Exactly! 20 years, or 300,000 more miles! Thanks man
Builds The Texas Land Crusher Build Thread (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter NHouston
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- Thread starter
- #142
Tackled 2 little items last night.
First was a new trailer light wiring harness. Bought this one on e-trailer.com. Simple straightforward plug and play into the factory wiring harness. Highly recommend.
Second I finished my LED conversion for all my rear exterior bulbs. For the reverse lights I went with 7440 PFrans, superbrightleds.com for stop lights and tail lights (7443 CK Red LED), and LASFIT 7740 Amber LED’s with Canbus for rear turn lights. Pleased with the PFran’s and Superbright LED’s. For the turn signal bulbs with Canbus I am still getting some occasional and intermittent hyper flash. It only lasts a few seconds occasionally, but it bugs me enough with my OCD to do something about it. Ordered a LED relay on Amazon. Will get into the dash soon and take care of this once and for all.
DEWHEL 8-Pin 81980-50030 066500-4650 Electronic LED Flasher Assy Relay Fix For Lexus Scion or Toyota LED Turn Signal Light Bulbs
First was a new trailer light wiring harness. Bought this one on e-trailer.com. Simple straightforward plug and play into the factory wiring harness. Highly recommend.
Second I finished my LED conversion for all my rear exterior bulbs. For the reverse lights I went with 7440 PFrans, superbrightleds.com for stop lights and tail lights (7443 CK Red LED), and LASFIT 7740 Amber LED’s with Canbus for rear turn lights. Pleased with the PFran’s and Superbright LED’s. For the turn signal bulbs with Canbus I am still getting some occasional and intermittent hyper flash. It only lasts a few seconds occasionally, but it bugs me enough with my OCD to do something about it. Ordered a LED relay on Amazon. Will get into the dash soon and take care of this once and for all.
DEWHEL 8-Pin 81980-50030 066500-4650 Electronic LED Flasher Assy Relay Fix For Lexus Scion or Toyota LED Turn Signal Light Bulbs
- Thread starter
- #143
Got my LED relay installed this evening for my LED front/rear turn signal bulbs. No more hyper flash. Worked like a charm.
Ordered the LED relay off Amazon. Had to get under the dash and do some Land Cruiser yoga to access relay. Relay is attached to a metal clip that is bolted up under the dash on driver side. You have to unbolt bracket to really get access for unpluging the relay. A 10mm wrench got it off and got me access to the the relay. The metal bracket did not fit the new relay so I used a plastic zip tie to secure new relay.
Ordered the LED relay off Amazon. Had to get under the dash and do some Land Cruiser yoga to access relay. Relay is attached to a metal clip that is bolted up under the dash on driver side. You have to unbolt bracket to really get access for unpluging the relay. A 10mm wrench got it off and got me access to the the relay. The metal bracket did not fit the new relay so I used a plastic zip tie to secure new relay.
- Thread starter
- #144
The on to the next little project this evening. Added a BlueSea 4.8A USB charger on the rear of the console so 2nd row passengers (my kiddos) can charge their electronics on trips.
- Thread starter
- #146
I did. It will only be for used for kids charging electronics. If that changes I will reconfigure to other power source.
- Thread starter
- #147
Changed my front driver door lock actuator this weekend. Went with an Aisin Lock Actuator.
My OEM switch got a good cleaning. Previously it had acted up a few times on me. The cleaning fixed my issue. Bought an aftermarket replacement switch from Switch Doctor, however it was junk. It would not allow my auto window down/up to function correctly. Glad all is well now with my OEM master switch because new ones are $$$$ if you can find them.
Also my driver window is quite slow. While I was changing door lock actuator I cleaned and lubed (white silicone) my window runs and tracks. Used a cotton swab on a stick (found these in a big pack at Northern Tool). These swabs could me in various sizes in the pack and are great for these misc. type jobs. The clean and lube helped, but I think my door motor is old and tired. Going to look into rebuilding or replacing if I can find a decent price on an OEM motor.
My OEM switch got a good cleaning. Previously it had acted up a few times on me. The cleaning fixed my issue. Bought an aftermarket replacement switch from Switch Doctor, however it was junk. It would not allow my auto window down/up to function correctly. Glad all is well now with my OEM master switch because new ones are $$$$ if you can find them.
Also my driver window is quite slow. While I was changing door lock actuator I cleaned and lubed (white silicone) my window runs and tracks. Used a cotton swab on a stick (found these in a big pack at Northern Tool). These swabs could me in various sizes in the pack and are great for these misc. type jobs. The clean and lube helped, but I think my door motor is old and tired. Going to look into rebuilding or replacing if I can find a decent price on an OEM motor.
- Thread starter
- #148
Love my 99, but one thing that always has bugged me is the lousy range I get with my remote door lock. I get maybe 5-10 feet range with fresh batteries. Very frustrating.
It turns out the Remote Door Control Reciever Box is mounted under the dash on the drivers side surrounded by a bunch of metal. The antenna is located inside this box. This is the reason why our remote control range is so poor. Box needs to be located higher and away from less metal.
@Ayune came up with a genius idea on this site to modify the Remote Door Control Receiver Box (151300-5816). He and then a few others after them got ranges to 100 feet plus.
