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Build The Clustertruck Rides Again - Refurbishing a 1975 Chevota
- Thread starter RWBeringer4x4
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PixelWrangler, if I ever meet you in person, I owe you a beer.That's exactly what it was. I loosened up the throttle cable and it closed the gap between the throttle and the idle screw. I've got it idling smoothly at 800RPM now. I'm sure I can bring it down farther but I didn't have much time to mess with it tonight. Plus, it's raining and the exhaust fumes were making the garage uninhabitable.
Thanks for the help! Saved me going through a lot of trouble to figure that out!
Rick,
I'm happy to hear it was as simple as that! Like me, you've got bigger projects to tackle. It's nice to check off a pesky one though.
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- #123
Grille Mesh Issues...
Ok so this is another problem that is really going to irk me until I correct it.
My mesh grill was always sort of "free floating" between the bib and the radiator, not mounted properly. I pulled it this weekend to get a fresh coat of paint on it and mount it, and I learned why.
I appeared that I had a radiator mount on the passenger side that conflicted with the mesh. I cut a hole to accommodate the passenger-side mount. Then I bolted back up, and found that the solid piece around the edge of the mesh hits the radiator on the driver's side, and doesn't allow the bib to close completely.
It looks like if I backed the radiator up about 1/4" I'd be able to get the bib to close.
My guess is, because the V8 is mounted off-center to the driver's side, my radiator was moved over to compensate, thus creating the interference. I can't move the grille over because 1. It would look off-center and ridiculous and 2. the headlight buckets interfere.
So it sounds like my only option is to move my radiator back 1/4" - 1/2."
So, the questions:
1. Is there a distance between the radiator and fan that is considered "too close?" Obviously I don't want the movement of the engine to plow the fan into the radiator.
2. How does the radiator mount to the frame? I've looked around and it looks like there's just two bolts mounted down from the radiator channel into the front crossmember. Would it just be a matter of drilling 2 new holed for the radiator channel 1/4" behind the old ones?
Also - I'm not too familiar, but it looks like I might have a spacer behind that fan. Perhaps I could reduce it slightly to gain some space if I went to back up the radiator a little.
Ok so this is another problem that is really going to irk me until I correct it.
My mesh grill was always sort of "free floating" between the bib and the radiator, not mounted properly. I pulled it this weekend to get a fresh coat of paint on it and mount it, and I learned why.
I appeared that I had a radiator mount on the passenger side that conflicted with the mesh. I cut a hole to accommodate the passenger-side mount. Then I bolted back up, and found that the solid piece around the edge of the mesh hits the radiator on the driver's side, and doesn't allow the bib to close completely.
It looks like if I backed the radiator up about 1/4" I'd be able to get the bib to close. My guess is, because the V8 is mounted off-center to the driver's side, my radiator was moved over to compensate, thus creating the interference. I can't move the grille over because 1. It would look off-center and ridiculous and 2. the headlight buckets interfere.
So it sounds like my only option is to move my radiator back 1/4" - 1/2."
So, the questions:
1. Is there a distance between the radiator and fan that is considered "too close?" Obviously I don't want the movement of the engine to plow the fan into the radiator.
2. How does the radiator mount to the frame? I've looked around and it looks like there's just two bolts mounted down from the radiator channel into the front crossmember. Would it just be a matter of drilling 2 new holed for the radiator channel 1/4" behind the old ones?
Also - I'm not too familiar, but it looks like I might have a spacer behind that fan. Perhaps I could reduce it slightly to gain some space if I went to back up the radiator a little.
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Maybe not what you want to hear, but you may want to resolve what you are doing with that Lakewood bell housing before addressing the radiator
That said, Plenty of room for a shorter fan spacer
And a shroud would be next on my list.
That said, Plenty of room for a shorter fan spacer
And a shroud would be next on my list.
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- Thread starter
- #125
Maybe not what you want to hear, but you may want to resolve what you are doing with that Lakewood bell housing before addressing the radiator
That said, Plenty of room for a shorter fan spacer
And a shroud would be next on my list.
Totally agree with you - but I'm also looking at this from a financial perspective. Moving the radiator is something I can do in a weekend or so for a the cost of a fan spacer and my time. I'd probably go to a clutch fan and install a shroud at the same time.
Addressing the bellhousing and replacing all the clutch components is several hundred dollars in parts and a much more time consuming undertaking (I'll be resealing the transmission and rear main seal at the same time as well)
In short, I try to find small projects to keep me busy while I stockpile parts/money for the bigger projects.
For all intents and purposes the grille thing is purely aesthetic - but I need something to keep me busy!
Power steering is definitely up next though - all the parts are ready to go in.
