The Wall of Shame

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Speaking of ROW imports, my CR BJ40 continues to reveal interesting choices made with another addition to the WoS. Rebuilding the doors at the moment. The passenger side window never rolled down all the way, I figured the bump stop was off or the crank misaligned somehow. Who knows, really. Well, looks like just a random square window was used to replace stock. Check out the curves on the bottom!? (The darker tint was a bit of a giveaway, in retrospect) Replacement window on the way and doors will be put back on just in time to take them back in a month or two for the summer.

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Speaking of ROW imports, my CR BJ40 continues to reveal interesting choices made with another addition to the WoS. Rebuilding the doors at the moment. The passenger side window never rolled down all the way, I figured the bump stop was off or the crank misaligned somehow. Who knows, really. Well, looks like just a random square window was used to replace stock. Check out the curves on the bottom!? (The darker tint was a bit of a giveaway, in retrospect) Replacement window on the way and doors will be put back on just in time to take them back in a month or two for the summer.

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Look forward to seeing stock when you get it. Most of us (myself included) have not seen the insides of the non-US late model vent window doors.

FWIW, I had a friend who said his window wouldn’t go down all the way. In the process of disassembling for examination, I discovered one of the regulator mounting screws was too long and the mechanism was hitting it!🤦🏻
 
Look forward to seeing stock when you get it. Most of us (myself included) have not seen the insides of the non-US late model vent window doors.

FWIW, I had a friend who said his window wouldn’t go down all the way. In the process of disassembling for examination, I discovered one of the regulator mounting screws was too long and the mechanism was hitting it!🤦🏻
This all started because a PO had put a wood screw in to hold one of the door handles. A hard shut of the door with the window down and the pointed end of the screw came in contact with the window and shattered it. That was the drivers side door. Passenger side has its own issues (see window above).
 
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Driveshaft bolt. One of 4, all the same.

101 math says if only part of the bolt has a shoulder, the part that has the shoulder should be used to connect the driveshaft flange to the differential flange, and the lockwasher should be on the side with the nut. Instead, the lockwashers here were underneath the head, giving up precious millimeters of bolt shoulder.☹️
 
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Driveshaft bolt. One of 4, all the same.

101 math says if only part of the bolt has a shoulder, the part that has the shoulder should be used to connect the driveshaft flange to the differential flange, and the lockwasher should be on the side with the nut. Instead, the lockwashers here were underneath the head, giving up precious millimeters of bolt shoulder.☹️
I have always seen driveshaft bolts with the washer under the bolt head, as shown above, all new from Toyota. Mini trucks, land cruisers, etc.
maybe to allow more clearence to get the nut off at the flange at the diff or t-case?

I am sure you have seen way more than me, but I have seen quite a few. I understand your concern with the shoulder.
 
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I have always seen driveshaft bolts with the washer under the bolt head, as shown above, all new from Toyota. Mini trucks, land cruisers, etc.
maybe to allow more clearence to get the nut off at the flange at the diff or t-case?

I am sure you have seen way more than me, but I have seen quite a few. I understand your concern with the shoulder.
Rob, to be clear, this is not a flange facing designed by the manufacturer, which not only spreads the load out more evenly, and for which the manufacturer accounted for in designing the length of the shoulder as well as the exact overall length of the bolt. This is an ordinary split washer that has been forced up against the head of the bolt by an installer without due consideration.
 
Rob, to be clear, this is not a flange facing designed by the manufacturer, which not only spreads the load out more evenly, and for which the manufacturer accounted for in designing the length of the shoulder as well as the exact overall length of the bolt. This is an ordinary split washer that has been forced up against the head of the bolt by an installer without due consideration.
Got it, did not even pay attention to that. Continue on... lol
 
I call this one The Beautiful Loser.
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On the outside, just a typical rebuild and desmog. But on the inside…
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Not only were both the idle jets and the power valve shellaced closed. Not only was the power piston frozen…BOTH the emulsifiers failed!😱
 
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Customer said it wouldn’t idle any more!😛
 
I’m calling this one pretzel logic. Customer can’t get the accelerator pump to squirt properly, and concludes that it needs a longer throw/shorter rod. Shortening method:
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If they’d even tried to look inside:
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Another first for me. I’ve seen rock hard boots, and tattered boots, but never a plunger boot folded over backwards. No way to tell if it was the right size to begin with.

What wasn’t surprising: it was from Columbia.🤦🏻
 
This came by the shop the other day for a second opinion (from another local shop) for what they thought (“needs a transmission rebuild, 1st gear synchronizer is gone, can’t get it into 1st gear!”),

1. Pedal would go right to the floor with almost no pressure

2. It was a 3-speed (first gear isn’t synchronized)
🤦‍♂️

3. They told me the owner just paid $30k for it from Gateway. And I believe him. Yes, that is two copper tubes brazed together


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What's Gateway?

Gateway Classic Cars, a chain of consignment dealerships. They usually always have a few POS 40’s on site.
 
This came by the shop the other day for a second opinion (from another local shop) for what they thought (“needs a transmission rebuild, 1st gear synchronizer is gone, can’t get it into 1st gear!”),

1. Pedal would go right to the floor with almost no pressure

2. It was a 3-speed (first gear isn’t synchronized)
🤦‍♂️

3. They told me the owner just paid $30k for it from Gateway. And I believe him. Yes, that is two copper tubes brazed together


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Judging from the later model column support and firewall brace with the single circuit master, it looks to be another offshore rig.

IIRC, that Pollux orange color was only used in 73 and 74.
 
Judging from the later model column support and firewall brace with the single circuit master, it looks to be another offshore rig.

IIRC, that Pollux orange color was only used in 73 and 74.

Definitely an offshore conglomerate of 71-74 stuff. Not a inch of original paint on it so who knows what color it was.
A big portion (maybe even 50%) of the 40 series that come through my doors are Non-US market. They’re great for business.
 
Definitely an offshore conglomerate of 71-74 stuff. Not a inch of original paint on it so who knows what color it was.
A big portion (maybe even 50%) of the 40 series that come through my doors are Non-US market. They’re great for business.
…and great fodder for this thread.😉
 
This came by the shop the other day for a second opinion (from another local shop) for what they thought (“needs a transmission rebuild, 1st gear synchronizer is gone, can’t get it into 1st gear!”),

1. Pedal would go right to the floor with almost no pressure

2. It was a 3-speed (first gear isn’t synchronized)
🤦‍♂️

3. They told me the owner just paid $30k for it from Gateway. And I believe him. Yes, that is two copper tubes brazed together


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so many things in the pics to look at
 
This came by the shop the other day for a second opinion (from another local shop) for what they thought (“needs a transmission rebuild, 1st gear synchronizer is gone, can’t get it into 1st gear!”),

1. Pedal would go right to the floor with almost no pressure

2. It was a 3-speed (first gear isn’t synchronized)
🤦‍♂️

3. They told me the owner just paid $30k for it from Gateway. And I believe him. Yes, that is two copper tubes brazed together


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