I wouldn't mess with the lower gears in the nv4500 with a 4bt 40" 4.56 there is plenty of low range. 35" stock fzj80 4.10 keep the 1st gear that you might use occasionally on the road vs never on the chevy version. i've had both.
The Overland Tractor - '93 Beige Metallic 6BT/NV4500 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Will Van
- Start date
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maxamillion2345
Franken-80
Honestly, if you’re geared right you probably won’t use 1st gear on the road mostly.
Who is making your transfercase adapter? Im doing the same project as we speak. I have a few more parts to collect for the cummins rebuild, then collecting parts for the conversion.
I am starting this build thread to document my 6BT/NV4500 swap into my 3x locked 1993 beige metallic FZJ80.
I am just wrapping up a bunch of preventative maintenance on the 1FZ-FE, and I've decided to go ahead and start collecting parts for my Cummins 5.9 6BT swap (while I enjoy the fruits of my preventative maintenance labor). Basically, drive the crap out of my 1FZ-FE and take my time putting my 6BT/NV4500 build together. Then hopefully be able to move quickly once I pull the 1FZ-FE and start the swap.
Rather than high-jack another member's 6BT build thread, I created my own thread to document the process, ask questions, and pitch ideas.
I purchased a basic swap kit from a reputable vendor that I actually believe will deliver my parts. I hope to have the transmission to transfer case plate, engine mounts, trans mount, wiring harness, A/C lines, throttle bracket, and a few misc items delivered over the next few weeks.
I'm still shopping for a Cummins 5.9 12 valve with p-pump, and an NV4500 HD trans.
I also purchased a new 2WD Dodge output shaft to machine to the Toyota 19-spline t-case input (no spud-shaft here!).
Similar to this...
NV4500 to HF2AV Open Source Adapter Plans
I am starting this build thread to document my 6BT/NV4500 swap into my 3x locked 1993 beige metallic FZJ80.
I am just wrapping up a bunch of preventative maintenance on the 1FZ-FE, and I've decided to go ahead and start collecting parts for my Cummins 5.9 6BT swap (while I enjoy the fruits of my preventative maintenance labor). Basically, drive the crap out of my 1FZ-FE and take my time putting my 6BT/NV4500 build together. Then hopefully be able to move quickly once I pull the 1FZ-FE and start the swap.
Rather than high-jack another member's 6BT build thread, I created my own thread to document the process, ask questions, and pitch ideas.
I purchased a basic swap kit from a reputable vendor that I actually believe will deliver my parts. I hope to have the transmission to transfer case plate, engine mounts, trans mount, wiring harness, A/C lines, throttle bracket, and a few misc items delivered over the next few weeks.
I'm still shopping for a Cummins 5.9 12 valve with p-pump, and an NV4500 HD trans.
I also purchased a new 2WD Dodge output shaft to machine to the Toyota 19-spline t-case input (no spud-shaft here!).
Similar to this...
NV4500 to HF2AV Open Source Adapter Plans
Hi Will,
I'm looking forward to following your build. I'm planning to build my motor mounts myself. Do you have a diagram and dimension on the motor mounts that you could share?
Will Van
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #26
Small update - I received a care box from @beno! It's the full Toyota clutch pedal bucket and assembly. Lots of miscellaneous bushings, springs, clips, and sleeves that I would never be able to piece together myself. Waiting on a used MT brake pedal to ship from Canada since they are NLA from Toyota.
I also got my high-mount accessory bracket. It is from Screamin Seeman Off Road and utilizes a Sanden U4666 A/C compressor and a Delco Remy 28SI series alternator. Versions of both are readily available at your local parts store. The alternator comes in a 215 amp version and is used on heavy duty Ford trucks and Freightliner tractor-trailers. It's also internally regulated to match the Toyota chassis. Since the bracket mounts the A/C compressor up high, I have plenty of room along the frame rail to run the lower radiator hose. Several people have gotten the OEM accessory bracket to work, but it placed the lower hoses at really awkward/tight angles. Not a problem with this setup.
Finally, since the bracket uses U4666 Sanden A/C compressors, I can convert to conventional #8 and #10 O-ring A/C fittings utilizing Joey's new A/C adapters.
I also got my high-mount accessory bracket. It is from Screamin Seeman Off Road and utilizes a Sanden U4666 A/C compressor and a Delco Remy 28SI series alternator. Versions of both are readily available at your local parts store. The alternator comes in a 215 amp version and is used on heavy duty Ford trucks and Freightliner tractor-trailers. It's also internally regulated to match the Toyota chassis. Since the bracket mounts the A/C compressor up high, I have plenty of room along the frame rail to run the lower radiator hose. Several people have gotten the OEM accessory bracket to work, but it placed the lower hoses at really awkward/tight angles. Not a problem with this setup.
Finally, since the bracket uses U4666 Sanden A/C compressors, I can convert to conventional #8 and #10 O-ring A/C fittings utilizing Joey's new A/C adapters.
Subscribed!!!
davidp14
SILVER Star
Looking forward to seeing more of your great work.
What are you doing with the old 1fz-fe?
What are you doing with the old 1fz-fe?
Isn't their a cam gear bolt or something that tends to back out on older 6bt motors?
I think so, but someone with more knowledge please correct or confirm that
yep, the 'killer dowel pin', near the timing gears:
5.9L 12v Cummins Killer Dowel Pin (KDP) Information
I just did the KDP fix this weekend on my build. The pin had to be smacked back flush using a brass drift before I could get the DIY metal tab over it. It’s real easy to check and do with nothing around the engine. Good time to reseal the front main and timing cover.
Dirty Koala
SILVER Star
Definately make a little tab with a bolt hole in it to lock that dowel pin in. If you don't and it pops out, it will take out your timing case at a minimum.
You don’t see too many with the valve cover plate still attached.
Will Van
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #36
There is an extension housing bolted on the back of the 6BT block that houses the flywheel/flex-plate. I’m not sure what it is called. Does anyone know if they are different between manual and automatic?
I bought a ‘96 auto motor, and I was just planning on swapping over to an upgraded SouthBend clutch and flywheel. Dunno if I need to swap the housing too.
Also, what is this for?
I bought a ‘96 auto motor, and I was just planning on swapping over to an upgraded SouthBend clutch and flywheel. Dunno if I need to swap the housing too.
Also, what is this for?
There is an extension housing bolted on the back of the 6BT block that houses the flywheel/flex-plate. I’m not sure what it is called. Does anyone know if they are different between manual and automatic?
I bought a ‘96 auto motor, and I was just planning on swapping over to an upgraded SouthBend clutch and flywheel. Dunno if I need to swap the housing too.
Also, what is this for?
I can't answer your question about the clutch and swapping the housing extension. But that hole you were talking about it is an access hole for the bolts for the flexplate/converter.
Barring tool is used in the smaller hole. It's used to turn the engine over if you need to get to TDC. I always use the alternator nut to turn it over as it's much easier since you can see the valves. The flywheel/clutch housing should be the same for auto or manual. Downfall for getting an auto engine is you will be down 30hp to start with.
maxamillion2345
Franken-80
Bellhousing adapter should be the same