I completely understand. My rig has about 2 decades worth of pay as you, go mod as needed, work around obsolete too big to change stuff on it. Right now it's been under the knife for a big undo button project for over two years. I miss it and am anxious to get it on the trail again.
FYI a fan clutch can use up 3-5 inches of depth from the water pump.
Looking forward to the PS install
FYI a fan clutch can use up 3-5 inches of depth from the water pump.
Looking forward to the PS install
Here is how what appears to be a stock radiator is mounted. Two bolts and two rods to hold the radiator frame in place:
- Thread starter
- #128
Thanks!
Looks like mine is currently held in place by 2 bolts and 1 rod, and they changed the location of the rod
Moving all this wont happen in the near future most likely, but it would be nice to mount the grille mesh properly.
The joys of conversion projects!
Looks like mine is currently held in place by 2 bolts and 1 rod, and they changed the location of the rod
Moving all this wont happen in the near future most likely, but it would be nice to mount the grille mesh properly.
The joys of conversion projects!
- Thread starter
- #129
Well, I spoke too soon. Went to start the truck today, and it wouldn't even idle. Fired right up (still fuel in the bowl, so the leak is cured) but immediately died unless I kept my foot on the gas. Did this for about 3 minutes, then it was back to its previous devious ways of idling at 1000RPM.
I can then tune the idle back down to 700RPM, but as soon as I hit the accelerator once, it pops back up to 1000RPM again, and stays there. Then, I turn the 40 off, turn it back on, and it's stumbling around 400RPM until I hit the gas an pop it back to 1000 again.
I'm going to try and find some time to take it to my girlfriend's dad's friend who knows a lot more about these things than I do, because I'm clearly beating a dead horse here!
I can then tune the idle back down to 700RPM, but as soon as I hit the accelerator once, it pops back up to 1000RPM again, and stays there. Then, I turn the 40 off, turn it back on, and it's stumbling around 400RPM until I hit the gas an pop it back to 1000 again.
I'm going to try and find some time to take it to my girlfriend's dad's friend who knows a lot more about these things than I do, because I'm clearly beating a dead horse here!
- Thread starter
- #130
Quadrajet Saga Update 4532545
Well, I took the Land Cruiser and associated Q-jet from h*ll down to my local carburetor guru (girlfriend's dad's friend) this morning. We made sure all the unused vacuum was plugged, did away with the PCV valve altogether, put in some larger breathers, and narrowed the problem down to a (very) sticky secondary linkage. Basically, the primary throttle was working properly but as soon as the secondaries actuated even a little, it would stick, and not return to idle. A can of carb cleaner, some penetrating oil, and a hammer to the linkage running from the primary shaft to the secondary shaft, and I THINK the idle issue is worked out.
Afterward, I fabbed up a new thicker, stronger clamp for the manual choke cable and assembled it properly. I can now choke the truck, but still no fast-idle cam action, just butterfly actuation.
Still no luck with cold starting. Engine fires up quickly, but wants to idle at about 200-300RPM and stall out until it has some heat running through it. Choke or no-choke. Once it warms up though, it sits nicely at about 750RPM and (finally) actually stays there! If anyone has any thoughts on the cold-start issues, I'm all ears!
The guy who did my carb work also provided me with a new, less crusty air cleaner and valve covers. Once I get the covers installed, the engine might look half respectable. The air cleaner is a big improvement! The valve covers are "tall" roller-rocker covers, so I'll need to make a new alternator bracket and find myself a longer belt to get the alternator out of the way.
Round trip for the clustertruck today, about 40 miles, which makes this trip the single longest I've dared since purchase, and the first time I ran it at sustained highway speeds (60-65MPH). The 283 handles 65MPH no sweat, about 2700RPM, engine stays nice and cool. Brakes are getting a little squirrelly (pulling to the left if not applied carefully). Steering is also wandering slightly. Power steering/all new tie rod ends/alignment scheduled for mid-June.
Well, I took the Land Cruiser and associated Q-jet from h*ll down to my local carburetor guru (girlfriend's dad's friend) this morning. We made sure all the unused vacuum was plugged, did away with the PCV valve altogether, put in some larger breathers, and narrowed the problem down to a (very) sticky secondary linkage. Basically, the primary throttle was working properly but as soon as the secondaries actuated even a little, it would stick, and not return to idle. A can of carb cleaner, some penetrating oil, and a hammer to the linkage running from the primary shaft to the secondary shaft, and I THINK the idle issue is worked out.
Afterward, I fabbed up a new thicker, stronger clamp for the manual choke cable and assembled it properly. I can now choke the truck, but still no fast-idle cam action, just butterfly actuation.
Still no luck with cold starting. Engine fires up quickly, but wants to idle at about 200-300RPM and stall out until it has some heat running through it. Choke or no-choke. Once it warms up though, it sits nicely at about 750RPM and (finally) actually stays there! If anyone has any thoughts on the cold-start issues, I'm all ears!