I wanted to move my Remote Door Control Reciever Box to a better location (up higher and less metal surrounding). The best place in my opinion was mounted vertically up high right behind my radio. To do this I would need to find and source proper connectors to make an extended plug and play wiring harness. It turns out the connectors for this box is the same as some earlier year Toyota radios. I was able to find the correct connectors made by Metra (see pics below). @Ayune was nice enough to help me build a custom 6 foot plug and play harness for my project.
Got box mounted right behind radio using some zip ties. Mounted box to large metal bar right behind radio. You will want to put some felt on the back of the box to stop and vibration or noise.
Got everything hooked up and now I have 55-60 FEET!!!
It turns out the Remote Door Control Reciever Box is mounted under the dash on the drivers side surrounded by a bunch of metal. The antenna is located inside this box. This is the reason why our remote control range is so poor. Box needs to be located higher and away from less metal.
@Ayune came up with a genius idea on this site to modify the Remote Door Control Receiver Box (151300-5816). He and then a few others after them got ranges to 100 feet plus.
I wanted to move my Remote Door Control Reciever Box to a better location (up higher and less metal surrounding). The best place in my opinion was mounted vertically up high right behind my radio. To do this I would need to find and source proper connectors to make an extended plug and play wiring harness. It turns out the connectors for this box is the same as some earlier year Toyota radios. I was able to find the correct connectors made by Metra (see pics below). @Ayune was nice enough to help me build a custom 6 foot plug and play harness for my project.
Got box mounted right behind radio using some zip ties. Mounted box to large metal bar right behind radio. You will want to put some felt on the back of the box to stop and vibration or noise.
Got everything hooked up and now I have 55-60 FEET!!!
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- Thread starter
- #149
Some more pics for reference and materials used
- Thread starter
- #150
Last weekend I swapped out my driver door lock actuator.
While I was in there I cleaned my OEM master switch and cleaned/lubed my window runs and tracks. Window speed wasn’t as good as I hoped for so I picked up a new OEM window motor.
Got the motor swapped out, everything cleaned/lubed, and put back in correctly. Window operation is back to new again.
While I had driver door panel off I installed Noico Butyl 80 mil sound deadening mat. I plan to do other doors soon.
Got a great deal recently on the Infinity 6030cs speakers with crossover for front doors. Got new 6 1/2” speaker, tweeter, and crossover installed. Really pleased with these speakers.
Hopeing to get to passenger door next.
While I was in there I cleaned my OEM master switch and cleaned/lubed my window runs and tracks. Window speed wasn’t as good as I hoped for so I picked up a new OEM window motor.
Got the motor swapped out, everything cleaned/lubed, and put back in correctly. Window operation is back to new again.
While I had driver door panel off I installed Noico Butyl 80 mil sound deadening mat. I plan to do other doors soon.
Got a great deal recently on the Infinity 6030cs speakers with crossover for front doors. Got new 6 1/2” speaker, tweeter, and crossover installed. Really pleased with these speakers.
Hopeing to get to passenger door next.
I’ve always appreciated your attention to detail. I would feel more comfortable buying this truck then almost anything out there pre-owned.
Looking forward to your thoughts on the infinity speakers. They make a great product. Was the install straight forward? Are you going to run an auxiliary amp?
- Thread starter
- #154
Thanks so much Bozncsurf. Not running an auxiliary amp currently. Replaced my radio headunit over the holidays and will be replacing factory speakers soon. I will see how I like the outcome first before bypassing my factory amp and upgrading to an aftermarket. The Infinity speakers I installed on my driver door sound really good to me.
I followed @Arya Ebrahimi thread on my front door speaker install. He used the same Infinity speakers as me.
I used the Metra brackets and connectors for my install (see pic). This made install a breeze.
The harness is just a 1:1 extension of the existing connectors, so pin 1 goes to pin 1, 2 to 2, etc.
The tricky part is the male Metra assembly (70-8112) doesn't come with enough pins installed so you need to order two to be able to harvest enough pins for one complete extension harness. The female assembly (71-8112) is also missing two pins, but they are coincidentally not used on the Remote Box harness (pic below) so there's no need to populate them. Then you strip & solder & heat shrink & wrap.
As far as road noise, did you notice any dramatic difference with the sound deadening mats?
- Thread starter
- #157
Have just done my driver door so far, but it does seem to make a difference. Plan on doing other doors next and hopefully flooring. Maybe roof one day soon.
Those infinity’s are great. I paired them with rear infinity coaxial speakers, and this amp. I had a 12” sub but gave it away. I purchased a 6” sub for rear, just need to connect to amp.
They handle power really well and sound clear.
Soundstream TN5.950D 950W... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CICTR2K?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
They handle power really well and sound clear.
Soundstream TN5.950D 950W... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CICTR2K?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Its beyond amazing at this point. Man. Great job. Hey hows it sound after that deadening mat?
Strange, I've always gotten crazy range on my key remote. It always amazed me. And when I want even more range, the good 'ole holding it up against my chin while pushing the button usually gets it for me. I replace the damn key shell every 3 years or so it's such a design flaw. I've wanted to find someone to create a custom billet version but have never looked into it. Thanks for posting all the door issues. I have all of them too! I have new motors to refurbish my lock actuators, need to get new window motor(s), and want to replace the speakers. All my wood trim needs replacing so I'm working on that as well. I'm not excited about the options all of them feel rubbery instead of hard like original. I just had my steering wheel re-wrapped and it's friggin awesome. Feels like I'm driving a brand new truck...crazy! Smells awesome too...new car leather smell. I will post that on a steering wheel thread.
