The Smoke Monster's Engine Rebuild Thread (1985 22R-E) (1 Viewer)

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Sep 29, 2014
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Location
Fayetteville, AR
My 1985 4Runner received the name "Smoke Monster" because of how much oil it burned (1qt/100 miles). This is the first time I have pulled an engine.

The smoke monster:
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Starting to disassemble engine:
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Upper intake removed:
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Oil pooled in intake:
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I have skinny arms, so I was able to reach behind the engine with a box wrench to get to the 17mm transmission bolts.
Pulling engine:
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I would ditch the tiny ratchet strap and opt for a chain!
 
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On stand:
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Two of the injector's in holes are clogged like this (they will be sent to witch hunter for cleaning):
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Clogged coolant drain:
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Removing stuff:
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I would ditch the tiny ratchet strap and opt for a chain!
The engine is missing the hook on the rear, so we had to use a ratchet strap around the block for the rear. We did use a chain on the front because it still had the hook. I am going to find a hook for the rear before putting the engine back in.
 
I have many if you need one. Probably other things you may need to. Just ask man. Here's my biggest two cents, learned it at 16yrs old but it still applies: on your first motor pull you will eventually find yourself in the driver seat making engine noises and going through the gears. Do Not be tempted to step on the clutch and then wonder why you can't stab the motor later!!
 
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Coolant passage on top of block:
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New head gasket from Onur:
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Pistons removed:
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Broken ring on #1 piston:
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I have many if you need one. Probably other things you may need to. Just ask man. Here's my biggest two cents, learned it at 16yrs old but it still applies: on your first motor pull you will eventually find yourself in the driver seat making engine noises and going through the gears. Do Not be tempted to step on the clutch and then wonder why you can't stab the motor later!!
Thanks for the tip. I turned 16 a little under a month ago. I will send you a pm regarding the hook.
 
#3 Rod bearing was the worst:
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This is where I am currently. Ready to take to the machine shop tomorrow:
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I haven't checked shipping yet. But I will try and get to it today.
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Thanks. I am missing the hook, bolt, and ground cable, so that will work great. Just dropped the head, block, crankshaft, and flywheel off at the machine shop. Should be ready to pick up by the middle of next week.
 
I pulled the head on my 94 only to find electolysed water jackets that will never be sealed by a gasket, so check the water jacket ports to make sure they are not corroded. Also have the block magnufluxed for cracks. mine has a crack in the water jacket between #3 and 4. hoping some JB weld will do the trick...
 
Go in to pick up the block and head tomorrow. Been cleaning stuff while they were in the machine shop. I also backflushed the heater core. I couldn't get the inside of the upper intake manifold clean, so I am going to take it into the machine shop to be hot tanked. Block had to be decked, bored, crankshaft turned, and head surfaced. The machinist said that I will need to use a head shim. Injectors should be back from witch hunter tomorrow.

Random odds and ends rigged together to flush heater core:
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Flywheel after being machined:
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Clogged port on the driver's side of the upper intake manifold:
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Cleaned up lower intake manifold:
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Everything is back from machine shop. Block is decked .020 in, bored .020 in, crankshaft rod surfaces turned .030 in, and crankshaft main surfaces turned .020 in. Just ordered the rebuild kit from engnbldr including a water pump and a 261C camshaft. Ordered Aisin clutch kit and transmission input seal from low range offroad. Machine shop recommended that I use a head shim, but engnbldr recommended that I use an adjustable cam gear. Any opinions on this? I am leaning towards the head shim mainly because of price ($20 vs $90).

Injectors back from witch hunter:
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Block:
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Stove cleaner and pressure washer did the trick on the upper intake manifold:
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Any plans to pop out those freeze plugs and put in new ones? You'll be surprised how much crud is behind them. I'm surprised the machine shop didn't pop them out.

This is also an excellent opportunity to install a block heater. I'm really glad I put one in mine.
 
Yes, new freeze plugs are on the way from engnbldr. Will I need to use any sealant on the new freeze plugs?
 
I used the same ones, they fit nicely, I used a bushing driver to set them flush. A machinist friend told me about Permatex Indian Head Shellac, it's what he uses. I read about it on a few forums as well. It comes in a small bottle with an applicator wand. You smear it around the edge of the plug, let it dry for a few minutes, then tap them in. No leaks.
 
Is this piston ok to run? I just pulled it out of the box from engnbldr and noticed that it is damaged.
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Got the parts in from engnbldr (rebuild kit and camshaft), low range offroad (clutch kit and transmission input seal), and SimplyTanner (rear hoist hook with a new bolt and new ground wire).
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Plastigage on the main bearings showed a little under .020" on all of them.
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Crankshaft in place and torqued down (it spins easily):
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Conrods with new wrist pin bushings installed:
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