The guy who did my carb work also provided me with a new, less crusty air cleaner and valve covers. Once I get the covers installed, the engine might look half respectable. The air cleaner is a big improvement! The valve covers are "tall" roller-rocker covers, so I'll need to make a new alternator bracket and find myself a longer belt to get the alternator out of the way.
Round trip for the clustertruck today, about 40 miles, which makes this trip the single longest I've dared since purchase, and the first time I ran it at sustained highway speeds (60-65MPH). The 283 handles 65MPH no sweat, about 2700RPM, engine stays nice and cool. Brakes are getting a little squirrelly (pulling to the left if not applied carefully). Steering is also wandering slightly. Power steering/all new tie rod ends/alignment scheduled for mid-June.
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Glad to hear its running better.
- Thread starter
- #132
Better, but still not quite right...I think the issue is the choke/choke pulloff. I probably just haven't mastered the art of adjusting the mixture "on the fly." I'm also not sure how much sensitivity I get from the choke cable, it's sort of a "full open/1/2 open/full closed" ordeal. Now that the bowl isn't leaking, the engine fires up pretty quickly, it just stalls or tries to run at about 250RPM unless I stay on the gas.
- Thread starter
- #134
If actuating the choke isn't making the fast idle engage something isn't right. And hammers vs carb linkage should be avoided.
The choke cable is hooked through the outer part of the linkage. The linkage moves when you pull the cable, and actuates the butterfly on the top of the carburetor. The fast idle cam isn't moving with it. It also barely makes contact with the linkage that interfaces with the fast idle screw...I might be missing a piece to the choke linkage, since it was pretty "rigged." I can actuate the fast-idle cam by hand and I get a response, but it wont move on its own.
regarding the hammers and carb linkages: the linkage was very apparently "bowed" so I think hammering had been attempted before (I'm convinced my PO was actually an ape with a 5lb sledge and a welder). I like to think of what I did as "unhammering" as it now sticks less
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- #135
A couple shots of the choke - in case one of the Quadrajet gurus can see an obvious reason that the fast idle cam is non-functional. This is back before I cleaned the carb - no more recent pictures, so the angle is less-than ideal, I know...
What are you going to do about the badly warped air horn?
I am almost in the same boat as you, just ponied up the cash for a reman q-jet. Rebuilt my old carb, everything worked as should but just wouldn't run right. My primary throttle shaft needed bushings and I still needed to address the welch plugs.
Not that bent outta shape about it, the carb is very easy to tear apart and "rebuild" but the wear parts are what got me. At this point I would pay 500$ to have a reliably running 350. Nice having a friend who works at an auto parts store, got a reman for a little over two bills.
I am almost in the same boat as you, just ponied up the cash for a reman q-jet. Rebuilt my old carb, everything worked as should but just wouldn't run right. My primary throttle shaft needed bushings and I still needed to address the welch plugs.
Not that bent outta shape about it, the carb is very easy to tear apart and "rebuild" but the wear parts are what got me. At this point I would pay 500$ to have a reliably running 350. Nice having a friend who works at an auto parts store, got a reman for a little over two bills.
- Thread starter
- #138
Well, for the time being, the warp in the air horn doesn't seem to be causing me any problems (or maybe it's causing all my problems?) It does, however, worry me. Throttle shafts are fixable, secondary air valves are fixable, chokes too, but warpage pretty much means you're SOL.
In the long run, I may replace it - but my goal with buying a project vehicle was to learn how it works, and learn how to fix it. I like to mess with things until I fix them, or break them beyond repair, before jumping right to replacement parts. Kind of part of the hobby for me. Plus, for the time being, I've got bigger fish to fry. If it works "good enough" I'm going to let it ride until the bigger, more costly repairs are done.
The guy who was helping me with the quadrajet this weekend has about a dozen Holleys of various types sitting on a shelf in his pole barn in various conditions. Worst case scenario - I have a backup plan...
- Thread starter
- #139
No - the diagram was pretty generic. That said, I figured out the problem. Half the fast-idle cam is missing.
I thought it was strange that it would have a "gap" on the bottom side of the cam. Turns out it cracked at the hole that mounts it to the choke shaft, and the bottom of the mechanism is missing, along with the brass bushing in the middle. This includes the little arm that allows it to actuate with the rest of the choke mechanism. Found a replacement plastic Buick cam on e-bay, for $50.00.
Not sure how the metal Chevy ones would interact with the Buick mutations. In short, the "fast idle" cam will be my foot on the gas for the foreseeable future. I'll just have to tack on 5 minutes to every trip I take in the land cruiser to sit and warm it up.