for a while. The final product will be an A-pillar cab bar that runs outside the body and down through the front fender. I'm 6'3" so I'm not crazy about having a bar in the cab near my head.

The rollcage idea has changed about 500 times since I started this endeavor.
 
Inspiration I hope? Your post made me remember this truck, yeah, not an LC, still cool. This was last winter, on a trail ride in Uwharrie. He bought the truck after rollover, put the cage on and the tarp over it and looked pretty sharp. I didnt take any other photos but the tube frame was attached to the A pillar.

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I am by no means an expert and have very very limited experience with hardcore/race scenarios.

I would want some type of cross bracing for the roof structure after you chop the back off. Something to resist being pushed over to the left or right and flattened. Also, most 80s, when rolled, tend to smoosh the front of the cab. I always imagine in a bad roll you could draw a line from your forward most structural rollbar to the front of the hood and assume the cab will flatten at LEAST that much.

With mine, I think I will put a pretty substantial rollbar behind me in the b-pillar area and triangulate it back to a bodymount and run it like that for a while. The final product will be an A-pillar cab bar that runs outside the body and down through the front fender. I'm 6'3" so I'm not crazy about having a bar in the cab near my head.

The rollcage idea has changed about 500 times since I started this endeavor.

Yeah I think you're right. An interior cage would probably be essential after removing most of the roof. The more I think about it, the more I think I should just chop like you did. I sure do love them early 4Runners

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Yup. Early 4runner is the main inspiration. I think I'll beef up the B-pillar with some plate and tube to act as a "roll bar" and stretch a large bikini over the rear cage and call it a day.
 
I am by no means an expert and have very very limited experience with hardcore/race scenarios.

I would want some type of cross bracing for the roof structure after you chop the back off. Something to resist being pushed over to the left or right and flattened. Also, most 80s, when rolled, tend to smoosh the front of the cab. I always imagine in a bad roll you could draw a line from your forward most structural rollbar to the front of the hood and assume the cab will flatten at LEAST that much.

With mine, I think I will put a pretty substantial rollbar behind me in the b-pillar area and triangulate it back to a bodymount and run it like that for a while. The final product will be an A-pillar cab bar that runs outside the body and down through the front fender. I'm 6'3" so I'm not crazy about having a bar in the cab near my head.

The rollcage idea has changed about 500 times since I started this endeavor.

Let me put it this way. Even with my roll cage frame and the big A bracing behind the pass seats that is welded to the frame, and the rear corners are bolted to the tub, close to the frame attachment points (no return to frame) I have had to adjust my tube doors so they would latch. The point is that I have had some twisting or movement. I think that an interior cage is needed and I will likely add A pillar returns the next time I take her under the knife.
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Let me put it this way. Even with my roll cage frame and the big A bracing behind the pass seats that is welded to the frame, and the rear corners are bolted to the tub, close to the frame attachment points (no return to frame) I have had to adjust my tube doors so they would latch. The point is that I have had some twisting or movement. I think that an interior cage is needed and I will likely add A pillar returns the next time I take her under the knife. View attachment 1253844 View attachment 1253845

I would not have expected that. even my wrinkly chopped body seems pretty sturdy. I guess hard wheeling/potholes/washboard/and general driving are a little tougher on a vehicle than sitting in a garage though...
 
I have always heard that the doors add rigidity to the vehicle, so I have assumed that missing those have made some of the issues I have.
 
Today I removed the PAIR valve and stuck the o2 sensors in the leftover holes. What a sweet mod. After messing around trying to remove the O2 sensors for about 2 hours I finally gave up and just cut both pipes so I could work on the bench rather than on my back. Hopefully next time I have to change an o2 sensor the nuts will be nuts rather than piles of rust.

I also got to work trimming up the front end a bit.

Nipped.
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Tucked. A little fine tuning. Some tack welds or a couple bolts and weld in s bit of sheet metal and it should be sealed up decent enough.
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Both sides. I think one of the new trail gear winch plates and a stubby bumper will work nicely.
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