Build The Monkey is Back

[Chamba]

@Jdc1 does anyone know offhand whether the 4wd indicator and hand brake switch are negative or positive? I'll look it up later but was hoping someone here knows.....

That's something else not included in the Painless I've got to add.

 

[Jdc1]

@Jdc1 does anyone know offhand whether the 4wd indicator and hand brake switch are negative or positive? I'll look it up later but was hoping someone here knows.....

That's something else not included in the Painless I've got to add.

 

[Chamba]

View attachment 4024005

View attachment 4024006

Yes, but I think the Toyota one is a positive switch, yes? I assume I can simply reverse the switch and make the light constant power rather than constant ground. Can you think of any reason I can't do that?

My Painless didn't come with a 4wd wire sadly. But I'm running that now. That one I can run either way I reckon. But I'll keep it as a ground switch so it is the same throughout.

 

[Jdc1]

Yes, but I think the Toyota one is a positive switch, yes? I assume I can simply reverse the switch and make the light constant power rather than constant ground. Can you think of any reason I can't do that?

My Painless didn't come with a 4wd wire sadly. But I'm running that now. That one I can run either way I reckon. But I'll keep it as a ground switch so it is the same throughout.

I don’t see a problem with switching, I use my test leads to verify things like this. Don’t see ground blowing the switch. FWIW i’m not an electrician so test at your own risk lol.

 

[cruisermatt]

The locker switch is a standard Carling style rocker switch.

 

[Chamba]

The locker switch is a standard Carling style rocker switch.

Perfect. Thanks Matt. I found this:

 

[cruisermatt]

That might be for two of them side by side.

 

[knuckle47]

The image looks like a horizontal mount for 1 based on dimension. Used these on boats a lot..they’re good switches

 

[Chamba]

Some progress on the dash. Now it's ready to be wired to the new harness. The two blank spots will be filled with the Old Air heat/ air con switches I'm hoping.

With the new wiring, it requires different wiring for the HEI and the factory distributor. Given I already purchased the DUI HEI, I decided to install it on the bad engine so Matt can simply swap it over to the new engine (sorry Matt, I know you like the factory dizzy, but given I've already bought this it just makes sense.). I had the HEI in my LX and really liked the preformance gain. I also like how it cleans up the fender where the coil was.

I do like the idea of a factory dizzy, but that's going to require buying yet either dizzy.

 

[cruisermatt]

HEI dizzy.. gross

On the bright side there’s a BIG stack of parts piling up here!

 

[Chamba]

HEI dizzy.. gross

On the bright side there’s a BIG stack of parts piling up here!

Awesome! Has the H55/transfer rocked up yet? I can't wait to see that sexy beast all assembled.

I'm trying to get this damned wiring done so I can get it over to you early if you want it. But my job and kids keep getting in the way of my Cruiser time. Baby steps. Got home at 0400 this morning, but I'll try to get a bit done today.

 

[Living in the Past]

You going to run the stock transfer case gears or going with some lower gears?

 

[Chamba]

You going to run the stock transfer case gears or going with some lower gears?

Stock transfer case gears. I'm keeping the 4:11s and the H55 is something like 5.25 first (same as the H41). I've never really found that I needed much lower. I'm not planning on rock crawling this one (my rock crawling days are behind me). Just ghost town loops, forest service trails, etc. Between the rear locker and the 8274 I should be able to keep myself out of trouble. I'm after long term reliability.

 

[Chamba]

Out of sight is out of mind on these third world 'restorations'......

Almost everywhere I open up things which can't be seen by a camera, it's missing screws, clips and bits.

These rigs had the worst POs imaginable.

 

[Chamba]

I need to go through the wiring diagram tonight. But does anyone here know which of these wires to the turn signal/ high beam/ pass stick on the steering wheel gets constant power for the passing light? I think it's the red/yellow, which is the solid red on the wire to the switch (which I THINK is factory 40). The female side on my old harness is from the cobbled-together harness and it isn't from a Cruiser.

 

[Living in the Past]

I need to go through the wiring diagram tonight. But does anyone here know which of these wires to the turn signal/ high beam/ pass stick on the steering wheel gets constant power for the passing light? I think it's the red/yellow, which is the solid red on the wire to the switch (which I THINK is factory 40). The female side on my old harness is from the cobbled-together harness and it isn't from a Cruiser.

View attachment 4027751

I could check one of my turn signal switches on one of 8/80 columns I have. But wouldn't trust since the RHD and LHD have different switches.

Not a fan of solving wiring problem over the Internet. But I'll get it a shot. Move the switch to solid high beam (pushed towards the dash. Find two wires that have continuity. Move back to low beam to be sure it no longer has continuity. If it did find a way to hold the switch to flash mode. Find which one of the two wire that had continuity has continuity to another wire. That new wire is the one get constant power.

 

[Chamba]

My optimism was short-lived. I couldn't figure out the wiring as it didn't match the diagram. So I pulled the indicator mechanism off to trace the wires. It's been spliced and hacked too.......

So I'm checking each wire to see where the power goes. I'll check continuity as @Living in the Past suggested. I'm just going to have to hard wire the horn/ indicator/ high beam and ignition to the new harness as the Mad Splicer has replaced a number of the plugs.

 

[Chamba]

Back to work tomorrow. But on this break i mostly finished the inside wiring; of course I can't test it yet until the rest is done. So I've resisted looming everthing until I know it's all perfect. What I could test with a jumper wire works so far.... touch wood.

I also painted the steering wheel shield and column cover. This rig is missiing SO much hardware that I wish I had a parts rig just for missing bits. Very frustrating.

But the most irritating thing is that NONE of the screws and bolts are correct. Those Pakistani 'experts' simply grabbed whatever bolts fit for whatever they were doing. Many 6mm thread bolts are a 13mm head......

Even the steering wheel shield had incorrect screws attaching it. The steering column cover was glued together, not screwed. I'm slowly fixing it all, but every item I fix uncovers 2 more items needing fixing.

 

[Living in the Past]

I also painted the steering wheel shield and column cover. This rig is missiing SO much hardware that I wish I had a parts rig just for missing bits. Very frustrating.

But the most irritating thing is that NONE of the screws and bolts are correct. Those Pakistani 'experts' simply grabbed whatever bolts fit for whatever they were doing. Many 6mm thread bolts are a 13mm head......

Even the steering wheel shield had incorrect screws attaching it. The steering column cover was glued together, not screwed. I'm slowly fixing it all, but every item I fix uncovers 2 more items needing fixing.

Have you seen the 40 Series H55F top plate coming from Pakistan? They are identical to the H41/H42 top plates. The fifth gear shift position is above reverse line the regular H55F top plate. Only problem is reverse is in the same location as H41/H42.

 

[Chamba]

Have you seen the 40 Series H55F top plate coming from Pakistan? They are identical to the H41/H42 top plates. The fifth gear shift position is above reverse line the regular H55F top plate. Only problem is reverse is in the same location as H41/H42.

I haven't seen them. But honestly after dealing with my 43 I wouldn't cross the street to get something made in Pakistan.