Send Engnbldr an email about that piston. They'll fix it for ya.
The Smoke Monster's Engine Rebuild Thread (1985 22R-E)
- Thread starter The Eradicator
- Start date
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- 22re rebuild rebuild engine
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- Thread starter
- #22
Three of the pistons and rods are in. I stopped because I noticed that there is some front to back play on the rod ends. All three of the rods that I have put on have plastiguaged at right in the middle of the new specifications (.0015 in). They are all torqued to 46ft-lb. Here is a video of the play:
Is this movement normal?
Is this movement normal?
I rebuilt my 22RE from 1992 pickup because it had 200K miles on it and ran great but didn't have much power. When I got it apart I considered just reaming the bores and putting in new rings, but decided to take it to my local machine shop for the full process ( thanks to God that I found a good machine shop through my work). While I was waiting for the block, I polished the head and intake manifold ports just for the heck of it. Also changed the timing set, oil and water pump. Now it runs like new and I hope I'm alive when it has 400K. I've rebuilt lots of small British and Japanese engines, and for me the 22RE is the best by a landslide. Good idea to have the head pressure tested just to make sure nothing is leaking. With the motor out you might consider replacing the tranny mounts since they have a way of wearing out.
- Thread starter
- #24
Thanks for the advice. New transmission/transfer case mount along with shifter seat and socket on the way from Marlin Crawler.
I have been slacking in keeping this thread up to date. The answer to my question about the play in the connecting rods is that it is the connecting rod thrust clearance and it is within specification.
Regarding the damaged piston, engnbldr told me that it would be fine if it was filed down slightly, but if I wasn't comfortable doing that they would replace it. I took it to my machine shop to get a second opinion and he filed it down for me.
Piston damage after filing (scuffs are barely noticable):
Pistons and connecting rods all assembled:
Plastigage on connecting rod journal:
Bottom end torqued down:
Homemade thread chaser for the head bolt threads:
I have been slacking in keeping this thread up to date. The answer to my question about the play in the connecting rods is that it is the connecting rod thrust clearance and it is within specification.
Regarding the damaged piston, engnbldr told me that it would be fine if it was filed down slightly, but if I wasn't comfortable doing that they would replace it. I took it to my machine shop to get a second opinion and he filed it down for me.
Piston damage after filing (scuffs are barely noticable):
Pistons and connecting rods all assembled:
Plastigage on connecting rod journal:
Bottom end torqued down:
Homemade thread chaser for the head bolt threads:
- Thread starter
- #25
The cold start injector only had about 100 miles on it since I cleaned it. That is a lot of gunk for only 100 miles of driving:
Felpro headsaver shim installed (I used copper coat gasket compound on the block side of the shim):
Part of the shim I trimmed off since the timing cover was not machined:
Head gasket in place:
Crankshaft gear timing mark:
Felpro headsaver shim installed (I used copper coat gasket compound on the block side of the shim):
Part of the shim I trimmed off since the timing cover was not machined:
Head gasket in place:
Crankshaft gear timing mark:
- Thread starter
- #26
Cam timing mark:
Apparently the new metal timing chain guide is thicker than the old plastic one, so the timing cover wouldn't fit because someone had welded up the inside of it before. A little time with the grinder:
With some stuff bolted on:
And that catches the thread back up. Now I am waiting for packages from Marlin and Beno.
Apparently the new metal timing chain guide is thicker than the old plastic one, so the timing cover wouldn't fit because someone had welded up the inside of it before. A little time with the grinder:
With some stuff bolted on:
And that catches the thread back up. Now I am waiting for packages from Marlin and Beno.
You didn't want to put a 3.4 in instead?
The amount of work for a 3.4 into a 22re IMHO isn't worth it. By the way it looks good!
Glad to see your build is going as planned. I haven't fully rebuilt a 4cyl in awhile. These pictures bring me back man! I would have chose to rebuild the stock motor over ANY conversion.
Really? I was under the impression that it almost bolts right in except for the wiring part.
- Thread starter
- #31
I don't think that it is does in the first gen. I think that it is an easier swap in the second gen 4Runners. I've worked on and drove the 3.4 v6 before and it is a great engine (and a lot of fun to drive), but I love the simplicity of the 22RE.
With a 3.0 it's a little easier, still some repinning to do. With a 22re you need a different transmission and other things. That's why most 3.0's go to 3.4 and 22re to a 3rz
- Thread starter
- #33
I made an interesting discovery while cleaning up the old pistons. One of the pistons appears to have been replaced. OEM piston on the left:
Parts hung on wall:
Parts in from beno and marlin:
Looks like the timing chain has been hitting the bottom of the valve cover baffle:
Parts hung on wall:
Parts in from beno and marlin:
Looks like the timing chain has been hitting the bottom of the valve cover baffle:
- Thread starter
- #34
Old baffle gasket was cracked and missing chunks:
Holes tapped and bolts in:
Valve cover on:
Old clutch fork clip is broken:
New fork next to old:
Holes tapped and bolts in:
Valve cover on:
Old clutch fork clip is broken:
New fork next to old:
- Thread starter
- #35
New throwout bearing, transmission input seal, clutch fork, and fork boot installed:
New transfer case mount (looks like lipstick on a pig):
Old transfer case mount:
Almost ready to be dropped in:
Flywheel installed:
New transfer case mount (looks like lipstick on a pig):
Old transfer case mount:
Almost ready to be dropped in:
Flywheel installed:
- Thread starter
- #36
Hook from SimplyTanner was much more convenient and safer than a ratchet strap around the block:
How it sits now:
How it sits now:
Oh man, you have got to be itchin' to fire that beast up!!! Looks good man!
- Thread starter
- #38
It's alive! It did have a code 12 (knock sensor), but replacing the wire fixed it. Now I need to get it to the exhaust shop to get the exhaust welded back together.
- Thread starter
- #39
Looks like I have a leaking freeze plug. It is the one in the middle on the driver's side. I think I'm going to have to take the exhaust manifold off to get to it. New one has been ordered and should be here Monday.
- Thread starter
- #40
Turns out that the leak is a cracked block and not a freeze plug
. I talked to the machinist and he recommended stop-leak. Looks like I need to find a new block and machine shop. I was hoping to that the next rebuild on this engine would be in 400,000 miles not 4 miles.
. I talked to the machinist and he recommended stop-leak. Looks like I need to find a new block and machine shop. I was hoping to that the next rebuild on this engine would be in 400,000 miles not 4 miles.